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Echo64
Posted on Sunday, December 11, 2016 - 02:10 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

2009 1125CR ~10k miles

Hello, I recently crashed my bike and I was trying to get it running again. I have a bunch of errors including.

P0122 TPS sys error
P1093 fuel pr sys error
P0511 IAC sys error
P0113 IAT sys error
P0562 system voltage
P2229 baro sys error
P0118 engine tmpsys error

I have replaced everything broken and checked all connections and everything looks good now. I am not entirely sure how to wipe the error codes but I have been trying to turn the bike on.

It takes a lot of turning but it eventually turns on. It didn't sound very good at first but it started to sound normal but it eventually gets an engine overheating error and shuts off right away. Or sometimes after letting it idle for a few seconds I give it a little throttle and it immediately shuts off. The overheating error bugs me, the pipes get really hot fast. Perhaps the thermostat is broken.

I took a video (below) and I am not sure if this is normal, but after it shuts off I turn the throttle and a lot of smoke comes out of the cylinders. Is this normal? is the exhaust perhaps not being pushed out through the exhaust?

Any help would be appreciated, thanks.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B1HS1Hf_wjEOY2pz SUJpWUo1d2c

(Message edited by Echo64 on December 11, 2016)
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M1combat
Posted on Sunday, December 11, 2016 - 05:26 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Did you do a TPS reset?
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Nuts4mc
Posted on Sunday, December 11, 2016 - 12:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

TPS reset:
To zero the TPS:

1. Set the Run/Stop switch to the Run position.
2. Turn the ignition key to the On position.
3. With the engine off, rotate the throttle grip from its closed
throttle position to the wide-open throttle position and back
to closed position three (3) times, holding the throttle grip
against each stop (open and closed) for one (1) full second.
4. Cycle the ignition key off and back on.

A properly calibrated TPS sensor will indicate 3.7 to 4.2 volts
for wide open throttle.

'09 are known for bad stators/charging issues....suggest you charge the battery overnight...you can look into 2009 charging issues by using the google link at the top of the page (there is a sub forum for it on this forum)

I'm guessing the engine stalls when you give it gas = low battery...bike needs good voltage/good battery - the ECU (engine control unit) will shut down unless it has sufficient voltage....if the ECU shuts down, it's the brains of the bike, all other systems stop...( how old is the battery?...are the connections tight and clean?)

I wouldn't worry about the "smoke"...most likely excess gas hitting the hot valves after idling

the pipes WILL get hot fast...you need to see if the "fans" will turn on ( are the radiators hot?...is there coolant in the radiators?)...if the battery is too low - the fans won't turn on and the voltage/current draw by the fans trying to turn on will kill the voltage to the ECU and the engine will stop

the error codes go away after several successful starts...you need to start out with a good battery at full charge...if you crank the engine a long time it depletes any "reserve power" a marginal battery may have - the ECU can't have enough juice and it stops everything...hope this helps
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Echo64
Posted on Sunday, December 11, 2016 - 04:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Awesome, thanks guys. The battery is shot so I have been hooking it up to my car battery for testing. It jumps up to 17 volts so I think I'm overdoing it. I will pick up a new battery today. I attempted the TPS reset but the voltage wasnt nearly that high, I will try again with a new battery.

Thanks for the help. One step at a time it feels like. next up is a battery and TPS reset. I was definitely worried about that smoke, I've never seen that before.
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Nuts4mc
Posted on Sunday, December 11, 2016 - 07:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

due to the design (at least on my '08) you may need a battery from a Harley shop...if you buy an aftermarket battery, some come with adapters to connect to the (HD-type)cables...but be careful as the (+) terminal with the adapters can come close to the (-) frame rail...plan it out before you install the battery...some electrical tape/wire loom insulator may come in handy.
hth
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Dennis_c
Posted on Monday, December 12, 2016 - 02:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

17 volts is to high even with a car battery
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Echo64
Posted on Monday, December 12, 2016 - 09:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I think perhaps my voltage readings are off on my bike's dashboard.

I've done the TPS reset and its reading 1.5 full open. It's reading the battery at 17-18 volts but my meter only reads around 11-12.

Is there a chip that does the readings at all? Or a way to "reset" it.

Thank you
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Nuts4mc
Posted on Monday, December 12, 2016 - 10:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

as Dennis sez...17VDC is too high...suggest you remove the battery connection (like a hard reset (cold boot) on your computer) and let the bike sit unconnected for 5-10 minutes...reconnect the battery and see what the Inst Panel reads...possibly something was damaged when you crashed...possibly something is not connected or mis-connected on your rebuild...( do the head lights come on when you turn "ON" the key?)...the lights use some energy..if they're not on you need to check the relays in the little black box back by the battery...hth
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Dennis_c
Posted on Tuesday, December 13, 2016 - 01:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

A good battery should read 12.6 to 12.9 volts. 12.7 is a full charge. 12.6 is a little on the low side that's with it sitting for a a few hr. when motor is running should be low 13v to mid 14v if I remember right 14.7 or 14.8 is max volts above that is bad.
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Nuts4mc
Posted on Tuesday, December 13, 2016 - 02:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I agree with Dennis, if you are still seeing 17 VDC...might want to pick up a new meter ( I use a auto ranging one from Walmart about $30) and verify the voltage the battery is "seeing" with a new meter...if it is in agreement with the Inst Pnl display
STOP...the Voltage rectifier/regulator is bad...if you continue more harm will be done.
a new Regulator/Rectifier is needed...here's a good link with purchase and install info:

http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/724751.html?1388956856

hth
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Joe7bros
Posted on Tuesday, December 13, 2016 - 07:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I used the shindengen sh847 series V/R from Roadstercycles; works great. I bought the Deutsch connector for a plug and play install; V/R is mounted to an aluminum plate tail tidy; voltage runs between 14.1 and 14.5 consistently. It's a pretty easy upgrade.
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Echo64
Posted on Monday, January 09, 2017 - 10:03 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks guys, I appreciate all the help. I had IDS check my ECM and it's all good. I installed my new voltage regulator for roadstercycle, which I had ready for install before the crash. I have the bike back on two wheels but I just couldn't seem to get the bike to run properly.

I did however locate, probably (and hopefully), the source of all my electrical problems. I noticed the neutral light going on and off randomly and narrowed it down to the gray connector to the ECM. I inspected it further and found that half of the pins weren't even seated. I pulled off the connector head and I attached a picture which shows how the pins were seated.

I did a short search and haven't found anything yet but does anyone know where I can buy another one of these connectors?

Thanks!



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Joe7bros
Posted on Monday, January 09, 2017 - 10:22 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Try wirecare.com
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Stevel
Posted on Wednesday, January 11, 2017 - 09:53 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have purchased 4 of these connectors from Tim at IDS for my break-out box. He also has the pins, but be advised that the correct crimping tool costs around $1200, so trying to find an economical equivalent is challenging. Note that the crimp must pass inside the pin bore of the connector and there is no extra space.
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Joe7bros
Posted on Wednesday, January 11, 2017 - 10:40 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Prep the wire, heat the pin, fill the pin with solder, insert wire, allow to cool. You have to be careful of any solder flow over the ridge on the outside of the pin, as that will interfere with inserting the pin and retainer. This is the technique I used when I replaced my V/R using OEM Deutsch connectors.
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Reepicheep
Posted on Wednesday, January 11, 2017 - 01:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Add "tin the wire lightly with flux core solder" between "heat the pin" and "fill the pin with solder" to Joe7's good instructions...

Should work well. Not theoretically as reliable as a crimp, as it creates a new brittle point, but likely more than good enough.
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Stevel
Posted on Thursday, January 12, 2017 - 05:45 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

These are NOT solder pins. They come with 4 ears that must be rolled over and crimped around the wire for the lower ears and around the wire insulation for the upper pair of ears. In addition not all 18 awg. wire is compatible. The OD of the insulation must not exceed .080" either. Even if the ears are removed, some deburring and crimping would still be required to pass into the pin bore. Also, the pin and wire must pass through a rubber weather seal, so the wire must remain round to remain water resistant. The pins are retained by a common sliding white plastic gate. This gate is only visible once the pin block is removed from the connector housing. If any pin is not properly positioned, the plate will not slide into the locking position. I suspect this gate was not in the locked position, which likely caused the dislodged pins in the first place. Yes, these connectors are a pain and in my opinion, there is no work around to correct installation. These are not Deutsch connectors. I believe they are made by a division of AMP.
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Echo64
Posted on Friday, January 13, 2017 - 10:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hey guys thanks for the replies. I found the gray 34 pin connector on the new castle HD store and ordered one, it was $10. I plan on pushing the pins out of what is left of the connector and ill just slip them into the new one when I get it. It looks like a standard amphenol and they should just click right in there. I may need to do some tweezer work to get some of the seated pins out of the broken connector but I don't think it will be too difficult.

Another issue I keep dodging is the rear brake retaining spring. I can't seem to find this thing anywhere. One of mine broke so the pad just sort of leans on the rotor. I have been looking for a new set of brake pads just for the spring but all the sellers I ask say their pads don't come with the spring and to just reuse the old one... Does anyone know of a pad brand that sells the pads with the spring?

Thanks!
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Willmrx
Posted on Saturday, January 14, 2017 - 12:18 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Braking Brand come with the pad clips.
http://www.motoparthub.com/938CM56_Braking_High_pe rformance_Brake_Pads_Brake_Pad_Sint_938cm56?src=Go ogle&gclid=COz2vO_wwNECFYO4wAodHy8GrA
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Echo64
Posted on Monday, January 23, 2017 - 03:53 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Well guys, I put in the new connector and bought those brake pads with the clip like Willmrx suggested. The bike is running well now! I took it to the gas station and filled up and rode it back without any issues. I'm excited to have it back on the road. There are a few cosmetic issues to attend to but overall it's looking pretty good

I do have 2 concerns though.

1. The right fork is leaking. Hydraulic fluid is running down and onto the wheel. Is this something that needs to be fixed ASAP before riding it anywhere or can I replace the seals when I get a chance in the next couple weeks?

2. The lower triple tree, when rotating the bars, grinds some metal bits up, which I believe is normal and it feels okay turning but when I lift the handlebars up and down or put it on the kickstand I can hear something making a notching noise. I believe it where metal meets metal on the lower triple tree. Is this normal? I don't recall this noise before the crash. Perhaps I can adjust the height of it?

Thanks again!
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Two_seasons
Posted on Tuesday, January 24, 2017 - 04:39 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Don't ride with forks that are not matched, ie, fluid and or spring rate!
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Professorbarnhouse
Posted on Wednesday, January 25, 2017 - 12:08 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I rebuilt an 1125Cr salvage bike a few years ago that had some of the same triple tree symptoms, It had taken a solid enough hit to bend one fork tube, after I pulled the front end I found the triple tree stem was bent and the lower steering head bearing was broken. I would strongly recommend pulling the tree and checking, that's not something you want coming loose while riding! the bearings are fairly lightweight flanged cartridge type ball bearings, easy to replace, and kind of a weak point in the design imhop. Pulling the tree would also give you a chance to fix the leaky seal, might also be worth it to check for a bent fork tube.
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Echo64
Posted on Tuesday, February 21, 2017 - 01:05 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I finally finished the bike! I changed out the fork seals and the forks are working great now.

I also removed the upper and lower triple tree. The triple trees were in great shape but I found the problem with the head bearings. When I ran the bike into the back of the car it looks like it jammed the bottom head bearing up into the tank frame. It was basically turning metal on metal and the bearing was useless. I couldn't remove it easily. I had to smash it into pieces with a screwdriver from above. Fortunately, the frame was undamaged, just the bearing was crushed inside of it. the top bearing was okay. I went ahead and ordered and replaced both either way.

With all that back together the bike is now ridable and it almost feels like it's better than before I crashed it. I've been riding it a bit around town but it has been raining like crazy in LA lately. Since they had to total the car I hit (16 Camry), Progressive wanted to charge me $5k for basic insurance on the bike, basically they didn't want me as a customer anymore. I had to switch to another company, with to my surprise almost no increase to my premium from before the crash. I'm slowly vinyl wrapping the plastics as they have scratches all over them so when that is done I will post a before and after picture.

I appreciate everyone's help. I loved working on the bike, I learned a lot, but hope to never crash it again.
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