|Posted on Sunday, March 26, 2017 - 11:17 am: ||
After close to 30k miles, I'm doing a major overhaul on my girl--with the recent sad news about our brand I figure she deserves it. The boards/forums have really slowed down recently so posting a follow-along will help others, and boy have I ran into some fun problems so far.
I've successfully separated the engine/swingarm and frame/forks. Along the way, the engine/swingarm/radiator assembly tipped forward on my jack out of the frame before I disconnected two things: rear O2 sensor wire and oil pressure sensor wire. Both snapped. Oops.
Swingarm spools ziptied to the stand ... with a floor jack on the back as ballast. Working with what I have!
I'm detailing everything, adding heat abatement to the frame and hopefully the headers, checking valve lash, and a bunch of other stuff. I'll detail the plan in a later post.
One question I have immediately is whether or not the instrument cluster will swap between an R and a CR in '09? Both have part numbers Y0500.2AMA, so I think I'm good. I just want to make sure before I pull the trigger.
|Posted on Sunday, March 26, 2017 - 12:40 pm: ||
If you do anything to the headers, I'd recommend ceramic coating. All of it is relatively easy work from a maintenance perspective though. Just take your time, possibly a lot of pics if you're forgetful on where stuff goes and enjoy it. It's not hard to work on a Buell in general.
Clusters are the same.
|Posted on Thursday, March 30, 2017 - 10:20 pm: ||
Thanks Dean! I've got the IC on the way. Found it on Facebook of all places. I removed the headers and I'm dropping them off tomorrow morning to get ceramic coated. Shooting for a polished aluminum look, so we'll see. I'm trying to grab this RT-3 pipe of a guy as wellhopefully that works out. I'll be polishing it to match the headers.
I ordered a set of Pirelli Angel GTs and I'm looking forward to those. Going from the Pirelli Diablo III, and then a whole fleet of Michelins (coming off of the Pilot Road 4 right now), we'll see how long they last. I think I got 8k mi out of this set. I'm changing this next pair myself. It'll be the first time for me, but I'm tired of paying so much to have it done. Changing them and balancing with a stand doesn't seem difficult.
I also have some vinyl on the way. Thinking carbon fiber for the front fender and scoops, then replacing all the stickers. Should be fun to play with.
Here's the plan for the overhaul:
Rebuild caliper? - other than buying individual parts on TwinMotorcycle
to piece together a rebuild kit, I can't find a kit anywhere.
Rotor hardware kit
Oil & filter change
Recharge K&N air filter
Valve check - need to measure for valve shims. I guess I'll order individual V-rod shims.
Thermo-Tech adhesive-backed heat shield for the inside of the tank and under the seat
New exhaust? RT-3 or another Barkers
New ECM or try to reprogram with Buelltooth and whaever program I need. I need to read
up and refresh my memory.
Polish taillight lens
New LED plate bulb
Paint wheels? Tired of scrubbing that finish.
Clean everything real good
Tires - Pirelli Angel GT (check)
- Tire irons
- Wheel weights
- Balancer stand
(Message edited by jeepinbueller on March 31, 2017)
|Posted on Wednesday, April 19, 2017 - 10:50 am: ||
Things are going well. Valve lash is measured for all eight shims, but I have a stupid question: how do you remove the cam follower clip that keeps them from sliding over? Can't seem to get the shims out without sliding the followers out of the way.
The manual is noticeably void here, but I'm assuming it falls under general mechanic's knowledge that I don't have just yet.
|Posted on Wednesday, April 19, 2017 - 07:12 pm: ||
They snap on the cam follower rod, just pivot them 90 degrees and snap them off the rod. I use a flat bladed screw driver to pry them off, just be careful not to damage the cam follower.
(Message edited by willmrx on April 19, 2017)
|Posted on Wednesday, April 19, 2017 - 11:06 pm: ||
Thanks, got those suckers. I was being too timid in there, afraid to break the retainers. Had to order an external micrometer because I forgot I didn't have one.
Most measurements came in extremely tight and I think I'll need eight new V-rod shims from the local dealer.
|Posted on Thursday, April 20, 2017 - 11:42 am: ||
I just ending up buying a Hot cams shim kit. It makes it a lot easier to get the specs right on. The kits cost from $50.00 to $70.00. The part # HCSHIM31 The way I check the shims is, I measure the gap, say exhaust is at .010, then I remove the shim and measure it, and then just pick a shim that is .003 thinner to get my .013 spec. Then I put the thinner shim in and remeasure the gap to make sure it is correct.
http://www.motoparthub.com/HCSHIM31_HOT_CAMS_Valve _Shim_Kits_And_Refill_Packages_Shim_Kit_10mm_Od?sr c=Google&gclid=CN3hkfiss9MCFYW2wAodFvgDMQ
(Message edited by willmrx on April 20, 2017)
|Posted on Thursday, May 11, 2017 - 03:01 pm: ||
Finally got my shim kit, header gaskets, and frame insulation in the garage. Had a few heavy weeks at work but getting back into it.
The shims come in .05 mm sizes so I'm just making sure I go the correct way when rounding to get the correct new shim size.
For example, I measured front cylinder exhaust valve 1 lash at .229 mm and old shim thickness measured at 2.361 mm. Desired nominal shim size is 2.285 mm, which I have a 2.25 or 2.30 mm shim in the kit. Should I go with the lower limit side of 2.25 mm? And continue siding with the thinner shim if a choice needs to be made (as long as it's within spec)?
|Posted on Friday, May 12, 2017 - 05:34 am: ||
When rounding to the best size, always round loose. As with wear, the clearance over time, will become always become tighter.