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Dannybuell
Posted on Thursday, August 07, 2014 - 11:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

What do you guys think about this for the 1125?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nissin-Black-Radial-Brake- Master-Cylinder-Kit-19mm-Piston-17-656B-/161188516 640?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2587 959320&vxp=mtr
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Smoke4ndmears
Posted on Friday, August 08, 2014 - 06:58 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/21/ 745626.html?1407158008

I am selling a set of these. They work great, but you will not fit on the stock upper triple tree due to the extensions that hold the bars. So you need a new upper triple or to cut off the extensions on the factory triple. This, of course, means you need clip-ons. Oh, and now that your controls are that much lower, you need the steering stop limiter.
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Shawns
Posted on Friday, August 08, 2014 - 11:30 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

What about these? http://www.ebay.com/itm/360987345292?_trksid=p2055 119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
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Kruizen
Posted on Friday, August 08, 2014 - 01:19 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Shawns I did one of those from china, only lasted 2 track days. Not recommended.
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Dannybuell
Posted on Friday, August 08, 2014 - 04:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Smoke4ndmears do you think that would be the same for the CR?
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Ak_addict
Posted on Friday, August 08, 2014 - 10:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'm thinking of trying a master cylinder from a Yamaha FZ8. It's a 16mm Brembo unit, only $123 from Partzilla and no pee cup. http://www.partzilla.com/parts/detail/yamaha/YP-2D 1-W2587-00-00.html

If your not worried about a mirror mount a 04-09 FZ6 master is also 16mm Brembo and cheap used on ebay. The mirror mount is there just not drilled and again no pee cup.

I've read reviews stating that both are radial? So who wants to be the guinea pig.
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Dhays1775
Posted on Friday, August 08, 2014 - 11:53 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I suggest a 19mm on the clutch and brake both. Absolutely amazing in the difference. Use caution when getting used to it. I almost dumped my CR because I was trying to "take up the slack" and almost locked up the front wheel.

19mm from a 2010 GSXR-1000 and a 19mm clutch master from a 2013 ZX-14. Serious upgrades. Both are Nissin, both used, and only cost ~$200 for both.
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Rodrob
Posted on Sunday, August 10, 2014 - 02:38 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

A 16mm MC is not sufficient for the 1125R
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Ak_addict
Posted on Sunday, August 10, 2014 - 08:28 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

A "16mm MC is not sufficient for the 1125R"
Have you tried one?
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Rodrob
Posted on Sunday, August 10, 2014 - 12:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

No. I would not put a dangerously miss-mached MC on my bike. The Caliper is an 8 piston design and requires a minimum fluid volume, which a 16MM piston will not supply with the available travel. The Nissin-GSXR/KAWI/Daytona 19MM is a good option. I have one on my Race bike and like it better than the Accossato I have on my street bike.
I have a 20mm Beringer MC on my 1190RS. That is the best MC I have found.


(Message edited by rodrob on August 10, 2014)
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Ak_addict
Posted on Sunday, August 10, 2014 - 01:35 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

No. I would not put a dangerously miss-mached MC on my bike.

Well I figured seeing the stock unit is 14mm a 16mm might be an improvement. Maybe all Buell owners with the ZTL2 brakes should file a report with the NTSB demanding a recall and a 19mm master be installed. After all if a 16mm would be dangerously mismatched a 14mm is certain death.
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Rodrob
Posted on Sunday, August 10, 2014 - 05:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I couldn't agree more.
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Jdugger
Posted on Monday, August 11, 2014 - 09:15 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The stock on the 1125r isn't a 14 -- that was during the ZTL-1 era.
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Ak_addict
Posted on Monday, August 11, 2014 - 09:42 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Not according to American Sport Bike.

http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/ccp0-p rodshow/18001.html

Do a Google search of BadWed and the consensus is it's a 14mm.

I believe the B14 is the bore.



The R6 master a lot of people are using on the Buell is a 16mm IIRC.

Anyways I'll know today how it works, mine is scheduled to be delivered later. If I don't post an update you'll know it was a bad idea.
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Jdugger
Posted on Monday, August 11, 2014 - 10:27 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Would also depend on the stroke. I can tell you FOR A FACT I use the RCS19 on the brake and have used both 19x18 and 19x20 MCs and they are "correct" in feel and application.

On the clutch, I tried an RCS16 and it simply did not move enough fluid. The 19 clutch MC from brembo works correctly.
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Satori
Posted on Monday, August 11, 2014 - 11:03 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

now I am curious Whats the bore siz/type on the EBR's?

The gizmag reviewer gave some serious props to the braking power.
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Fresnobuell
Posted on Monday, August 11, 2014 - 12:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)


quote:

I have one on my Race bike and like it better than the Accossato I have on my street bike.




Rob, did you have to modify anything for the Accossato installation?

(Message edited by fresnobuell on August 12, 2014)
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Ak_addict
Posted on Monday, August 11, 2014 - 02:48 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

"Would also depend on the stroke."
100% correct! All I can tell you guys is the 16mm Brembo unit made a huge improvement. Here's some before and after pics.
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/746187.html?1407782828
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Fresnobuell
Posted on Sunday, August 17, 2014 - 09:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Seems like the Accossato and Nissan radial M/Cs have a downward port for the brake line. The stock unit has a forward port (with the idle/throttle cables underneath.)

From those who have upgraded the brake M/C to one of the radial varieties, what has been your solution to get the banjo bolt fit without banging into the cables?
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Nobuell
Posted on Monday, August 18, 2014 - 12:02 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Fresno

I installed a new Brembo MC a couple weeks ago. I used the stock line and had to redrill the handle bar to allow rotation of the cable housing. I plan to order a new brake line but only to get a longer one to facilitate wheel removal

I will send you a picture tonight.
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Rodrob
Posted on Monday, August 18, 2014 - 01:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

My Accossato mounted with stock lines.


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Fresnobuell
Posted on Monday, August 18, 2014 - 04:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks Rob. That's helpful. I also ran into the thread from NutsMC where he documented the M/C switch.

I assume you rotated the switch gear forward as well?

What M/C are you running on the clutch side?
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Rodrob
Posted on Monday, August 18, 2014 - 10:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yup.
Stock. Really stiff with the EBR fix. But I don't use it much.

(Message edited by rodrob on August 18, 2014)
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Fresnobuell
Posted on Tuesday, August 19, 2014 - 01:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Rob, Can you help decipher this writeup from the EBR website?

I was considering the Accossato Clutch M/C to match my Accossato brake M/C but then I came across this warning from the EBR folks. I don't have the desire to change the Clutch actuator at this point in time. I'm wondering why the stock clutch actuator won't work correctly with the Accossato clutch M/C....

Per the EBR Site:

ACCOSSATO RADIAL CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER KIT
An excellent upgrade for 1125's. It is a forged aluminum radial clutch master cylinder with a 16mm bore, and an 18mm non folding lever. YOU MUST USE OUR EBR CLUTCH ACTUATOR KIT WITH THIS MASTER CYLINDER OR IMPROPER SHIFTING AND FINDING OF NEUTRAL WILL OCCUR.

http://www.erikbuellracing.com/store/parts-accesso ries/clutch/accossato-radial-front-master-cylinder .html

(Message edited by fresnobuell on August 19, 2014)
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Nuts4mc
Posted on Tuesday, August 19, 2014 - 01:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

fresno...I think they are talking about their fix (EBR's) for the clutch weep issue another $100
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Fresnobuell
Posted on Wednesday, August 20, 2014 - 12:10 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)


quote:

I think they are talking about their fix (EBR's) for the clutch weep issue another $100




Yes, I agree.

I guess my question is why does the Accosato Clutch M/C work with the EBR Actuator and not the stock actuator? Accossato not moving enough fluid?

Should I look at the Nissin 16x18 Clutch M/C as opposed to the Accossato?
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Fresnobuell
Posted on Thursday, September 04, 2014 - 03:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Rob,

I test fit the Accossato brake M/C and the lever hit the fairing stay. YOur setup looks like the stock clip on and triple tree.

Did you do anything special to gain enough clearance?

I could probably dremel a few MM out of the fairing stay, but I would prefer not to.
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Fresnobuell
Posted on Thursday, September 04, 2014 - 03:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I see you run your forks flush with the top of the triple tree. Perhaps this is the difference?

I was considering this. What's you feeling about the ride characteristics with this fork setup?
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Rodrob
Posted on Thursday, September 04, 2014 - 11:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

My guess is that the EBR actuator requires less fluid volume to fully disengage the clutch. I don't know the specs on the stock clutch MC, but it might provide more fluid volume at the expense of hydraulic advantage. I have the EBR kit with the stock MC and it is quite stiff.

My Accossato barely touches the fairing stay. Not enough to move the lever. I think I just had to rotate the MC to find the sweet spot.

I run the forks flush primarily to match my race bike where I need the extra trail to stabilize the front at speed. Frankly at street speeds, it really doesn't make much difference, IMHO. Maybe a little less twitchy and more stable, but I can pretty much control the front height by modulating the brakes on the street. Keep in mind that I have a ride height adjustable rear shock, so you can't draw accurate conclusions by looking at the fork position alone.
I took a street (canyon) ride with Shawn Higbee quite awhile ago. He was on an old beat up Kawi-600-not-R somthin' and I was on this bike. We were not racing, but it was a very lively pace. He was following and was on me like white on rice. We finally came to a stop, where he pulled up beside me and upon releasing the brakes, the bike just bounced up and down like a pogo stick. I just stared and he said, "Yeah the fork seals are gone. There's no oil in the forks and the rear shock is blown. Someday I'll fix it."
"How the hell do you go so fast on that thing with no damping."
"I just control it with the brakes."
I don't think I've screwed with my suspension since then. I've been concentrating on braking.
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Dannybuell
Posted on Friday, September 05, 2014 - 09:58 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Rodrob - excellent final analysis; "I've been concentrating on braking."
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