| Author | Message | ||
     Sl33py |
18k on bike, original clutch plates, one new clutch actuator (HD rev C fix iirc - not weeping). Noticed it recently that was getting some slipping. Thought i may have had my hand on clutch and inadvertently gripped it causing slip. So tested the other night on long straight with hand clearly not on lever. It's spinning up (RPMs) without accelerating. Confirmed it's definitely slipping... bummer. Any adjustment options i'm missing? I looked at an old/archived thread: http://badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290431/ 690584.html?1346686795 (still drives me crazy you can't unarchive) Barnett kit 303-30-20125 - found some online and at American Sport Bike. $150-220 respectively. I've found some videos on replacing the actuator (dreaded clutch weep), but not actually the clutch plates. I'm looking through the manual as well, but have always found the videos a huge help. Anyone know of a video on this? Besides the kit, anything else i should get? I have a good torque wrench. I can grab the seal as well (just so i know it won't tear and i won't need it...). What am i missing to do the swap? I'm not worried about losing the oil, but may try the "lean" trick Jdugger suggests. I've got a bit of miles on my current oil, so either way is fine. Springs - use barnett or re-use the stock springs? Won't kill me but should i do the EBR actuator at the same time? It's an extra $100 i wouldn't mind avoiding, but main concern is some folks who claimed a lot of similar slipping (upper gears in powerband) after actuator swap. Thinking less changed parts may make it easier to diagnose if a problem? Then if 100% i can swap actuator another time? Also have a brembo MC i would like to swap one day w/ clipons. (again - thinking one change at a time) Thanks for the help and suggestions! Rob | ||
| Skntpig |
We used to do the lean trick on Hondas all the time. Never tried it with an 1125 | ||
| Oldog |
a. Do you have a FSM? b. is the actuator building pressure for some reason? ( blocked return port in MC ) c. plates ok d. springs ok e. has the spherical nut shifted on the take pin? | ||
| Sl33py |
thanks oldog. Yes have manuals. reviewed and printed the section on clutch pack replacement (6.5). Shifts fine, runs fine. Barely slipping and tough to make it slip to confirm. 2nd gear small power wheelie noticed it... 4-5 gear roll on confirmed it with a high(er) speed run. hits power band around 6-8k and then slips consistently. Slow down and ride more reasonably - no problems. springs - not touched, unsure how to confirm except pull and measure. don't know how to measure the "x"lbs @ 1.03in. can check the spherical nut - but how do i tell if it's in right spot or backed out? torque measurement? thx!! | ||
| 99buellx1 |
Info on spherical nut setting is in the manual, it's not a torque measurement. | ||
| Mackja |
I have recently experienced clutch slippage at Road Atlanta two weeks ago, had to end the day early unfortunately. I had the slave cylinder replaced couple of years ago, at the same time in installed the Accossato master cylinder. Ordered and installed the Barnett kit, went to Barber Motorsports Park this past weekend and it performed perfectly. Clutch pull is a little heavier but not a real issue. I imagine with the stock master cylinder it might be a bit of a bear. | ||
| Nuts4mc |
a)some of us run the barnett kit with stock springs...works good with stock M/C b) don't mix OEM parts (metal plates) with the barnett parts...if my puny memory is still working...they're a different thickness...the clutch pack will be a different "stack up" dimension. | ||
| Sl33py |
99buellx1 - thanks man i'll re-read and look for the spherical nut settings. That sounds like the first thing to check (most accessible). Mackja - good to know. Did you use the OEM/Stock springs w/ barnett kit, or the springs from barnett as well? Nuts - thx for the info (here and in linked archived thread). I was looking at the OEM friction plates to replace or the barnett kit, but definitely won't mix them. dumb questions time for those of you who have done a clutch pack replacement: drain clutch MC needed? Drain oil vs. lean, i'm going to try the lean, but if oil is looking bad i'll just drain/replace. (i have a case of 20-50) The process in the manual is pretty involved and looks like you have to pull the vacuum assist diaphram? Just wondering if i can avoid this (looking at the clutch release pin, i'm guessing not), and if there is a shortcut to just replacing the clutch pack? Any of the specialty locking tools needed? Again i'm guessing not, since i'm not replacing the basket, but would like to confirm. In Nuts "tips" section:
#4? - just to stop rotation while removing the springs from the pressure plate? More dumb questions to follow i'm sure, but that's it for now... Thanks everyone! rob | ||
| Oldog |
I would not put a rag in the engine put the bike in gear of make a locking tool, rags in motors = bad things | ||
| Sl33py |
Thanks Oldog. How about draining the clutch MC - need to do this to get to the clutch pack? Do you have to pull the vacuum assist diaphram? Can I avoid this, or is there a shortcut to just replacing the clutch pack? Thx! | ||
| Mackja |
I used the Barnett springs, clutch works great. The clutch comes apart real easy, don't even have to drain the oil if you have it on the side stand. Clutch diaphragm can stay in place. Once the spherical nut is off the cover comes right off. Just put the plates in the same way they came out. Start and finish with steel plates. After doing it once I could do it in the pits in about 30 minutes. | ||
| Sl33py |
thank you Mackja! exactly what i was hoping to hear. ill get parts ordered and dig into it. | ||
| Pwillikers |
I had (still have after thousands of miles) issues with the Barnett kit dragging which makes finding neutral impossible and driving in traffic... interesting. Others on the board have had the same issue. I also found the Barnett springs to be very heavy. I reinstalled the stock springs which alleviated the heaviness. I tried all manner of things to solve the dragging to no avail. I eventually gave up and decided to replace the Barnett kit with OEM plates. I started abusing the shit outta the clutch in anticipation of replacement. Low and behold, as the abuse piled up, the dragging lessened to the point that is now tolerable, not perfect but tolerable, so I've not replaced the Barnett plates with OEM. I suspect the stack height of the Barnett plates was excessive and the abuse has brought them into tolerance. |
