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Buell Forum » 1125R Superbike Board » Archive through August 21, 2016 » New 1125CR Owner- Help with this damn idle please *Video* « Previous Next »

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Swine
Posted on Saturday, February 20, 2016 - 12:47 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hey BadWeb!

I recently picked up with 200 mile 2009 1125CR that idled fine when i bought and test rode, but the first full throttle run i did developed funky idle! Ive been lurking and searching trying to find some direction.

I have
-Flushed the fuel system
-Cleaned the IAC valve
-Battery checked out fine

How do i check my current flash revision?


Please check out the video and help me out! *Note-fuel level is not the issue.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rvS9sQtjqY8
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Mhpalin
Posted on Saturday, February 20, 2016 - 03:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Have tried a TPS reset
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Malott442
Posted on Saturday, February 20, 2016 - 03:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Have you taken it on a 20mile trip at steady speed? Even then, the fuel needs cleaned outta that sucker.

That would be step 1 of at least 20 different things.

I would start cheap and simple, only moving forward if the problem isn't resolved.


1. clean fuel and a moderate ride or two

2. TPS reset

3. Check TPS sensor feedback, IAC feedback, O2 sensor feedback.

4. Sell it to me for 800 bucks.

lol seriously I would try the easiet solution first. That bike has sat WAY too long with stagnant fuel in it (Stabil doesn't hold it forever)
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Dannybuell
Posted on Saturday, February 20, 2016 - 04:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Technically 200 miles is break-in mode.
I would get a service manual, change the oil (2 drains) and filter. Then put an extra amount of fuel injector cleaner in it and go for a steady rpm/speed ride at 55 or better to run that solvent through the system.

FWIW - everyone has their own opinion...when the engine is up to temp slowly raise and lower the rpm's to give varying loads on the engine. Try to maintain a load on the rings at 3,500 rpm's with an occasional rise up to 5,500 rpm's.
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Nuts4mc
Posted on Saturday, February 20, 2016 - 09:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

buy a digital voltmeter (walmart $30) and hook it to the battery....watch the read out as you idle and rev the motor...WASG the battery is NG - these things (the ECM) are very sensitive to voltage fluctuations - in the video the fans are running , the lights are on , you just pulled the reserve out of the batt by starting it...low RPM=low voltage output...the battery acts as a "buffer" to keep the ECM happy...kinda like having low voltage on your PC/cell phone...if the CPU doesn't see the correct voltage... it shuts down...hope this helps
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Flybysr1
Posted on Thursday, February 25, 2016 - 10:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Swine- I had my ECM reflashed to offroad only. Makes it run cooler at 2500rpm and below. US DOT emissions rules make them run lean down low.
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Swine
Posted on Wednesday, June 01, 2016 - 02:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

*UPDATE*

I havent made it much further since i started this thread. I have installed a drilled rotor, replaced the battery, cleaned and dielectric greased all the electrical connections. No improvement.

Got curious and started pulling injector plugs while it was running. Pulled the rear, immediately shut off. Pulled the front, no change to idle at all. SO, i have an issue with front cylinder fueling or ingition at idle. Rotated my coils and it seems to be slightly improved but no where near normal. So, now im thinking spark plug.

Of course it had the front cylinder....noooo it couldnt be the back one, that would have been to easy.



(Message edited by swine on June 01, 2016)
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Dannybuell
Posted on Wednesday, June 01, 2016 - 03:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

rotate coils?
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Swine
Posted on Wednesday, June 01, 2016 - 03:35 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Just tried that Danny, updated my previous post to reflect that information.
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Two_seasons
Posted on Wednesday, June 01, 2016 - 05:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Have you checked entire harness for critter damage?

I would NOT think your front plug needs replacing.

You need to do TPS reset after your engine has a good heat soak, then take it for a moderate ride (20 minutes) in closed loop mode (below 5K) and let it settle in when you get back and idle for several minutes.

Sitting that long, I would think you have fouled the front injector with gummy fuel. Do you have ethanol at the pump? FYI...I've used Amsoil gas stabilizer now for many years. One of my bikes just came off a 4.5 year nap, started right up, no idle issues, ran down the road at highway speed as it should No, I have zero financial interest in the product.

o You may have an exhaust leak(s).
o Get your battery load tested by a reputable company. These bikes require excellent voltage management to run correctly. As noted above, starting you bike multiple times and then just idling will really pull that battery down into the mud.
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Colintornado
Posted on Wednesday, June 01, 2016 - 06:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Try swoping injectors and see if cylinder that still runs also swops.
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Colintornado
Posted on Wednesday, June 01, 2016 - 06:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The manual explains how to do a plug clean without removing plugs,it is not that bad to remove the front plug with suitable tools.
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Swine
Posted on Wednesday, June 01, 2016 - 06:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

FYI have done the TPS reset several times, and i have Lucas fuel injector cleaner in the tank.

I have done most if not all of the easy stuff. Ive done most of the harder stuff. Now to pull the front plug and or swap injectors.
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Figorvonbuellingham
Posted on Thursday, June 02, 2016 - 06:34 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Try some Seafoam. Use a heavy dose (half a bottle), take a spirited ride then let it sit for a few day with the Seafoam saturated in the fuel system.

Do you know how to bring the codes up on the dash? Check those.

Check the idle air control valve.

What do the throttle body gaskets look like? Cracking?

Swap ecu with someone or buy a race ecu (you're gonna want one anyway) and see if that changes anything.

(Message edited by figorvonbuellingham on June 02, 2016)
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Swine
Posted on Thursday, June 02, 2016 - 01:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

*UPDATE #2*

Put the front plug in the back and NO CRANKY. I had the least suspicion of the plugs, go figure. Going to find plugs today right F'ing now and see if this is it.

Ill report back BW
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Swine
Posted on Friday, June 03, 2016 - 12:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ive managed to actually ride my BUELL 1125! Everything seems to be going well, damn thing gets hot very quickly at stop lights, i need to avoid traffic for sure

Feels good, thanks everyone who helped me trouble shoot the issues.

Now how do i flash a new tune into this ECU
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D_adams
Posted on Friday, June 03, 2016 - 05:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

http://idspd.com/xcart/products-buell/1125cr

Find the one that matches your exhaust. Some make significantly more power than others, at the expense of noise. Do your research.
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Nikoff90
Posted on Saturday, June 04, 2016 - 04:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Only other thing to do after sefoam in tank if you have idle or just off idle stumble is check for clean back sides to the butterflies in the throttle bodies. That heat makes them gum up and it affects the idle with very little gunk. My bike which I sold preferred non ethanol gas "night and day".
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