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Robglab
Posted on Thursday, April 09, 2015 - 09:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Crank crank crank BOOM. What now?
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Robglab
Posted on Thursday, April 09, 2015 - 10:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I just bought a 2009 1125r I drove it like 200 miles and now it won't start. The problem is intermittent. After about 3 attempts it will backfire. I pulled the rear plug, getting good spark. I'm pretty sure it is getting fuel because of the backfire. I'm not sure what to check now. Any advice wod be appreciated. The bike is stock as far as I know
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Two_seasons
Posted on Thursday, April 09, 2015 - 10:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Lots of things go goofy if your battery isn't 100 percent.
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Mhpalin
Posted on Thursday, April 09, 2015 - 10:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Is it backfiring through the exh. or the throttle bodies? If it is through the throttle bodies some times it will blow them off a bit check to see if they are on.Happened to me in 2010
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Rodrob
Posted on Thursday, April 09, 2015 - 11:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Could be a bad or intermittent or loose crank position sensor.
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The_dude
Posted on Friday, April 10, 2015 - 05:46 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Maybe related... Before I bought my X1 10 years ago, it sat in a garage for 3-4 years. Ran like shit until I changed both injectors. After that, I dropped it on my first test ride - it had twice as much power as I was expecting.
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Robglab
Posted on Friday, April 10, 2015 - 09:55 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Is there a way to troubleshoot the crank pos sensor. And where can I find a crank pos sensor and fuel injectors
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S21125r
Posted on Friday, April 10, 2015 - 10:09 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The good news is that it can be one of 3 things: Fuel, Spark, or Compression :-) Try the obvious ones first like charging you battery and checking the front and rear main wire harness grounding points.

Do the plug cleaning routine - key off, twist the throttle to full on and hold, and then key on with NO starter. It's not a cure all but saves the grief of changing the front plug if it's only lightly fouled.

Then try a TPS reset - key on, throttle full on and hold for a second, throttle full off and hold for a second, then repeat total of 3 times, then key off.

You can get into diag mode by holding down both cluster buttons and turning the key on - there you will find all sorts of useful info on fuel pressure, TPS value, AFV for front rear etc. Report back on what diag is showing for values for fuel pressure and AFVs.

If you think its a fuel related problem then pull the airbox off until you can see the butterflies. Open the throttle and squirt a little starting fluid down each throttle body and then try to start it (be safe). Depending on what the outcome is along with the diag values are we might be able to guide you a little deeper.
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Robglab
Posted on Friday, April 10, 2015 - 10:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

So I guess the battery needed love, the bike starts right up but seems less powerful. Like it is missing on the front cylinder. It just feels flat, it also smells rich. The O2 sensor voltage fluctuates under throttle only on the rear cylinder. On the front it stays right at .9 I'm not sure what normal is for the diagnostic readings if someone could run through a good running one and let me know for a baseline I think that may help. Thanks all.
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The_dude
Posted on Sunday, April 12, 2015 - 08:34 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

My X1 figured out how to run on one cylinder. You probably have a bad spray pattern from one or both injectors. I made the mistake of thinking I needed only one new injector. I tried cleaning them, soaking them... I disassembled that thing at least six times before I broke down and spent a few bucks on new injectors.
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Figorvonbuellingham
Posted on Sunday, April 12, 2015 - 10:35 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Pull the idle air control (iac) and clean it up real good. They can get carbon build up on them. You can try shooting son carb cleaner down it before removal and see if that will do it. I had to disassemble mine put it on a lathe and polish it.
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Nobuell
Posted on Monday, April 13, 2015 - 10:25 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The O2 voltage will alway fluctuate. My bet is a fouled plug due to the battery failure. Plugs are inexpensive, replace them.
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Robglab
Posted on Monday, April 13, 2015 - 01:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I ordere. New plugs yesterday. Should be there tomorrow. How do I clean the idle air control valve?/ valves? And where can I buy new injectors?

Thanks all
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Nobuell
Posted on Monday, April 13, 2015 - 02:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Both from HD.

The IAC is a stepper motor operated valve that allows a small amount of air to bypass the butterfly valves when closed allowing the motor to idle. Carb Cleaner can be sprayed into the IAC oriface. I would stuff rags in the throttle body to catch the nasty stuff.

The IAC will not cause the bike to not start but it cannot hurt to clean it.
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Dannybuell
Posted on Monday, April 13, 2015 - 05:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

could a rheostat be hooked up to the IAC stepper motor so the amount of engine braking could be tuned in real time?
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Robglab
Posted on Tuesday, April 14, 2015 - 05:05 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I put new plugs in, I checked the front coil to make sure there was spark, no joy. What would cause the front coil not to fire? I switched the coils to be sure, the coil is good, there is just nothing going to the coil I am going to start following the coil wire backwards
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Robglab
Posted on Wednesday, April 15, 2015 - 11:13 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

What else could I check? The coil is fine, I checked it by putting it on the back cyl. There are no obvious wires unplugged. The center wire on both terminals are a good ground. And the grey wires on both are switched power. When I swap the coils I get the same result. I don't want to take it to the dealer to get raped but I'm running out of ideas.
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