| Author | Message | ||
     Jeepinbueller |
I didn't realize the factory service manual didn't have guidelines on how much to let the fork protrude through the upper clamps (edit: for my 1125CR). I forgot to take notice on disassembly how many lines were exposed so I could match it up on installation... How many lines on the fork are supposed to be above the clamp at stock settings? I'm 6'3" tall and fairly lanky... would there be any benefit for a taller rider to lower/raise them in the clamps a line or two? I realize this doesn't help with ergonomics, but handling-wise... just throwing it out there while I have them out. I have them out because my right fork started to leak and threw fluid all over the wheel and edges of the front tire. Seal are getting replaced in both. Because the fluid was on the tire for a few hours, I wiped it up the best I could and washed the whole wheel/tire in Dawn. Could I perhaps run some 300 grit sandpaper along the edges (chicken "margin of error" strips) to rid of any slickness? It worries me, even if unjustly. Thanks for the help! (Message edited by jeepinbueller on August 19, 2014) (Message edited by jeepinbueller on August 19, 2014) | ||
| Sl33py |
at lunch ran down and snapped a pic. bone stock setup:  HTH! Can't comment on the settings you might want to try. Out of my league, but will follow along! Rob | ||
| Jeepinbueller |
Ah, thanks Rob! Will help immensely. Should it be the same on the CR? I didn't specify--my fault. | ||
| Stirz007 |
If you are using stock trees, you really can't screw up "stock" settings. The wire clip on the fork tube will act as a stop when you slide them back in. If you want to 'lower' the front end (more tube protruding above top of upper tree), just remove the wire clip. | ||
| Nuts4mc |
fork tubes flush with the top triple clamp = slows steering (changed the rake and trail) better on straightaways..a little more work to "turn in" NOTE! watch the length of the front brake cable and the clamp on the lower triple clamp...can be a stretch for the brake line. Fork tubes protruding above top triple clamp = quicker steering, but can become unstable on straightaways at high speeds.... this is just one of the many factors in setting up the bike...you may find that a certain front tire and front fork "height" can be "married" to give you the feel you want ...good luck | ||
| Froggy |
Dat precise focus....  | ||
| Harleyms |
my stock '09 CR is set up exactly the same as Sl33py's pic | ||
| Thefleshrocket |
I have the top of the fork tubes set flush with the top of the triple. It sounds counter-intuitive, but adding rake and trail seems to have actually reduced the effort required to initiate a turn, reduced the effort required to hold a lean angle once in a turn, and reduced the effort required to change lean angle mid-turn. Lowering the front end makes the bike feel like it takes more effort to turn, and it makes the bike feel twitchier when accelerating hard at higher speeds (70+mph). Again, this runs contrary to what conventional logic dictates, but it's been my personal experience and I'm sticking with having the tops of the fork tubes flush with the triple. | ||
| Sprintst |
The fork tubes have a retainer clip that limits their travel up into the lower triple clamp. You can't go higher unless you remove those clips I road the Dragon for a day with fork oil running all over my wheel, tire and rotor. Not too bright, but I was fine. Just take it a bit easy and wear off any residual (Message edited by sprintst on August 20, 2014) | ||
| Figorvonbuellingham |
My first 09 cr was not as the pic, it was flush. This second one i have is. Weird. The second one has a much lower seat height also. I was tippy toeing on my first and am happily flat footed on my second. Have no idea that small of an adjustment could make so much difference in seat height. | ||
| Skntpig |
Shock preload will change seat height | ||
| Jeepinbueller |
Thanks for all the help, fellas. Everything's going back on tonight so I can ride in to work in the morning! I'm just leaving it stock. | ||
| Jeepinbueller |
So everything went back together just fine! Took a nice five hour ride with some friends yesterday and the front felt very nice. After the ride, however, I noticed more fluid running down both forks, all over the rebound adjustment screw, and wheel... again. Is it normal for forks with newly installed seals to leak a bit before they seat, or something? I basically chalked it up as that. Cleaned the whole front end really well and I was just going to see if it leaks anymore before I call my mechanic up and ask how he messed up both forks, lol. He did say it was his first time doing a job on the 1125 forks: apparently they're much stiffer than those on his XB. Oh, and Froggy, I was searching for a bokeh joke but my mind lens-creeped and I gave up. (Message edited by jeepinbueller on August 25, 2014) | ||
| Sl33py |
Josh - that doesn't sound right to me. (for what little i know). Seals should seal as long as they are not dry/cracked, or otherwise being bypassed. Any scoring or scratches on the fork surface? bokeh in my pic is horrible, but not bad considering it's with my cell. I could pull out my FX DSLR and micro lens to get a full macro shot which would have awesome defocus... (semi pro photog and geek). GL! Rob | ||
| Stirz007 |
It's not uncommon to get a slight weep (barely enough to wet your fingertip) with new seals until they seat, but if it's running down the leg, that's no bueno. I rebuilt my Ninja 250 forks a while back with some seals that differed from the stock ones and they leaked - sure enough, I had installed them backwards (facepalm). Another possible is that there is a nick in the fork legs that is cutting the seals - usually, I'll use some fine grit wet/dry paper on the legs (perpendicular to leg, not lengthwise) before reassembly to take out any scratches that could affect seating. If fluid is running down the leg, my bet would be seals were installed backwards. | ||
| Bigblock |
It could be a nick in the tube cut the seal. Also, the service manual has the fluid level set too high, I don't have my notes on me, but I think Al at american sport bike first clued me in to this, and my front end was rebuilt twice and didn't last very long. I did it myself last time, and discovered the incorrect service manual oil level spec, and got it right this time. So far so good, no leaks. I also found a tiny nick on one fork leg that was sticking up and may have cut the old seal, luckily I noticed it just before assembly. I had polished them with ultra fine steel wool, and that didn't take the nick down, it was like a little piece of the chrome sticking up. I had to take it off with a sharp hard knife, being very careful to just remove the nick without damaging the fork at all. | ||
| Bigblock |
Let me rephrase. The service manual I have sets the oil level too high, I don't know if later ones correct this. I will check the numbers later today and get back to you. | ||
| Nuts4mc |
an old trick from my dirt bike days... get a plastic bag like from the check out at walmart/target...place if over the fork leg end (like a condom)...lube up the seal with some grease (pack it) and slide the seal over the bag and onto the fork leg ( make sure you are installing the seal in the correct direction)...the "condom" keeps the sharp top or bottom edge of the fork tube from cutting the sealing edge of the new seal...if your mechanic cut the seal when he installed on the fork leg...it's gonna leak...HTH | ||
| Jeepinbueller |
Bigblock: I called my mechanic and let him know about the leakage (it's only on the left fork--the right fork was the leaky one before and the cause for getting both redone). He confirmed he was going by the FSM and overfilling could lead to continued leakage. I don't have my version of the FSM on-hand, but I'll look it up when I get home for lunch: can anybody confirm the correct capacity of the forks? | ||
| Bigblock |
Oh, sorry, my bike and manual are sitting on my lift over in my friends barn, I will try and make it over there today to check the numbers. I wrote the correct numbers right into the manual, scratched out the wrong ones and promptly forgot what any of them were! | ||
| Sl33py |
Jeepinbueller - 2009 Service Manual: Chassis section (2-52):  Bigblock - is this the correct level or the one you think is not right in the manual? HTH - GL! | ||
| Sl33py |
Not sure if this will help, but definitely low cost to try fixing the seal. If related to any contaminates/dirt in the seal, little SealMate doohickey may help? basically $8 shipped it looks like. cleans the seals from debris/dirt and might be worth a shot? | ||
| Bigblock |
That is too high. 94mm is just too much oil in those tubes. The number should be higher, making the oil level lower. I think it was 118 mm, but i'm going on memory here for a job I've only done once, over two months ago. I was just too busy today to make it over to the "shop". Call Al at American sport bike, (760)727-2333 he gave me the numbers, but it was close to what race tech had on their website, which is 115mm. | ||
| Stirz007 |
FWIW, for the Showa upgrade, fluid fill is 100 mm below top of tube. I have done multiple rebuilds of my forks using that setting with no leak or handling problems. If you change from factory levels to something like 115 mm (over 20% difference), you will definitely notice a more spongy suspension response - I'd be cautious in making such a large change - your handling characteristics will change significantly. Caveat: take internet advice at your own risk, results may vary, no warranties expressed or implied. (Message edited by Stirz007 on August 28, 2014) | ||
| Matteson |
I called the dealer when I did mine. The 08 springs where bigger in comparison to the later ones so they revised the spec. I had revA in one and revB in the other tube. The short wind is I ordered a new spring and spacer and went with the dealers spec he had told me. Which I believe was different than my manual. | ||
| Bigblock |
well it is different for different types of front ends. Racetech said their numbers are for their valving, and to use the factory number for stock rebuild. I was going to use the 94mm my 08 1125r book said to use, but when I was ordering the seals from Al, he told me the numbers in the 08 book were wrong, and gave me numbers that he said were the correct numbers that he got from the Buell factory firsthand. The front end feels fine, in fact better than it ever felt, and it isn't leaking this time, so I am assuming the level as I set it is close enough. Is the 09 front end different, requiring a different level? I don't know. | ||
| Matteson |
Yes. RevA had stiffer springs. RevB has smaller ones and weren't as stiff. Hence the revised specs. | ||
| Bigblock |
117mm is the number I got from Al, and what I'm using. It's fine for my 08. I suspect 94mm is what was causing my premature seal failure, but I can't prove that, I don't know what spec the shop used when it failed those times, hence the reason I did it myself this time. I can't see one or two steps difference in spring rate making a 23mm difference in oil level. There's something else going on here. I don't know what it is. My bike works much better set at 117mm than it did before. YMMV! | ||
| Matteson |
I will post the pictures of the my old thread if I can find it. There is a huge difference in spring and spacer size. But anyhow good to hear you fixed it and are back on the road. | ||
| Al_lighton |
Service Bulletin B-090 below:  |
