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Tommymac92
Posted on Thursday, October 20, 2016 - 05:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

So I had my 1125 out on a handful of track days and a little street riding. Finished my track season and made it back to street riding. I had to get the bike inspected and did a once over and the rear brake lever is sticking. I will press it down and it wont go back up. Tried bleeding it and not much came out as far as fluid. Yanked off the caliper and disconnected the banjo. calipers look ok so I am wondering if its in the MC.

has anyone else had issues like this? The bike did get rained on and haevy rains in trailering it to 2 of my track days but the bike wasn't ridden in the wet this year so I am searching for ideas.
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Sprintst
Posted on Thursday, October 20, 2016 - 08:50 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The caliper looks okay, or is the piston actually moving? It's common for these rear calipers to seize up. THere's a thread about an inexpensive brembo replacement
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Jc1125r
Posted on Thursday, October 20, 2016 - 08:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Check the parts of the rear master cylinder for corrosion.
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Ceejay
Posted on Thursday, October 20, 2016 - 09:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You will have to remove the MC from the bike and pedal. Pull the boot from the lower end of the MC that covers the plunger from the pedal and the slave. You will need to disassemble it, which requires some snap ring pliers, but I'm guessing that is where you're corrosion is. It's a pretty simple repair and shouldn't cost a thing, other than some time.
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Tommymac92
Posted on Saturday, October 22, 2016 - 04:28 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

the caliper pistons pushed in with the amt of resistance I would expect with when replacing brake pads, it was a PITA removing everything, but I will reassemble all that then attack the MC. I was more annoyed with the removal of the rear brake and getting the pads out took a long time and I ran out of time to mess withthe MC
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Torquehd
Posted on Monday, October 24, 2016 - 12:00 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Nothing in the caliper should hinder the pedal from returning to the dormant position. Sounds like master cylinder piston/bore interference to me. Could be dirty fluid, particles getting caught between the bore/piston. My guess is a can of brake parts cleaner, a new bottle of dot 4, and an hour or so will set it straight.
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Ceejay
Posted on Wednesday, October 26, 2016 - 06:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Mine looked like moisture trapped in the boot due to its upside down orientation - condensation can't escape easily...coupled with really low mileage, I got it 9 months ago with 4k on the odometer, caused pitting and corrosion on the slave, thus not allowing the hydraulic forces to push the slave back...
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34nineteen
Posted on Friday, October 28, 2016 - 03:05 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

When I got my 1125CR, it had the same issue.

I don't think service parts were available from Hayes, nor did I find rebuild instructions. However, I was able to disassemble the master cylinder fairly easily, clean it out (a lot of corrosion and crud), reinstall and re-bleed with fresh fluid and it worked like a champ after that.
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