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Buell Forum » 1125R Superbike Board » Archive through July 27, 2015 » Valve lash 12,000 $ ? « Previous Next »

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Sinistercr
Posted on Saturday, June 20, 2015 - 09:53 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

My cr will hit 12,000 soon valve lash who an how much I'm in west Michigan
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Brokengq
Posted on Sunday, June 21, 2015 - 12:29 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I hate to be "that guy" but it would be cheaper to buy the necessary tools and do it yourself than pay someone to do it. Most shops that have quoted me in the past want between $550 and $800 to do it. It's honestly not hard work. Just time consuming. I wouldn't trust anyone (especially someone you haven't used before) to touch the upper end of my bike.
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Sinistercr
Posted on Sunday, June 21, 2015 - 09:06 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks for the info I've considered doing it my self but I have a pretty vague idea of what I need to do it .
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Thefleshrocket
Posted on Sunday, June 21, 2015 - 12:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

$12000 seems a little expensive for a valve adjustment.. LOL

I had my 12K adjustment done a few thousand miles early, several years ago, at Dales Harley Davidson in Mt. Vernon, IL. They were having a "half off labor" winter special and I think I paid under $300 for the work.

That doesn't do you any good since it's not winter, you don't live nearby, and who knows if they'll continue to offer that special, or if they even have a Buell mechanic on staff any more.

If I had the time (I don't) or the motivation (also negatory), I'd do it myself, so it's up to you if you want to do it.
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Sinistercr
Posted on Sunday, June 21, 2015 - 01:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Maybe Rotax mechanic is the way to go?
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Stirz007
Posted on Tuesday, June 23, 2015 - 04:31 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The most difficult part for DIYr's(especially first time through) is working out your 'system' for rotating or removing engine. You must do this to access and remove the valve covers. The valve adjustment process itself is a little tedious, but not difficult. Then manual pretty much walks you through the entire procedure. Shop time to rotate and reinstall engine is what eats up most of the quoted $500-800.
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Cf_z
Posted on Tuesday, June 23, 2015 - 05:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

How many of you that have done it yourself actually found an adjustment necessary at 12k?

Considering normal engine use, not 12k miles of 9,000 rpm. : )
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Froggy
Posted on Tuesday, June 23, 2015 - 05:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)


quote:


How many of you that have done it yourself actually found an adjustment necessary at 12k?

Considering normal engine use, not 12k miles of 9,000 rpm. : )




That was the case in both my 1125s, both mine rarely see over 5000RPM, and the valves were still perfect. My CR will be due again in a few weeks, so I'll see how it looks after the second interval.

As for cost, it was under $500 for mine to get done at an independent shop experienced with the 1125, including other things with the service.
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Fresnobuell
Posted on Tuesday, June 23, 2015 - 08:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

MY 12K service was done when the motor was pulled for a pitted cam replacement under warranty at about 10K miles IIRC.

Valves were good. ONe was a little tight, but otherwise looked good. And my bike rarely sees RPMs under 5,000 unlike Froggy.
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Bertman
Posted on Tuesday, June 23, 2015 - 11:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I did the engine rotation check myself at 12,000 miles. Everything came out within spec.

24,000 miles decided to let the dealer do the work to also show some history in case some warranty question might come up in the future. $1000.00 later, still in spec. Pissed me off spending that money would be an understatement.

Put off 3rd check till 52,000 miles after buying an engine stand from Stirz007 and did a frame off evaluation. Every valve was real tight and needed six new shims (swapping 2 old ones) to get back into spec.

If your mechanically inclined it is no big deal frame on or frame off, just take you time.
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Fresnobuell
Posted on Wednesday, June 24, 2015 - 05:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I am close to the 24,000 interval so this may be a winter project...don't know that I care tho as the motor runs SWEEEEET.
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Panshovevo
Posted on Wednesday, June 24, 2015 - 08:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Froggy, you have way more willpower than I...
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Dennis_c
Posted on Wednesday, June 24, 2015 - 11:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Froggy must drive his bikes like a little old lady 5000 RPM hell I am at 10,000 with the front wheel 3ft in air in second gear and I am 72 yrs young on 1125R + I will never get the gas millage you do. ON valve lash at 12,000 miles 3 were to tight one was at min. All were in the lower half.
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