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Jeepinbueller
Posted on Thursday, September 08, 2016 - 11:12 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have some really pronounced brake pulsing when coming to a stop, like the rotor is warped, so I'm going to be diving into this soon, too. When almost stopped, there are points in the wheel rotation where the pads are grabbing, then other points where they completely let the rotor go and braking force is reduce (so my head kinda bobs a bit if I'm not blending in the rear brake). From 5 mph to a stop I use the rear brake only to reduce this.

I don't think my rotor is actually warped, but the first thing I'm going to do is order the front brake rotor mounting hardware kit so it's centered within the caliper correctly.

In conjunction with the hardware kit, I'm going to verify the rotor isn't warped at a shop. If it's warped, I'll get an 1190 front rotor to mount up. Would the hardware kit for the XB/1125 p/n CQ0001.11AZ fit the 1190 rotor? And is CQ0001.11AZ still the correct p/n nowadays even if I reuse my stock 1125 rotor (with 27k miles on it)?

The other thing I noticed is my brake pads are wearing unevenly and the rotor has some color on it. I'm thinking I need to rebuild the caliper to get all the pistons working together.

Last time I changed the pads I extended the pistons as far as I could without overdoing it and tried to clean their running surfaces real good, but I might need an actual rebuild. Is H0020.05AH the kit I need (looks like two seals per piston, the eight pistons, and a few O-rings).

http://www.twinmotorcycles.nl/webshop/artikelen/WM /F2B3EFDD-9182-4ADF-B001-9C2161AB76E0.jpg

Thanks for the feedback guys, just seeing if I missed anything.
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Jeepinbueller
Posted on Thursday, September 08, 2016 - 11:15 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)







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Dannybuell
Posted on Thursday, September 08, 2016 - 03:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

how big is that ridge on the rotor?
it appears to be quite distinct, is it?
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Torquehd
Posted on Thursday, September 08, 2016 - 10:35 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

These rotors (unlike conventional hub-mounted rotors) don't warp very often under normal use. If you elevate the front wheel and give it a spin, and use a dial indicator, I'm guessing you won't see much fluctuation. However, they say that under normal street riding conditions, the rotors don't get hot enough to burn off the brake dust that can accumulate unevenly on the surface of the rotor. Uneven deposits result in uneven friction, thus the pulsation.

edit - after looking at the rotor, scrape your fingernail perpendicular to the "grain" or direction of travel (like you're trying to scratch a mosquito bite on it). If you feel your nail catch, replace the rotor. If it glides smoothly without catching, it's probably fine.

(Message edited by torquehd on September 08, 2016)
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Joe7bros
Posted on Thursday, September 08, 2016 - 10:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

He also has a problem with uneven pad wear; check the pictures. Based on what appears to be grooves and roughness on the visible side of the rotor, it looks to me like it needs to be replaced along with new pads, and possibly a caliper rebuild if the inner pistons are sticking.
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Sprintst
Posted on Sunday, September 11, 2016 - 07:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'd give a brake hone a shot first

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Nuts4mc
Posted on Sunday, September 11, 2016 - 07:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

just a WASG...if you have friend who is a machinist, or an old 2 stroke guy...he may have a dial indicator to check the T.I.R. ( Total Indicator Runout)of the wheel and/or brake disk...these wheels are not indestructible, if you have had some run ins with pot holes ... the wheel could be bent...the disk mounts to the rim...here's a You tube video of a severely bent rim...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sswEByfOVi4

HTH
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Zac4mac
Posted on Sunday, September 11, 2016 - 09:08 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The floating disks have a propensity for "wobbling".
Brake dust and road grime bias the disk in its "floating" region.

Take a dead blow hammer and wack the disk at each mount-point on the wheel then go for a ride.

99% of the time you'll find it fixed.

Z
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Jeepinbueller
Posted on Tuesday, September 13, 2016 - 10:46 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Well I have a bunch of things to try, don't I! I have access to dial indicators at work and can setup a rotor runout test. I'll attempt at getting the rotor to break free with a few whacks of a dead-blow (if that's what it is), but eventually I'm going to the EBR solid-mount hardware setup.

Danny- No ridge on the rotor, it just looks like it due to the discoloration.

I'm also going to follow through with the rebuild of the caliper since I've got 27k mi on it ... a good scrub and seal job would put my mind at ease.

I'll also watch some YouTube videos on how to hone a rotor properly with that drill attachment and give 'er a run through when I have the disc off-wheel for the hardware replacement.

I appreciate everyone's knowledge! Thanks again

(Message edited by jeepinbueller on September 13, 2016)
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Dennis_c
Posted on Wednesday, September 14, 2016 - 08:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

get rid of the stock brake pads more than likey the pulsing will go away with use.
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Jeepinbueller
Posted on Friday, September 16, 2016 - 09:33 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Wow, I got the front end up on a stand this morning before heading off to work: a couple light whacks on the rotor both towards the axle and away from it freed it up.

Braking is so much smoother at low speeds. There's still a very slight pulse, but it's smoothed out so much that I can barely feel it. You rock, Zach——thanks for the tip!

I still have my uneven brake pad wear, so a rebuilt of the caliper piston seals is still on the books, but for now my low speed pulses are gone.

I keep putting it off since I"m broke, but now is the time for a Badweb donation. None of the other forums comes close, antiquated or not.
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Mustang0
Posted on Friday, September 16, 2016 - 11:52 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Somebody I thought mentioned what pads work best, but don't remember what they were.
EBC hh maybe?
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Nuts4mc
Posted on Wednesday, September 28, 2016 - 10:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

sorry for the late reply...been on the road...DP brakes?...see below:
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/786421.html?1464971291
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Skntpig
Posted on Thursday, October 06, 2016 - 06:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Where can you get the DP pads?
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Nuts4mc
Posted on Thursday, October 06, 2016 - 11:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Sknt...click the link in fleshrkts post =Amazon
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