| Author | Message | ||
     Clk92vette |
My new-old '08 has a clunk in the front end that seems to have been present since I bought her this past spring and is now getting worse. It is present under front braking conditions only and seems particularly prevalent as the front shocks transition from full compression to extension. But this morning on my way in to work I grabbed the front and it was more of a pulsating clunk than single or double clunk. My front brake does pulsate on hard braking and I am really not happy with the on/off force characteristic of the assembly, but this is a separate issue. The front brake modulation on my new-new '08(RIP) was much smoother and did not pulsate under hard braking. Any wisdom you may have on this will be appreciated. | ||
| Two_seasons |
Re: pulsating front braking. You need to buy the rotor hone from American Sport Bike and clean your front rotor. Re: the clunking of the forks. You probably could benefit from sending your tubes in to RaceTech and have them "gold valve" your forks and ensure that the correct springs are in there. Depending on your weight, this may be causing your issue. | ||
| Dennis_c |
Cant help you on the clunk. On the brakes pulsating is a build up of the stock pads on the rotor you can clean it off like steel wool fine sand paper ect. It is thoes dark spots all around the disk. Or get lyndal gold pads and ride with them and the pulsating will slowly go away with use and wont come back. Your brakes wont be as grabey but it does take more hand pressure to stop. I have been using EBC for the last 5k so far I like them better no pulsating they are a little grabbier than Lyndal Gold not as bad as stock and about $30 less to. you can get them both at American Sport Bike | ||
| Smoke |
loosen and then retorque the fork stem nut after loosening the upper fork tube clamp bolts and then tighten the fork tube clamp bolts. take her for a ride and check it out. tim | ||
| Clk92vette |
So I finally got around to checking this out. The clunk/click noise was definitely increasing in frequency. When I grabbed a hand full of front brake, the noise would repeat in rapid progression. I eliminated the brakes as the cause by putting the front wheel against the curb and compressing and releasing the shocks. I would have sworn the noise was coming from inside the shock(s). But I loosened the stem nut pinch bolt and noticed that it only took about 25 ft*lbs of torque to break the stem nut loose. I re-torqued the stem nut to 42 ft*lbs, tightened the pinch nut, and took her for a ride. This made a big difference but did not completely eliminate the noise. I may try again but I at least feel much more confident riding her. | ||
| Stimbrell |
I would recommend you check out the steering head bearings, I am on my third set at 12K miles, difficult to detect by the usual method of raising the front end and pulling and pushing on the bottom of the forks, mine passed a MOT test when they were totally shot, I only checked them because I could feel a slight hesitation in the steering. | ||
| Dustyterry |
Unfortunately, you are always going to have a clunk. The factory steering head bearings are ball bearings and the races are not tapered, thus they really are not meant to be tightened along the steering stem axis. You can easily over-torque the steering stem nut and damage the bearings. We looked for a long time for proper tapered roller bearings for the Ronin project, but they are an odd size and we would had to have custom bearings ground. Just tighten to spec and live with it. | ||
| Skntpig |
Yeah that's an odd bearing for that spot. | ||
| Dannybuell |
My CR did that for a while but it went away. The steering is fine, I have 24K miles on it. |
