|Posted on Sunday, March 26, 2017 - 11:17 am: ||
After close to 30k miles, I'm doing a major overhaul on my girl--with the recent sad news about our brand I figure she deserves it. The boards/forums have really slowed down recently so posting a follow-along will help others, and boy have I ran into some fun problems so far.
I've successfully separated the engine/swingarm and frame/forks. Along the way, the engine/swingarm/radiator assembly tipped forward on my jack out of the frame before I disconnected two things: rear O2 sensor wire and oil pressure sensor wire. Both snapped. Oops.
Swingarm spools ziptied to the stand ... with a floor jack on the back as ballast. Working with what I have!
I'm detailing everything, adding heat abatement to the frame and hopefully the headers, checking valve lash, and a bunch of other stuff. I'll detail the plan in a later post.
One question I have immediately is whether or not the instrument cluster will swap between an R and a CR in '09? Both have part numbers Y0500.2AMA, so I think I'm good. I just want to make sure before I pull the trigger.
|Posted on Sunday, March 26, 2017 - 12:40 pm: ||
If you do anything to the headers, I'd recommend ceramic coating. All of it is relatively easy work from a maintenance perspective though. Just take your time, possibly a lot of pics if you're forgetful on where stuff goes and enjoy it. It's not hard to work on a Buell in general.
Clusters are the same.
|Posted on Thursday, March 30, 2017 - 10:20 pm: ||
Thanks Dean! I've got the IC on the way. Found it on Facebook of all places. I removed the headers and I'm dropping them off tomorrow morning to get ceramic coated. Shooting for a polished aluminum look, so we'll see. I'm trying to grab this RT-3 pipe of a guy as wellhopefully that works out. I'll be polishing it to match the headers.
I ordered a set of Pirelli Angel GTs and I'm looking forward to those. Going from the Pirelli Diablo III, and then a whole fleet of Michelins (coming off of the Pilot Road 4 right now), we'll see how long they last. I think I got 8k mi out of this set. I'm changing this next pair myself. It'll be the first time for me, but I'm tired of paying so much to have it done. Changing them and balancing with a stand doesn't seem difficult.
I also have some vinyl on the way. Thinking carbon fiber for the front fender and scoops, then replacing all the stickers. Should be fun to play with.
Here's the plan for the overhaul:
Rebuild caliper? - other than buying individual parts on TwinMotorcycle
to piece together a rebuild kit, I can't find a kit anywhere.
Rotor hardware kit
Oil & filter change
Recharge K&N air filter
Valve check - need to measure for valve shims. I guess I'll order individual V-rod shims.
Thermo-Tech adhesive-backed heat shield for the inside of the tank and under the seat
New exhaust? RT-3 or another Barkers
New ECM or try to reprogram with Buelltooth and whaever program I need. I need to read
up and refresh my memory.
Polish taillight lens
New LED plate bulb
Paint wheels? Tired of scrubbing that finish.
Clean everything real good
Tires - Pirelli Angel GT (check)
- Tire irons
- Wheel weights
- Balancer stand
(Message edited by jeepinbueller on March 31, 2017)
|Posted on Wednesday, April 19, 2017 - 10:50 am: ||
Things are going well. Valve lash is measured for all eight shims, but I have a stupid question: how do you remove the cam follower clip that keeps them from sliding over? Can't seem to get the shims out without sliding the followers out of the way.
The manual is noticeably void here, but I'm assuming it falls under general mechanic's knowledge that I don't have just yet.
|Posted on Wednesday, April 19, 2017 - 07:12 pm: ||
They snap on the cam follower rod, just pivot them 90 degrees and snap them off the rod. I use a flat bladed screw driver to pry them off, just be careful not to damage the cam follower.
(Message edited by willmrx on April 19, 2017)
|Posted on Wednesday, April 19, 2017 - 11:06 pm: ||
Thanks, got those suckers. I was being too timid in there, afraid to break the retainers. Had to order an external micrometer because I forgot I didn't have one.
Most measurements came in extremely tight and I think I'll need eight new V-rod shims from the local dealer.
|Posted on Thursday, April 20, 2017 - 11:42 am: ||
I just ending up buying a Hot cams shim kit. It makes it a lot easier to get the specs right on. The kits cost from $50.00 to $70.00. The part # HCSHIM31 The way I check the shims is, I measure the gap, say exhaust is at .010, then I remove the shim and measure it, and then just pick a shim that is .003 thinner to get my .013 spec. Then I put the thinner shim in and remeasure the gap to make sure it is correct.
http://www.motoparthub.com/HCSHIM31_HOT_CAMS_Valve _Shim_Kits_And_Refill_Packages_Shim_Kit_10mm_Od?sr c=Google&gclid=CN3hkfiss9MCFYW2wAodFvgDMQ
(Message edited by willmrx on April 20, 2017)
|Posted on Thursday, May 11, 2017 - 03:01 pm: ||
Finally got my shim kit, header gaskets, and frame insulation in the garage. Had a few heavy weeks at work but getting back into it.
The shims come in .05 mm sizes so I'm just making sure I go the correct way when rounding to get the correct new shim size.
For example, I measured front cylinder exhaust valve 1 lash at .229 mm and old shim thickness measured at 2.361 mm. Desired nominal shim size is 2.285 mm, which I have a 2.25 or 2.30 mm shim in the kit. Should I go with the lower limit side of 2.25 mm? And continue siding with the thinner shim if a choice needs to be made (as long as it's within spec)?
|Posted on Friday, May 12, 2017 - 05:34 am: ||
When rounding to the best size, always round loose. As with wear, the clearance over time, will become always become tighter.
|Posted on Sunday, June 11, 2017 - 11:56 am: ||
Alright! After a few weeks of being busy at work, I've got the bike 80% there. I need to change the tires tonight and change out the brake pads.
One problem: there's a sensor that sits freely inside the left side of the frame. It's exactly like the barometric sensor that's on the back of the airbox...
what would happen if you tried to run the bike without it?
|Posted on Tuesday, June 13, 2017 - 10:21 am: ||
Hopefully someone will correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe there are two of those sensors on the bike.
The one in the rear is the barometric pressure sensor, and there's one that mounts near the throttle bodies that measures airbox pressure.
I'll verify the location when I get over to the shop later.
I have the air box off the '09 CR. (Engine is coming
out, but progress has been seriously delayed by an unfortunate circumstance.)
|Posted on Tuesday, June 13, 2017 - 10:40 am: ||
Apologies, that is the manifold air pressure sensor, not airbox pressure...I'm brain dead.
Haven't been to the shop yet, but the service manual, which doesn't picture the installation, indicates it is hooked via hoses and a tee to the base of both throttle bodies.
I'll verify later.
|Posted on Tuesday, June 13, 2017 - 02:50 pm: ||
You really can't see the sensor well with the throttle bodies on, but there are two nipples on the base of the throttle bodies, the rear one faces forward, the front one faces the rear.
A short section of braided fabric reinforced hose is clamped to each nipple, and both go on a plastic Tee fitting.
Another short section of the same hose is pointed to the left, and goes on the MAP sensor
I can't tell yet whether the sensor is mounted to anything, or is just supported by the hose.
They weigh very little.
|Posted on Wednesday, June 14, 2017 - 03:28 pm: ||
You rock, Pan. Thanks for the info. I've commuted to work twice this week (~160 mi) with the MAP sensor unplugged and she runs fine enough without it. I'll pick up a spare soon and wire it in
I did notice when I broke her down for the valve adjustment that the MAP sensor wasn't connected to anything. No tubes connecting to anything--I'm going to need to reinvestigate this because, as you said, the manuals are shy on info as to how it mounts.
In ECMDROID you can bypass the MAP sensor, but I'm not sure how that impacts how well she runs. I have a Barkers map loaded right now.
Holy crap, I swear it pulls at least 15% stronger after the valve adjustment and new fuel map.
|Posted on Monday, June 19, 2017 - 12:42 am: ||
So I've put about 250 miles on her since the overhaul and things are going great. Rides real strong both at low and high RPM. The low rev, puttin' around town stuff is much smoother with the Barker's tune loaded via Buelltooth and ECMDroid. My modded stock exhaust and K&N air filter go well with it--minimal popping on decel. Only hold back is the bypassed MAP sensor CEL from accidentally clipping the wires to it. Oops. Runs fine with just the Baro sensor (and actually there's an option in the program that ensures the Baro sensor takes priority over the MAP.
See all the pictures here: http://imgur.com/a/tUNjd
(I apologize in advance for the processing on the photos. I don't know what I was thinking).
Final List of Improvements:
Oil change - Mobil1 V-Twin 20W-50
Oil filter change - K&N
K&N air filter clean and recharge
Bottom oil screen clean
Coolant change - distilled water with Red Line Water Wetter
Tires - Pirelli Angel GT
New front and rear brake pads (I went with EBC HH, FA454/4HH front & FA460HH rear from here)
New brake fluid and clutch fluid all around
Replaced frame insulation
Stebel Nautilus compact mini air horn
New LED H7 headlight bulbs (I bought this kit) these work great and fit with minimal Dremel work
Carbon fiber vinyl wrapped flyscreen, radiator covers, and front fender (I used this stuff)
Thanks for all the help, everyone!
(Message edited by jeepinbueller on June 19, 2017)
|Posted on Monday, June 19, 2017 - 12:10 pm: ||
Your bike looks great! Very nice job. I just passed the 600 mile mark on my rebuild. What I can tell you is it take some riding for the ECM to adjust to the new engine adjustments. It seems that it just gets stronger every ride! I replaced the lower cam chain guides with one for a 2010, it quieted the engine noise down a lot, compared to the other 1125R I have heard. I would recommend replacing them with the 2010, they were only like $6 dollars each.
|Posted on Tuesday, June 20, 2017 - 10:27 am: ||
Hey jeepinbueller, do you mind posting a picture of how your headlights shine at night? Im curious if those led bulbs scatter the light and create alot of glare for oncoming cars.
|Posted on Tuesday, June 20, 2017 - 11:33 pm: ||
Sure: here they are against the inside of my garage door. Bike's on a rear stand so it's aimed a bit low. I would say it throws an "acceptable" amount of glare. Enough to be noticed, but I never get flashed and ride at night often.
If you're going for an LED kit and you have a CR, I'm almost certain you need to get the kind with the ribbon heat sinks like I got. There isn't a lot of clearance behind the headlight housing for those ones with the fan on the rear of the bulb.
Also, one of the H7 bulbs uses a ring adapter with an internal spring clip to secure the bulb. It wouldn't fit over the fan.
This winter I'm going to retrofit dual projectors into the housing for a legit beam pattern and 2x the light.
That said, I'm happy with both the output and the pattern compared to stock, upgraded incandescent bulbs, and an HID kit.
|Posted on Wednesday, July 12, 2017 - 10:44 pm: ||
I'm getting the AFR error consistently now that it's been 90ฐ+ here in MD lately. The coolant temps are fine (under 200 in traffic) but since the delta between the F/R cylinder fuel enrichment is too great, I'm guessing my fueling is off.
The entire rear of my stock exhaust is gutted with the shell put back on because I can never leave anything alone. I'd like to change it soon to a legit one like another Barkers or a Keda.
Until then, is there a better tune out there for a modded stock exhaust (Keda MT-1 esque)? I'm running the Barkers tune now for a BUE2D 1125CR ECM and it seems too rich.
|Posted on Sunday, July 16, 2017 - 12:12 am: ||
So I'm getting by right now by resetting my AFV values to 100% for both cylinders and resetting my TPS before each ride. The bike runs fine when cold, but after getting hot it idles weird and low speed is fairly annoying with a bunch of bucking and back talk. I get the F/R cylinder AFV mismatch error CEL every ride--my rear cylinder AFV is 100% and my front cylinder is at 123.7%. I tightened my muffler clamps.
Any clues on what I need to do?
(Message edited by jeepinbueller on July 16, 2017)
|Posted on Sunday, July 16, 2017 - 06:01 am: ||
Sounds like intake leak??
|Posted on Sunday, July 16, 2017 - 02:32 pm: ||
Jeepinbueller, your pictures were fantastic, thanks for sharing.
|Posted on Sunday, July 16, 2017 - 11:25 pm: ||
That looks great!
|Posted on Wednesday, July 19, 2017 - 11:19 pm: ||
I''m still having crap for luck keeping the CR running. It konks out every time I stop now. I adjusted the throttle cables, checked the air box seal around the throttle bodies and the one that goes around the top half of the air box, and re-burned the Barker tune. Then I reset the TPS.
It won't idle when hot, and while riding I have no engine braking. I swear I'm only on one cylinder sometimes. Low RPM below 3500 and the fueling is way inconsistent, bucking and hiccuping.
NO CEL on this ride tonight, though. I went for an hour. By 10 mins into the ride, and at stoplights and stop signs I'm embarrassingly having to maintain 2,000 RPM by hand or it just dies.
I really hate my bike right now.
|Posted on Thursday, July 20, 2017 - 10:39 am: ||
google at the top of the page may help...here's a link to a similar issue:
clean out the IAC?