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Desert_bird
Posted on Monday, May 08, 2017 - 01:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Reviving an old thread and a question related to installation of charcoal canisters to address gas smell/drippage:

http://www.badweatherbikers.com/cgibin/discus/show .cgi?290431/555117
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Desert_bird
Posted on Monday, May 15, 2017 - 02:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

For the record, and should anyone else want to attempt the routing process mentioned in the link cited above: I can attest from experience that it does NOT work. At least, not in a mix of commuting and highway driving in the high desert and with temperatures in the low 80's and above.

Routing from the canister to the air-box instead of to the throttle body was suggested as an easier way to accomplish the same goal and to improve re-start in warm conditions because recirculated fuel vapors enter both throttle bodies rather than just one.

This is why that is not a good solution. First. Fuel vapors simply collect in the canister, then drip out from there once the charcoal gets saturated - which is pretty quick when three gallons of gas is boiling away. This is because there is insufficient vacuum generated in the air-box to purge the canister when the motor is operating. If the canister is not being purged then fuel vapors collect in there and liquify. Once the canister reaches saturation then liquid fuel starts coming out of the large purge valve, and you have the same problem as de-canistered bikes. In fact, when on the highway, not only is there not vacuum, but POSITIVE pressure in the air-box from the ram air design actually pressurizes the canister and forces fuel to purge through the vent large vent valve, where liquid fuel actually drips out under the seat.
Not only that, but at the same time, there are enough fumes that do make it to the air box the motor is shut down and positive pressure pushed fumes into the air-box that they still impair startup. So the suggested solution does not solves fuel drip/smell, but its still results in sluggish warm weather startup.

Hence, the answer to my question "why didn't the bike come from the factory with the canister routed to the air-box," is simply "because it doesn't work that way! " The canister must be purged during normal running to work. It only purges with sufficient vacuum. On the 1125R that vacuum is only generated directly at throttle body.

Live and learn . . .


DB
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Stimbrell
Posted on Tuesday, May 16, 2017 - 05:25 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I run my canister direct to air, no vacuum at all and it is a big improvement with hardly any smell or drips however I can count on one hand the number of days in a year we will see temps in the 80s.
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