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Redman1125r
Posted on Thursday, April 20, 2017 - 11:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hey gang, 08 1125r. I'm not happy with the placement of my hands/bars on my bike. I finally figured out what I don't like about it and why the front end just feels "wrong" to me. It's that the bars attach to the top triple clamp a good inch in front of the tubes. Since they're cast into the top trees there's no adjustment and no way to bring the bars back up against the tubes.
Aside from having a good CNC machine shop make a custom top tree what the heck can I do? I have seen some 1125CRs that have top trees with handlebar clamps but other photos show the bar arrangement as my r. If I get the fork tubes up high enough above the top trees to use regular "clip-ons" my rake will be crazy steep and probably mess with my handling too much. (Can you say tank slapper?)
Ideas?
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Ratbuell
Posted on Friday, April 21, 2017 - 10:15 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

These could work for you:

https://roxspeedfx.com/products/2-pivoting-bar-ris ers-for-7-8-handlebar

But, since the bars are angled back from the clamp and put your hands in line with the tubes...I suspect you have another issue. Have you set your suspension properly and verified that everything is working properly? Especially sag? If you don't have enough sag for your weight, it is the same as having the tubes too far up in the clamps. Also verify you have proper tire pressures.

Buells have extremely precise handling, but when they're improperly set up, it can become "twitchy". Set it up right...and you're riding a scalpel.

Bars attached forward of the tubes is standard practice, industry-wide. That's the only reason I suggest some other issue - these are no different any any other sportbike out there.
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Nuts4mc
Posted on Friday, April 21, 2017 - 10:19 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The boys over in the BMW camp (R1100S) have been doing this type of "riser" for a long time...basically a "stub" fits in the existing hole that the clip on bar is in, and the bar is relocated to the "mounting hole" in the riser...I've seem it done on SV650s too (an easier to machine "double clamp" style)...want more ideas?...google "handle bar risers for R1100S"
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rox-Pivoting-Handlebar-Ris er-Rox-Speed-FX-1R-P2PP-/331519406792?fits=Make%3A BMW
hope this helps
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99buellx1
Posted on Friday, April 21, 2017 - 10:55 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Cut the mounting tabs off the existing top triple and then you can put clipons directly below it without issue.

Quite common.
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Redman1125r
Posted on Friday, April 21, 2017 - 11:54 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks gents, all good ideas! I'll dig in when I have time. I also found an old thread and link to Convertibars which would do exactly what I want, albeit $$$.
Rat: I am new to this bike but not new at all to sportbikes. (40yrs riding). The PO had the susp set all kinds of wonky. I just set it back to all the stock settinging to start with and will work on tweaks in the coming month since the rain has stopped. Yesterdays ride (YAY!) told me I may have too much front pre and comp damping.
My complaint is that my hands feel like they are way in front of the tubes and I don't like it. Regular clipons are indeed in front of the tubes but just barely. Buell's top tree has them a good inch out front and the resulting geometry is not to my liking.
The BMW/ROX risers would raise my hands UP, which I don't really want. I may have to though, for fairing clearance...I'll see.
Thanks again guys. All good avenues for me to follow.
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Ratbuell
Posted on Friday, April 21, 2017 - 01:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

It's not so much where the bar attaches to the tree in relation to the tubes...it's where your hands attach to the bars in relation to the tubes. And although I own a CR with clubmans (which I love), I seem to recall there's some pullback to the R bars that puts your hands in line with the fork tubes.

The Rox risers rotate wherever you want them, based on clearance. They may be a bar-thickness taller...but you can also sweep them BACK a good bit in the process. They're a popular mod on the Ulysses as a way to raise the traditional bars, for a more upright riding position, but the rotational aspect allows some pretty personalized setups.

But absolutely get the suspension dialed in correctly before tossing parts and $$ at it. Once you get it right...you'll be amazed.
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Onetuford
Posted on Friday, April 21, 2017 - 09:20 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Cr high bar swap

Edit: I finished reading all the posts thoroughly. CR bar swap wouldn't be what your looking for, sorry about that. I wanted more adjustability for my R as even at 5'10" I felt to "stretched out" and here's what I found on the web:

1. The Rox pivoting riser--this might work, though I spoke with a rep at that company and they were adamant about not using that on a Buell. He said something about the torsional load and possibility of breakage, even saying that he knew of one Bueller that used it and that it broke, though he didn't mention how. They had no interest in making something for the 1125R at this time.

2. EBR top triple for the R with Woodcraft clip-ons--this option will cost roughly $350-400 unless you use some low cost ebay clip-ons. The Woodcraft with risers I was looking at were around $175, the clamp is $160.

3. Search the Badweb and see the American Sportbike riser. I contemplated making these myself with an extra set of R bars. I'm not a master fabricator, but have some skills and my bro IS a master welder by trade. It could be done with a moderate amount of ease.

In my case I went with the CR upper triple and high bars. I don't do track days and the slightly more upright, yet still moderately aggressive rider position suits me well. It was a straight forward conversion. It also allows for some flexibility in that you could use the CR clubmans, the CR high bar, or just about any 1-1/8" (I think, might be 1-1/4") bars, like the Pro-taper offerings. I lucked out and found an upper triple used from a member over at Buellxb.com, the upper triple is pending obsolete and is the hardest part to source. I've only been in the Buell world for 2 years so take that info for what its worth.

(Message edited by onetuford on April 22, 2017)
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Redman1125r
Posted on Sunday, April 23, 2017 - 12:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks guys...Tuford, I don't want the bars any higher but may have to for clearance and the like. As for the top yoke and bars pushing $400, I might as well go with the Convertibars as they are just under with tax and ship. They will also put my hands exactly where I want them and have almost unlimited adjustment of all angles involved. It's always just a question of more money...sigh.
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