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Buell Forum » 1125R Superbike Board » Archive through July 21, 2014 » Gasket replacement requirements...? « Previous Next »

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No_rice
Posted on Friday, June 27, 2014 - 11:05 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Has anyone gone in and replaced the gasket behind this section of outer case?



Not the clutch cover, but the big plate behind it and the water pump. The piece that's held on by all the bolts like the one holding the p-clamp... It's been seeping for a couple years on occasion, but it has gotten worse and we plan to take a couple thousand mile trip end of next month...
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Dhays1775
Posted on Saturday, June 28, 2014 - 12:32 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

For that gasket, you have to rotate the engine so you can pull the rear header. That's the only way to remove that cover. Other than that, it's pretty simple.
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13was13
Posted on Saturday, June 28, 2014 - 05:45 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You have to watch the waterpump gear. It works as a counterweight. To make sure it gets reinstalled correctly you need the crank locking tool.
I would follow the manual. There is also good Information and pictures if you search "waterpump" under this topic. It is a pretty big job.
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Andros
Posted on Saturday, June 28, 2014 - 02:53 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You dont have to rotate the engine to remove the rear header.

http://youtu.be/OUOat5nOQyA
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13was13
Posted on Saturday, June 28, 2014 - 03:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Can be done but it's MacGyver time. You have a very narrow slot and an edge above the upper nuts. You need a 10 mm spanner with the right angle and a magnet to get the nuts back on.
Also, if your're into it, you can fix the position of the waterpump gear with a pin and tape before talking the cover off to make sure the teeth get into the very same Slot when you put the cover back
Then you would get round the rotatimg. But it's tricky.
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Sparky
Posted on Saturday, June 28, 2014 - 10:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

FWIW, I had a slight weep of oil at the gasket for the bolts of the P clamp & the one above it. Surprisingly I was able to "fix" the leak by cleaning the area with brake cleaner and dripping Super Glue on the gasket area. So far - no further leaks! See the thread Changing Gasket for all details. Maybe this can work for U.
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Sprintst
Posted on Sunday, June 29, 2014 - 08:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yes, I did mine.

Really wasn't that hard. Just have to pull that rear header pipe.
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No_rice
Posted on Wednesday, July 02, 2014 - 03:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

well i ordered the seal, also the water pump seals since im in there, and all the o-rings to deal with the clutch weep again... may as well just do it once and be done.
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Figorvonbuellingham
Posted on Wednesday, July 02, 2014 - 03:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You didnt mention if you had tried re-torquing the bolts. Mine started slobbering there and i found those bolts to be loose. Vtwins are notorious for rattling out bolts.
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Sprintst
Posted on Wednesday, July 02, 2014 - 04:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Do you have/did you get the EBR clutch upgrade kit? Makes a ton of sense after comparing the parts with stock
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No_rice
Posted on Wednesday, July 02, 2014 - 04:36 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I've retorqued them a few times but never been able to make it go away.

I don't have the ebr set up, but I have the last revision. So I'm just ordering the o-rings for that currently.

(Message edited by no_rice on July 02, 2014)
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No_rice
Posted on Wednesday, July 02, 2014 - 05:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

the o-rings arent to bad priced for me, compared to $100 for the ebr one. and its not like that particular part is to big of a deal to replace later if need be.

if these start seeping in another 5 years or so i will probably change it. suppose i could always order one to set on the shelf one of these days.
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