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Aussie_bueller
Posted on Saturday, October 01, 2016 - 09:03 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Please help
I am having problems with my charging system.
I've done the stator ,rotor fix and have just installed the Mosfet SH 847 regulator.
On bike start up I get 14.4 volts with the headlight on.
When the bike warms and the fans cut in the voltage gradually drops to 12.6 volts when at idle. When revving the engine the voltage does not increase.
We have tested the stator output and it has 107V ac at 5000RPM at each phase.
The wiring was done by a motorcycle teacher at the local technical collage where I work.
The stator wires were joined using the solder lugs supplied in the kit bought from Jack at roadstercycle.com. The regulator is bolted to the rear number plate bracket as recommended.
The battery is less than one year old and had a static voltage check at 13 volts.
Charging current at idle is 18 amps with the headlight on.
Charging current at 5000 RPM is 22amps with headlight and both fans on.
I see looking at the Buell website that it needs to charge at 13.4 as a minimum.
When riding the bike today I did notice the tempature at 74 and it was charging 13 volts, but as soon as I got caught in a bit of traffic the voltage dropped to 12.4 and temp was around 80 degrease.
Hope you guys have a better idea about what my problem is and how to fix.
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Two_seasons
Posted on Saturday, October 01, 2016 - 09:22 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'd say you need a new battery. If you have an L/I battery, it requires an L/I battery tender too.
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Reepicheep
Posted on Saturday, October 01, 2016 - 10:57 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Great detail.



quote:

When the bike warms and the fans cut in the voltage gradually drops to 12.6 volts when at idle. When revving the engine the voltage does not increase.




{We have tested the stator output and it has 107V ac at 5000RPM at each phase.}

I think you have something that is intermittently failing based on temperature.

Sorry for a stupid question from an non 1125 guy, but does your harness have the "open relay to cut stator leads" modification that they duck taped to the 1125's to mitigate thermal related stator failures? That could be messing with your testing as well.
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Joe7bros
Posted on Saturday, October 01, 2016 - 10:59 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Maybe a silly question, but you did remove the Harley "fix" harness with the relay; because the voltage drop is exactly what that harness and relay accomplish.
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Nuts4mc
Posted on Saturday, October 01, 2016 - 03:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

WASG
1) the big grey connector (under the seat) where the (3 yellow) stator wires connect to the rest of the bike's harness can be a source of resistance...check the connector for corrosion and make sure the mating parts of the connector are fully engaged.
youtube is your friend:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oag9bKcJUM0

2) check the battery cable connections..clean and tight?

3) add another ground (10AWG) from the battery directly to the engine

hope this helps
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Aussie_bueller
Posted on Sunday, October 02, 2016 - 08:05 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hi Guys. Reepicheep and Joe7bros. The Harley fix has been taken off.
The wiring was taken off when I done the rota and stator mod.
Hi Nuts4mc.
Thanks for your tip
I will do this and see if things change
I have change a few cosmetic things on this bike and will put some photos up soon .
There is not many of the 1125's in Sydney Australia
Thanks guys
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Thefleshrocket
Posted on Wednesday, October 05, 2016 - 02:04 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'll cast a vote for bad battery too. I had a "Motocross by Yuasa" battery that would drop voltage really quickly under load at idle, and it was because the battery wasn't holding enough of a charge to avoid being affected by short term low charging system output.

Actually, I had two of those batteries--one in my 1125 and one in my Speed Triple, and they both exhibited the same characteristics. I put an EarthX LiFePo4 battery ($260-ouch--but it has built-in over- and under-voltage protection and doesn't need a special charger) in my 1125 and a Battery Tender one (only $110, doesn't need a special charger, but doesn't have over- or under-voltage protection) in my Speed Triple (along with a Rick's VR, as the stocker had become flaky) and now both bikes maintain sufficient voltage even during brief periods of idling with the fans on.
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Stevel
Posted on Wednesday, October 05, 2016 - 04:20 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Stephen,
These 847 Mosfet regulators are very good and Jack at Roadstercycle has very good customer service. I would definitely contact him for help before doing anything. If I had to guess at the fault, I would substitute the battery for a conventional lead acid (gel) battery just to see if the indications change. I definitely would never use a lithium battery in any vehicle. I have said this before and I will repeat this again. Lithium battery temperature range is far too narrow for what they are exposed to in any vehicle and all battery operations must be controlled by a battery manager tailored specifically for the lithium battery in use.
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