| Author | Message | ||
     B1rdman |
Hey everyone, I'm so ecstatic about finally being able to buy a 1125cr. Ever since I first saw one I knew I would one day get one. I've owned an SV650('01), R6 ('04), ZX6R ('07), Buell X1 ('01), Daytona 650 ('05), CBR1000RR ('06), and now this 2009 1125cr. Anyways, I've been doing some reading on everything, so hopefully won't ask too many stupid/repetitive questions: Mine is a 2009 1125cr with 3500 miles. I looked and the Solenoid has been plugged but not removed yet. I'll check the butterflies to make sure they are zip tied. I was told all recalls were up to date, but am guessing that the stator hasn't been upgraded. What are some signs that it's going out? It has a trickle charger cable already installed so I'll probably go invest in one and keep it on that most of the time. However it started up on first try after sitting for at least 5 months. It has a Jardine carbon slipon and I'm about to put on a K&N that was included with it. Does it NEED a tune to handle those two items? I've looked for a race ecm but haven't seen any for sale recently. I know I can flash my current ecm so will need to buy a cable and software to do that. Along with those two options, I ALSO was given TWO Jardine Pro-Tune 3 programmers. I know they aren't as good or recommended, as they just piggyback, but I do have them sitting here. The first one doesn't use 02 sensors (Carb legal?) and the other one does use them. If I were to install one (until I can flash the ecm or buy a race), which would be better to use? And I've read that you can pretty much play around with it without messing up the bike since they don't let you get too crazy with the parameters? Right now it doesn't seem to backfire or anything but does surge at slow cruising speeds. I know to counter that I can keep the rpms up or try. I've seen people doing an intake mod where they remove the inner cover...is that all there is to it? Any tuning needed? Any drawbacks to that? It makes a loud initial pop on [cold] startup...is that normal? I've heard Harleys do that before, but don't remember my eX-1 (lol) doing that. Does anyone weigh around 130lbs and have their suspension setup for that weight that could share their settings? Does anyone have a chin spoiler for sale? Where can I tie in a USB so that it runs off the accessory switch or when the bike is running? I saw the accessory fuse but want to tie it into a wire, not plug it redneck style in with the fuse. Or should I avoid adding one due to the potential stator problems? I'll try to keep any future questions here so that I don't clog up the forum lol  | ||
| Froggy |
There is no upgrade for the stator, and the issue that causes them to fail is not the stator, but the rotor cup that surrounds it. The stock one does not provide adequate oil circulation at lower RPMs, causing it to eventually fail. If you keep it above 5k you would likely never have an issue. The fix is to get the rotor modified, previously by EBR but now likely only done by Twin Motorcycles, the modification allows for better cooling of the stator.
It is not always easy to tell, as the voltage can fluctuate a lot even with a perfectly healthy system, but you can disconnect the connector coming from the stator and check the AC voltage across all three legs to verify it is still healthy.
Yep, I'd even argue it needs a tune even bone stock, the EPA compliant stock tune leaves much to be desired, and running an aftermarket exhaust just exasperates the issue.
I have no advice for you regarding those tuners, so I'm going to skip this
Yep all you need to do is remove the top part of the inner cover. No tuning needed, but removing the cover makes the intake significantly louder, and any power gains/losses have been debated.
Normal, but does it less once you have a tune.
Pop off the flyscreen, you will see a grey 2 pin plug, that is the accessory outlet. You can put pins in the dummy plug it comes with, or you can get the Ulysses 12v outlet and plug that in, from there tie in your USB port to that. http://americansportbike.com/newdir/Item/17550 | ||
| Brokengq |
My 1125 does that loud pop on startup all the time if it's been sitting. Normal. Piece of advice, don't even install the Jardine. You'll regret it. Sell it and get a better exhaust. As far as tuning goes, get in touch with Michael Cobb at Xopti Inside. He's your man. | ||
| B1rdman |
Thanks Frank! Chris, as you can see in the picture I attached, the Jardine exhaust is already installed...I don't have a stock muffler either. I'd like to get a Keda RT-1 for it though. Or D&D. Or the stock exhaust modified to be much louder (I saw the MT-1 option, but don't think it'll be loud enough). | ||
| Yankeerl |
Tuners are a band aid on these. it will help them run smoother, but drink a lot of gas (PC V). The ECM changes timing tables as well and will fix the heat and drivability issues along with pretty good fuel economy. hopefully you can find one or have someone tune yours. The bike is a blast, you will love it. recommend buying a service manual, $60 is much cheaper than learning the hard way (don't ask). lots of info here, great people, very helpful. | ||
| B1rdman |
Actually, it came with a new service manual! Would throwing on one of those tuners be better than leaving it on stock tune with K&N and Jardine? Without a dyno and wideband I'd be shooting in the dark it seems in terms of adding/subtracting fuel but I've read quite a few posts about people just adding what feels right to them (on this board). | ||
| Yankeerl |
I would contact the makers of the tuner and ask their recommendations. guessing its just going to richen the low and mid range. above 5k RPM is pretty smooth stock. u can also look at the PC website maps and get an idea of where they add the fuel. sorry no experience with either of those tuners. the tuners will smooth the low end and help with temperature control, but at the expense of fuel mileage. my PCV dropped mpg to around 25, but it ran cooler and smoother below 5k. | ||
| B1rdman |
The tuner adjusts idle, cruise, mid throttle, wot, and how soon to add them, all throughout rpms. | ||
| B1rdman |
Tried using that grey accessory connector behind the windscreen but not getting any power from it. Tried with key in "ON" and "Parking/Accessory". I'll use a volt meter when I get home from work in the morning. The USB I'm using is brand new, no reason to believe it's defective. Fuses checked good. | ||
| Nuts4mc |
there is a delay as to power "on" with the grey connector...it's for heated grips...the designers most likely want to get the engine started (the starter draws a lot of Amps) to give the battery a chance to recover...hope this helps (Message edited by nuts4mc on May 07, 2015) | ||
| Javaman21011 |
Hmm I had my stator burn out within 2k miles or so and HD changed it out, but that was a year or 2 ago when they still servived Buells.. Do you recommend changing the 2nd one out to the Twin Motors before it too eventually goes out? | ||
| Froggy |
B1rdman, the accessory outlet is ECM controlled and will not turn on if the kill switch is set to off or the voltage is too low. If you start the bike the outlet should turn on. Javaman21011, simply putting in a new stator fixes nothing, and eventually the issue is going to pop up again as it is not fixing the cause of the issue. At this point I would budget for the kit from Twin Motorcycles as it includes a modified rotor to fix the issue. | ||
| B1rdman |
Thanks guys, 1) Does anyone else have suspension settings I could copy who weigh around 130lbs? 2) Does anyone else have a Jardine ProTune 3, Jardine pipe and K&N that could share their tuner settings? This is just while I wait for a used race ecm to pop up. | ||
| Javaman21011 |
How hard is it to install the stator myself? Or should I let a Buell tech do it? | ||
| Terrys1980 |
Like Froggy said, it's pointless to change the stator without the rotor mod. There are instructional posts on here and videos on YT for the whole process of the charging system upgrade. | ||
| Froggy |
The stator part itself is not bad to change out, it is the rotor that is the pain as it requires the crankshaft locking tool, and a torque wrench or similar tool that can put down 300Ft-Lbs of torque to put it back together. | ||
| Javaman21011 |
Yikes, sounds really difficult and/or dangerous | ||
| B1rdman |
Love the hijack! | ||
| Zac4mac |
Harbor freight sells a 25" long 1/2" drive breaker bar for something like $20. 150 lb. at 3 o'clock is 300 ft.-lb. tight. Use the right Loctite - Red Hi-Temp 272 Stator change is indeed a bitch. When you remove the old one, attach a wire to the stator wires and pull it thru the sheathing the wire's in. Tape the wire to the new wires and pull them back thru the original sheath. Beats the hell out of re-routing the wires from scratch.. Zack <edit> I remember pulling the OEM wires(3) one at a time out of the sheath. (Message edited by zac4mac on May 16, 2015) | ||
| Zac4mac |
OBTW Tighten to 210 ft-lb. Back off 720 degrees(2 turns) Tighten to 295-300 ft-lb. Drink a beer! | ||
| Tbowdre |
At 130 pounds you will need lighter springs in your forks and rear shock. I bought mine from race tech. |
