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Buell Forum » 1125R Superbike Board » Archive through April 16, 2015 » EBR Front Brake Rotor Bolt Kit « Previous Next »

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Rogue_biker
Posted on Friday, March 06, 2015 - 04:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

So I finally installed one on my '08 R.

I changed nothing else except to install the new kit. All I can say is wow! For $50 this upgrade can't be beat!

Before the upgrade, my brake lever would ALWAYS travel halfway before I felt resistance. Then there was a slight bit more travel to get it to finally slow the bike down. And the lever always felt spongy. Yes. I bled the front brake regularly. I even took the caliper off the fork, flipped it so the bleed valve was facing up, then bled it. That improved the lever travel and stiffness but it only lasted a 500 miles then it was back to the long travel, spongy lever.

After the EBR kit install, now the brake lever travel has been reduced. My rough guess is before the lever traveled 1/2 of the way before resistance is felt. With the bolt kit the lever travel is now 1/3 before braking power is felt. Also, the feel is improved and stays consistent. The sponginess has been reduced considerably.

Best damn $50 I ever spent.
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Zac4mac
Posted on Friday, March 06, 2015 - 11:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The new kit makes a change from a floating rotor to a solid mount.
The reasoning being "sink more heat into the wheel to keep the rotor cooler".
At the same time, the caliper cooling scoop helps the fluid stay liquid, not a gas.

Pretty sure you can thank Jim Duggar for this advance.

I'll be getting a kit for Loretta while she's down for an 1190 bump.
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Thefleshrocket
Posted on Friday, March 06, 2015 - 11:48 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

How does the bolt kit decrease the amount of travel in the lever before the brake is activated? Is it because the stock bolts allow the rotor to float, and that float is slowly working the pistons back into the caliper?
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Dannybuell
Posted on Saturday, March 07, 2015 - 11:11 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

taking the float out makes a NOW response with level travel. lever movement that was aligning the rotor now goes into braking.
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Sprintst
Posted on Saturday, March 07, 2015 - 03:53 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Interesting. I installed the kit and couldn't really tell a difference.


stock MC rebuild kit didn't do the job, so it's Nissin radial or Brembo MC time for me

(Message edited by sprintst on March 07, 2015)
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Rogue_biker
Posted on Sunday, March 08, 2015 - 12:23 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I had planned to upgrade to the Nissin Radial MC too. But after the bolt upgrade, I'm having second thoughts because the feel and lever travel is so much improved.
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Stirz007
Posted on Monday, March 09, 2015 - 09:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

One trade-off for this (money well spent) upgrade is that it will transfer heat into the wheel more quickly. Monitor front tire pressure closely under hard braking/cornering conditions - ask me how I know.
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Nobuell
Posted on Monday, March 09, 2015 - 09:50 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Stirz - How much of a pressure increase did you see? What was the ambient?
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Stirz007
Posted on Tuesday, March 10, 2015 - 02:06 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

At 80-90 ambient, I've seen front pressure increase by 6-8 lb.(Dunlop slicks) between coming off warmers and coming off track. Suffice it to say that gridding up at 'correct' pressure did not work out so well on at least one instance. For street, I think rim heating is a likely non-issue, but for track/racing the perimeter rotor adds significantly more heat to the front tire than conventional brake systems and is worth keeping an eye on, IMO. (Opinions and results may vary)
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Smoke4ndmears
Posted on Tuesday, March 10, 2015 - 08:12 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Rogue, save your money and just track down a take-off master cylinder from a 04-09 FZ6. I had the Nissins, and they really weren't that much better than the Brembo from the FZ6, plus they require clipons, upper tripple, and steering stop limiter.
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Nobuell
Posted on Tuesday, March 10, 2015 - 01:53 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Stirz,

I run Michelin Cups. Michelin recommends setting the tire pressure at ambient not hot like the Dunlop's. I have not verified the hot temperature because of their recommendation. I asked the Michelin tire guy about the different methodology and he said the end result is more consistent ultimate tire pressures.

Mid April, I have a track weekend to shake out the bike from the winter Mods prior to race season. I will have to do some hot checks and see where the temperatures go.

Interesting issue though.
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Fresnobuell
Posted on Tuesday, March 10, 2015 - 03:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Does anyone run the finned rotor with the new hardware? I run the finned rotor, upgraded hardware, EBC HH? pads & Accossato radial M/C. Talk about a different feel from the stock stup. Definitely a brake setup more for track than street as it is pretty horrible when cold, but impressive when there is some heat in the system.

Stock system never came close to the cold/hot variance I experience with this system. In these cool opening days of the riding season, the only time I can get enough heat in the brakes is on the backroad twisties. When they get good and heated up I find myself braking too early on corner entries because the stopping power has increased. Again, another problem I never worried about with the stock brakes/rotor.

That finned rotor and new hardware seem to be doing an excellent job at dissipating heat. That, along with my more track oriented pads, probably explains what's going in my case. I sure hope my Q3s are heating up quicker than my brakes!
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Snacktoast
Posted on Tuesday, March 10, 2015 - 03:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

What you're feeling is likely the performance of those pads when they're cold. They work better with more heat, but sacrifice some performance when cold which is pretty typical for a performance pad. I'm assuming the pads have been properly bedded.
It has nothing to do with the rotor, mounting hardware or Accossato master cylinder.
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99buellx1
Posted on Tuesday, March 10, 2015 - 04:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

That's the exact reason that I never recommend any of the track pads that have been listed on the EBR site for daily use.
All of those require even more heat than the HH's.
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Stirz007
Posted on Tuesday, March 10, 2015 - 04:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Currently running finned rotor, EBR hardware, Brembo MC, 2015 pads. As said, race pads are generally designed for race conditions where hard braking every 20-30 seconds for extended periods is not uncommon.
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Snacktoast
Posted on Tuesday, March 10, 2015 - 04:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

There's a reason that they're listed as "race use only" by EBR.
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Nobuell
Posted on Tuesday, March 10, 2015 - 09:35 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have the same setup as Stirz except I am going to the SBS pads. Not only do track pads need the hard usage to work correctly but most wear fast and leave a lot of deposits on the wheel. Not conducive for street riding.
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Fresnobuell
Posted on Wednesday, March 11, 2015 - 02:27 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)


quote:

It has nothing to do with the rotor, mounting hardware or Accossato master cylinder.




Finned rotor and mounting hardware are purported to reduce heat, so I wouldn't go as far as to say they have nothing to do with it. I ran similar pads with the stock floating rotor and didn't have the same issues keeping enough heat in the system. As I stated, ambient temps have been cool so this may not be an issue in the coming months.
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