| Author | Message | ||
     Burrhead |
hi guys my buell is not running the head under the seat I checked the spark plug changed the coil 3 times and still nothing took it to have it diagnose on a computer at a dealership and they said its the coil...hmmm ok. brought it home anyone have any problems and or know how to fix it? | ||
| Nuts4mc |
Hmm...you changed the coil 3 times??...that means to me you have (3) coils to play with? all (3) coils were bad??... 1) I would check the wiring to the "bad" coil 2) check the ECM connection 3) check the ignition switch for any broken/shorted wires ( start the bike turn the bars back and forth...does it stall/miss?) 4) put a new plug in the rear cylinder 5) is the battery new/fully charged? 6) battery cables clean and tight? | ||
| Burrhead |
The tech said everything was fine from ecm to coil. I put one of the so-called bad coil in front head and it works. Battery is good as well and tightened. Anyone know anyone in ohio who has experience working on buells let me know please. | ||
| Mrlogix |
where in Ohio? | ||
| Dennis_c |
Is it getting gas to rear cyl | ||
| Burrhead |
I'm from Sandusky in ohio and yes there is gas the top 2 valves directly below the throttle butterfly have gas on top of them..so its getting gas. | ||
| Mrlogix |
I'm from Sandusky in ohio not sure how far that is from Toledo, but Rick Fears (board member/1125 owner) lives there and is pretty good at diagnostics, may be able to take a look at it for you. Send him a pm. I'm in Cincinnati, to far away to help. | ||
| Burrhead |
Ok thanks logic and Toledo is like 45 mins away | ||
| Dennis_c |
what is the # codes its throwing like P2303 P2304 | ||
| Burrhead |
i'll have to look again but I know before this problem I was getting a iac error at 186degrees | ||
| Burrhead |
they are p0264 and p0113 are the only two codes | ||
| Panshovevo |
Check all the grounds, and even if they look good, run a separate wire from the rear cylinder to the negative side of the battery. Pull the air box cover and filter, open the throttle all the way, bump the starter, and watch to see if both valves are operating. (You might want to disconnect the fuel pump fuse before trying this) I haven't looked up those trouble codes yet, but will. | ||
| Dennis_c |
P0264=Rear injector circuit low PO113= Intake Air Temperature Sensor High/Open Try some starter fluid or gas in the rear cylinder | ||
| Nuts4mc |
P0264= Rear Fuel Inj circuit low P0113= Intake air temp sensor high/open like Pans said...check your grounds...run a extra ground from the batt (-) to the engine. the IAT sensor is in front on the air intake "snorkel" between the radiators...check the wiring connection | ||
| Burrhead |
Ok guys thanks for the info and the tech from harley sprayed gas or starting fluid down the valves and still nothing gonna try the ground wire trick after work to see if its a bad ground.once again thanks for ideas to try. I'll post about ground wire later tonight | ||
| Burrhead |
Hi guys i tried the wire from neg to head and still no fire...getting frustrated with this..haven't rode all summer and it sucks...not gonna give up gonna try something new tomorrow after work again | ||
| Stevel |
Larry, I've been following your thread and can see your frustration. I sense that you are not an experienced mechanic, but this is really not rocket science. For this cylinder to run you need fuel/air, a spark and some compression. So basically, you only need to make 3 tests. At the end of these tests you will know were the fault lies, but the tests must be valid. A bad or inconclusive test will only lead you down the garden path ending in only confusion. Just where you are at the moment. First,check the spark by removing the plug and coil. Insert plug into the coil and ground the threads of the plug to the head casting. Make certain the wire harness is connected to the top of the coil. Spin the motor. You should see a blue spark at the business end of the plug. This will definitively give you confidence that you do or do not have a spark. With this result, you go on to the fuel test when a spark is present or you go the other way back towards testing the coil in the other cylinder or the wiring harness or ECM. The easiest fuel test is to spray a short burst of starting fluid into the throttle body while spinning the motor. If you have compression and spark, the cylinder will immediately fire, but then stop in the absence of fuel. If this test fails, you probably have no compression. If the cylinder does fire and then stop, you have an injector or injector trigger failure. The last test is for compression. I assume you do not have a compression gauge or leak down tester, so the next best thing is a simple wooden dowel that has a tapered end that will block the spark plug hole. If you block the spark plug hole in the head and try to hold the dowel with your hand sealing the hole and spin the motor, the compression, if adequate, will easily lift the dowel out of the hole with a burst of air. If that test fails, you broke the motor and it's time to pull the head and inspect the damage. No matter how these tests work out you will know with confidence where the fault lies and can get back to the forum with this information. The forum can then be much more helpful on recommending your next steps. | ||
| Dannybuell |
Stevel ~ Succinct Prose, Sweet. | ||
| M1combat |
Keep in mind you don't want to run a dowl "into" the plug hole. Use a dowl that's larger than the hole and tapered like Stevel says. Just in there enough to plug air movement. If it's down in the hole when the piston comes up it won't do anything any good... | ||
| Stevel |
Don, Thanks for your qualification. It seemed like common sense to me, but at times common sense is not so common! Actually, it doesn't matter so much on this engine, because the plug hole is centered exactly center on the piston and vertical to the bore. In fact I have made a dial indicator holder that screws into the plug hole to validate TDC and to mount and align a crank degree wheel. | ||
| Burrhead |
Thanks guys for the info and help but i believe its something inside the head and for me to take my bike apart with little knowledge of this engine and by what other certified techs say i don't feel comfortable to take it apart...so I'm looking for a knowledgeable and someone with proper | ||
| Burrhead |
Tools to help me with it or to fix it and I'll pay for it. | ||
| Nuts4mc |
Growing up in Cleveland, there is a large population that ride bikes (you may have to look East to find a tech)...in the early days of the 1125, this dealer was active in the repair and tuning of the 1125...hope this helps... http://www.westernreservehd.com/ | ||
| Burrhead |
well nuts western don't work on them anymore either...its getting sad that these dealerships use to work on them and now they are pulling the plug totally on them...just sucks | ||
| Dannybuell |
would it help to run a craigslist ad? someone in that town knows buells | ||
| Motorhead102482 |
How many miles are on it? Did you prove or disprove fire, fuel, compression? Those are the essential checks to make any further headway to know where you are and where you need to go. | ||
| Motorhead102482 |
just going to throw this out there. Working as a mechanic, when doing the fire, fuel, compression. I've been know to just disconnect the fuel injector and put my thumb over the spark plug hole and give the starter a quick spin for a compression check. You'll know if it's there. TRY AT YOUR OWN RISK. |
