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Buell Forum » 1125R Superbike Board » Archive through February 12, 2015 » How many had starter "sprag" clutch issues, « Previous Next »

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Oldog
Posted on Sunday, November 30, 2014 - 11:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

1. what oil are / were you running
2. what mileage did the issue surface
3. what were the initial symptoms?

back ground
My bike seems to be getting hard to start, the starter whinnies pulling the motor thru the comp strokes and seems to be pulling hard. usually I stop a second and try again and it starts, However some times it disengages from the motor and you hear the starter spool up with out the engine being moved. I just replaced the battery and it is placed on a tender when not in use?

your observations are requested.

Tia Jim..
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Brokengq
Posted on Monday, December 01, 2014 - 12:30 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Saw mine go less than 1k miles after buying bike from PO. He was running royal purple 20w50 and it had about 10k miles. Since switched to amsoil 20w50 (less than 100 miles after buying the bike) fixed the problem and haven't had any since.
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Oldog
Posted on Monday, December 01, 2014 - 12:34 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks Broke,
Huh, problem does not seem too wide spread
I am afraid that mine may be going south, whats good was I just rotated the engine and I always clean the screen then it was clear of any "chunks" no glitter in the oil but some fuzz on the drain magnet,

More please folks ...
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Stevel
Posted on Monday, December 01, 2014 - 04:20 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have stated in previous posts that sprag oiling is an issue. It is oiled by waste oil from end crank bearing with an indirect path to the internal spag elements. Sprag failure will occur eventually. Adding an additional oil path is also problematic, as excess oil volume is insufficient from the pump to provide the oil required without loss of oiling at the top end of the motor.
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Nobuell
Posted on Monday, December 01, 2014 - 11:13 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

My 1125 has about 12K miles and is now used for track duty only. I started have problems at the last track event in October. By the end of the day, getting the bike started was hit or miss. Bad when the oil was cold but a bit better when hot. The last track event had 38 deg F morning temps.

I purchased all of the replacement parts but have not pulled the side off. I dumped the oil and found the normal metallic hairs on the plug. I pulled the screen and found nothing other than a couple speck of the damper rotor epoxy.

I plan to pull it apart next weekend. I need to borrow a big calibrated torque wrench from my company QC department.

I replaced the rotor nut last year and used the specified thread locker and 300 lbft of torque. It should be a blast to remove. Last time I lined the rotor with High temperature Silicone sponge rubber and then fashioned a sheet metal guard mounted inside of the sponge. This was in a effort to keep as much heat away for the rotor as possible.
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2734
Posted on Monday, December 01, 2014 - 12:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Mine went out 2 years ago at about 28K on the clock.

I was using whatever HD put in it at the time.

I use AMSOIL now.
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Nobuell
Posted on Monday, December 01, 2014 - 02:02 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I forgot to mention that I run Motul 300V 15W50
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Two_seasons
Posted on Monday, December 01, 2014 - 04:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

No issues here. FSM says to always start the bike in neutral. Does it make a difference, load wise, on the sprag? Verses starting in gear with the clutch pulled in.

I too use Amsoil 20w-50.
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Brokengq
Posted on Monday, December 01, 2014 - 06:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

@two_seasons

I would imagine that it does. It would increase the amount of "fight back" or resistance the bike has on start up. The bike has a slipper clutch, and just like any race clutch it is always ever so slightly engaged. Especially when the bike is off and there is no vacuum to the clutch. You'll notice it if you try to start the bike while in gear. The bike will jump forward when you engage the starter. This extra load on the starter and sprag clutch can lead to premature failure due to 1) the weight of the bike and 2) the friction of the wheels to the ground.

So yes, IMO always start the bike in neutral.

(Message edited by brokenGQ on December 01, 2014)
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Matteson
Posted on Monday, December 01, 2014 - 06:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You will hear a definite loud metallic clank if it doesn't fire.
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Jwoody
Posted on Wednesday, December 10, 2014 - 02:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Mine just went, back in August. 21,500 miles. I have been using AMSOil since I bought it in mid-summer 2011. I picked up the bike with 2,225 miles.

Symptoms were the usual as reported by others. Awful grinding sound, sometimes it wouldn't start. I can could just hear it spinning and then maybe it would catch.

Since I put in the parts its worked great starts immediately every time. I always start in Neutral with the clutch level pulled. I have a few pics of the destruction on my phone I need to upload.

-J

(Message edited by JWoody on December 10, 2014)
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Coastrambler
Posted on Thursday, December 11, 2014 - 01:13 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Mine went out at 38,800 miles. Got to where all that was happening was the starter spinning. So $500 for parts later all is well.
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Matteson
Posted on Saturday, December 13, 2014 - 09:55 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Remember, if replacing this and any of the starter parts involved have wear they should be replaced. The surfaces on the housing and the starter gear that slides into the sprag need to be replaced if this is what you find. Very expensive fix. Just another reason why I sold the Buell.
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Dannybuell
Posted on Saturday, December 13, 2014 - 10:22 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

It is better to be wise than right.
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Nobuell
Posted on Saturday, December 13, 2014 - 03:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If you think the Buell prices are high, you should try Ducati or KTM.
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