| Author | Message | ||
     Zhen13 |
I recently bought an 1125r 08 and it has had issues since I bought it . The motor runs fine ,but when you ride it it has a surging effect that I originally diagnosed as the clutch sticking. I read through my service manual and found a fix for that diagnosis was to bleed a hydraulic clutch and I did using a vacuum bleeder. Which did seem to help a little but the problem persisted. I had an issue with my 09 1125 CR that turned out to be a wire grounding out. But lead to similar symptoms as my 1125 R. Which caused me to examine my 1125 R for electrical shorts . I did not find any but I did notice the battery looked in poor condition seem to be leaking . So I replaced it with A new one I had . As soon as I did I blew two fuses . Which I replaced but when I try to replace the 30 amp fuse the battery fuse it would repeatedly blow. Which is leading me to believe there is a short between the battery in the fuse block or within the fuse block itself I was just wondering if that sounded logical to everyone else or if they had some other input they thought it could be ? | ||
| Terrys1980 |
Can you verify that the clutch slave cylinder has been upgraded? The factory piece was susceptible to grooves and leaks. That fuse goes three places; voltage regulator, key relay and fuse block. Unplug VR, remove all relays and all fuses then replace 30 main fuse. Install one at a time until the main fuse blows again. Here is the diagram.  | ||
| Zhen13 |
Thanks, Terry. Your the man. You solved both of my problems. I appreciate it. It turned out to be the voltage regulator, I tried it first because I suspected it. And that was exactly what it was. I had recently replaced the voltage regulator on my 09 1125cr I replaced the stock one (shunt) style with one from roadster cycle a CE 605 (series)regulator. It is supposed to be easier on the stator. I am also going to buy two of those English eBay improved slave cylinders for both of my 1125's. Again thanks for all your help! | ||
| Terrys1980 |
No problem glad I could help. Too bad about EBR isn't up. They use to sell the slave cylinder kit for $100. | ||
| Terrys1980 |
http://ebutik.nccr.se/ebr-erik-buell-racing-1/ebr- comfort/ebr-1190-rx-sx-oberon-easy-clutch-kit | ||
| Zhen13 |
I got the same ones off UK eBay for just under $200. I had to order two ouch! so it was a little expensive, but money well spent I think. I read the thread and watched the video. I feel fairly confident I can do the install. Any tips or advice? Thanks again for all your help. | ||
| Terrys1980 |
I just kind of winged it when I did my CR. Get something to push the air and fluid up.This is what I use. Marinade/turkey injector.  You can pull the dirty fluid out the reservoir and push clean fluid up from the bottom. Just don't push to hard or it will shoot a stream out the reservoir. Cover everything around the reservoir; the brake fluid will stain powder coating and damage plastic parts if not cleaned immediately. Don't expect the clutch to work perfectly when you first try to start after. When first trying to start my bike the clutch was grabbing when I would try to start it and the bike would jump. (Message edited by terrys1980 on September 03, 2015) | ||
| Zhen13 |
Hey Terry, I have to consult your expertise. I replaced (upgraded)my voltage regulator. But unfortunately it is still blowing the battery fuse. But strangely now if I disconnect the voltage regulator and replace the 30 amp battery fuse the fans come on with the ignition off. So I am thinking there's a problem with the key relay? If anyone has any suggestions they would be appreciated. | ||
| Terrys1980 |
That would be the only thing I can come up with besides a short in the harness somewhere. | ||
| Terrys1980 |
I would also consider checking your stator for shorts. There is youtube videos and such covering it... | ||
| Zhen13 |
Thanks, I checked it a couple weeks back. But will check it again. I am starting to think it might be the fuse-block which I can't seem to source anywhere. Whole thing started because I replaced the battery it shorted out when I was installing it and I saw a flash in the fuse-block and the battery fuse blew. After that no matter how many times I replaced it the fuse it. I tried what you said disconnected everything and as soon as I connect the voltage regulator it blows the fuse. So I was sure it was the regulator. So I replaced it. But after the replacement its still blowing the battery fuse. And now if I replace the battery fuse the fans run(with the regulator disconnected). The fans are not even on that circuit. So fuse block is only thing that makes sense. Starting to consider letting the dealer deal with it. Really don't want to go that route. But running out of options. | ||
| Zhen13 |
Checked the stator, no shorts to ground. | ||
| Zhen13 |
Ok, after staring at the wiring diagram above I noticed that the only wire shown on the negative side of the battery post is the main ground going to the frame. But on mine there is another wire going to the wiring harness. I am thinking perhaps when I was replacing the battery I connected a wire to negative post that should goto the positive post. So if anyone with an 08 1125r can confirm the only wire going to the negative battery post is the main ground wire going to the frame? and not to the harness? | ||
| Shawns |
Should be 2, 1 larger and 1 smaller | ||
| Zhen13 |
Thanks Shawn , I guess I am overthinking it. I am going check the battery itself. And the new regulator I guess it's possible it's a bad unit. | ||
| Zhen13 |
Ok, I figured it out. The whole problem was installer error(mine). First let me put my ego aside, I am a moron ( representing morons everywhere). I was driving to go workout. And I started thinking about everything everyone said and some other threads that I read about similar issues. I spoke to my voltage regulator supplier and told him what was happening, and he said the only reason that would be if the positive wire and negative wire were reversed so I checked the wiring and everything checked out. But while driving this morning it dawned on me, when I replaced the battery it was a Harley battery positive terminal on the right(facing the rear of the bike) negetive terminal on the left . But the battery I replaced it with is a diehard positive terminal on the left , negetive terminal on the right. The exact opposite of the Harley battery. So I am a moron, and yet again assumption is the mother of all fu**ups. So now I will rewire the battery properly. And access any damage done. There reason I am sharing my stupidly with everyone, is in hopes of helping any of my fellow morons out there. Who might have made the same mistake. Big thanks to Terry and Shawn for their assistance. ( I will wear my dunce cap for the rest of the day) | ||
| Panshovevo |
Ouch! It would be a challenge to make the cables reach across the battery without butchering the harness, and possibly buying longer cables. Might be easier to buy another battery with the correct terminal orientation. Not saying it can't be done... | ||
| Zhen13 |
Ok, I have my first causality. I noticed as soon as I turned on the bike I did not hear the fuel pump. Sure enough I checked the fuel pump fuse and it was blown. So I replaced it and it blew again. So I am thinking the pump fried. Does anyone know know where I can source an affordable one? Or have any install advice? | ||
| Zhen13 |
I found this online there's a ton of useful electrical information . link removed (Message edited by Froggy on September 11, 2015) | ||
| Terrys1980 |
Actually the fuel pumps for these bikes are relatively cheap. I do believe it is the same as the ol fox body Mustangs. I'll have to do some searching on the subject. | ||
| Zhen13 |
I found one on eBay for $18 that's comes with a 2 yr warranty. I figure I have nothing to lose. | ||
| Michaelyancy42 |
I'm having the same issue did the fuel pump fix it?? |
