G oog le Buell 1125R Forum | Login/out | Topics | Search | Custodians | Register | Edit Profile


Buell Forum » 1125R Superbike Board » Archive through July 21, 2014 » Check list when firing up for the first time in 3 years? « Previous Next »

Author Message
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Andros
Posted on Tuesday, July 15, 2014 - 06:39 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hey guys.

I fired up the engine today after 3 years sitting in my heated basement. New oil, filters and fresh gas was added. I have changed the exhaust and ran without air filter and airbox for the test. I have changed oil lines and New battery as well. The system has been completely drained from gas and oil for 6 months.

The idle sounded a bit rough.

Is there anything i should check in the diagnostics to make sure im not hurting the engine if something is wrong with the plugs, oil lines, gas nozzles etc etc? Just want to be on the safe side.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Dannybuell
Posted on Tuesday, July 15, 2014 - 09:17 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

google: ventil sauber
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Brokengq
Posted on Tuesday, July 15, 2014 - 09:28 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Danny is right with the ventil sauber. Its good stuff. Bavarian Auto has it for 5 bucks I think.

I would check fuel pressure on the diag. See what that's running at. Should be in the ballpark of 400kpa

Try cleaning the plugs using the ECM method.

IAC might be sticking a little. That valve hasn't moved in a few years. I would think you could use the ventil on that as well; someone will chime in if I'm wrong. I've always used carb cleaner.

TPS reset never hurt anything either. Not sure why that would be off, but hey. Its an idea.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Badgerbueller1125
Posted on Tuesday, July 15, 2014 - 10:31 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Can you explain the process of cleaning the plugs using the ECM method?

TP
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Brokengq
Posted on Tuesday, July 15, 2014 - 10:38 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

SPARK PLUG CLEANING PROCEDURE

2008 XB and 1125R - has the ability to clear residual fuel from the combustion chamber if a flooded engine or fouled spark plugs are suspected. This is achieved by opening the throttle to wide open, setting the Run/Stop switch to Run then, turning the ignition switch ON. This will fire the spark plugs for approximately 4 seconds, burning any fuel left over in the combustion chamber. It may be necessary to repeat this procedure several times to allow a severely flooded engine to start. NOTE: Motorcycle should be in Neutral.



Quote credit: Fresnobuell

However when I was talking to Cody a couple of days ago he said it worked when he set the kill switch to "run" first, then rotate to wide open and flip the key. Try it both ways. I can't remember.

(Message edited by brokenGQ on July 15, 2014)
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Figorvonbuellingham
Posted on Wednesday, July 16, 2014 - 02:28 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

It's usually a good idea to pull the plug and dump some Kroil or WD40 in the cylinders to give them some lube and loosen them up before you fire it up. Too late now but for future reference. I would have pulled the air box and made sure it was clear. Mice are notoriuous for making nests there. There's a good chance that any rubber parts can be dry cracked so you might have to replace some of that stuff, fork seals, etc. Lube the throttle cable. I use Bike Aid. I get it at bicycle shops best stuff ever for lubing cables. Tires might be flat spotted unless it was on stands or moved around alot. if you have the owners manual just look at the maintenance checklist for the higher mileages, it usually goes over alot of things on the bike.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Andros
Posted on Wednesday, July 16, 2014 - 05:37 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thank you so much. How do i find the iac valve if i need to clean it? Also how about the injectors, anything i can do to clean those?
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Brokengq
Posted on Wednesday, July 16, 2014 - 07:44 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

IAC is at the end of that rubber hose that is sticking out of the air box. Start bike, spray cleaner down the hose. Make sure to cover well, it likes to spit it back out and the cleaner eats paint. A little seafoam in the tank will clean the injectors. You can get seafoam at any auto store.

(Message edited by brokenGQ on July 16, 2014)
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Badgerbueller1125
Posted on Wednesday, July 16, 2014 - 10:21 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

"Start bike, spray cleaner down the hose."

Just to clarify are we talking about windex, 409, CLR, Pinesol?

Just kidding...but really (for myself & others), what kind of cleaner?
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Brokengq
Posted on Wednesday, July 16, 2014 - 10:36 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I posted what I use above (3rd post down from the top). To reiterate, I personally use carb/throttle body cleaner. The aerosol version of Seafoam would also work. Do NOT use brake cleaner. A lot of brake cleaners contain chlorine, which will eat through the hose. If anyone plans on buying Ventil Sauber to clean their valves, it MAY work for this purpose, but I would verify with someone more knowledgeable about the product.

Hope this helps.

(Message edited by brokenGQ on July 16, 2014)
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Andros
Posted on Friday, July 18, 2014 - 06:18 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanx guys!

Much appreciated!
« Previous Next »

Add Your Message Here
Post:
Bold text Italics Underline Create a hyperlink Insert a clipart image

Username: Posting Information:
This is a public posting area. Enter your username and password if you have an account. Otherwise, enter your full name as your username and leave the password blank. Your e-mail address is optional.
Password:
E-mail:
Options: Post as "Anonymous" (Valid reason required. Abusers will be exposed. If unsure, ask.)
Enable HTML code in message
Automatically activate URLs in message
Action:

Topics | Last Day | Tree View | Search | User List | Help/Instructions | Rules | Program Credits Administration