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Buell Forum » 1125R Superbike Board » Stator/Voltage Regulator/Charging System subforum » Stator Failure Mechinism « Previous Next »

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Coastrambler
Posted on Tuesday, July 07, 2015 - 07:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

OK, I'm going wade into it one more time. I believe what is causing the stator to fail is the voltage regulator. We, '09 1125 people, have a high stator failure rate due to the VR being a shunt type. This causes the alternator (stator/rotor) to be tasked with full output capability at all times. Thus causing the stator to heat up till it eventually fails. This is not unique to our machines, Ducatis among others suffer this too. Added cooling of the stator, ie EBR modified rotor helps. The system is marginal to begin with so any added cooling is good. Marginal in that it, the alternator, is close to being OK. I had a stock setup go 18,000 miles before failing. The best fix is a series VR. This draws only the power needed from the alternator. Thus the stator runs cooler. Added benefit is it's cheaper and easier to implement. I've 8,000+ miles on my series VR, stock rotor. VR runs barely warm to the touch. And that HD "fix" should definitely be tossed.
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Classic_physique
Posted on Thursday, July 09, 2015 - 09:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

What type are you using model, manufacturer?
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Coastrambler
Posted on Friday, July 10, 2015 - 02:51 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Compu-Fire 55402, I forget where I got it. I also added a voltage monitor from the J&P catalog. Velcroed it to the fairing brace. It's comforting to see the 2 green bars.
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Squish
Posted on Tuesday, August 04, 2015 - 09:41 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

What is causing the stator to fail is stator material breakdown from too high of a heat load. The stator materials cannot tolerate the excessive heat load (i.e., burns-up) and quickly fails. This could also be termed "poor design".

The choices to correct the poor design are:

1. Build a stator that can tolerate extremely high temperatures, or

2. Lower the temperature of the stator to a level the stator materials can reliably tolerate.

Solution #1, if it is possible, would be extremely expensive (like, say, a NASA project). Solution #2 is more cost-effective. To lower the stator temp, there are a couple of paths - as you mention, a series Voltage Regulator. Or the modified rotor with the oil-cooling jet. Or if your if you’re like me, paranoid, you can do both. I guess I am not that worried about it though….have almost 8,000 miles on the stock system with my 2009 model. I keep the oil-level topped all the way up.

See you down in Cruz sometime.
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Figorvonbuellingham
Posted on Tuesday, August 04, 2015 - 10:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Over on the AF 1 Aprilia Caponord ETV 1000 forum, the first thing they recommend to new owners of these old machines is to replace the voltage regulator with a mosfet type. There are a few stories of stator failure but nothing like ours. The caponords have chronic coil failures amongst other things. I found it interesting that they replace the rec/regs as their engines are Rotax vtwins as well.
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Footstuck
Posted on Saturday, October 31, 2015 - 01:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hi
did you post up a thread for installing your Compu-Fire 55402 I'm belt and braces also, but so far:
EBR Rotor and twinmotorcycles stator with HD loom removed
Would be interested in the location / additional wiring ect
Regards FS
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