| Author | Message | ||
     Brokengq |
Does anyone have a part number for the male pins that go into the Deutsch or sumitomo connectors? Specifically the ones for the ignition switch? I'm trying to add all new wires to mine and don't want to reuse the old pins. | ||
| Nuts4mc |
This may help...some of the P/Ns have Pix on this site: http://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/index.php/cPath/1 09_110 | ||
| Brokengq |
Thanks for the link...unfortunately I don't see the one I'm looking for. | ||
| Nuts4mc |
I haven't modded mine yet...(like you're trying to do) Deutsch connectors are available from a number of sources...Mouser, Newark, as well as some speed shops (Jegs, Summitt)...I googled Deutsch and got many hits ...here's one from Ebay...maybe he has a source for just the pins: http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/200873464289?lpid=82 | ||
| Stimbrell |
I tried in vain to find these or one of the connectors, in the end I added a "amp superseal" connector at the harness end of the wires from the ignition switch, keeping the original connector, but able to run new wires from the ignition switch to a replacement "amp" connector when the wires break again, which they will. I also have a DPST switch wired to an "amp" connector available which means it only takes me seconds to bypass the ignition switch when the wires fail so I don't get left at the side of the road again. Hope that makes sense. having been left stranded multiple times I can now ride worry free on this issue. | ||
| Brokengq |
I'm hoping these are something a bike mechanic will keep in stock and I can call around for them. If not I'm going to try to reuse these, either by unbending the crimps or by splicing new wires in just before the plug. To save the aggravation I may just alter the plug type. That may be a PITA with the location of the female end of the plug however... I like the idea of the DPST switch too. I may go that route while I'm here. Or I may go for broke. I have a rough sketch of a way to cut the switch hole out of the handlebars and TIG it to the fairing stay. Lot more work, but permenant fix for sure. Only downside would be that I lose my fork lock. +1 to harley for having the fork lock separate from the ignition switch. | ||
| Brokengq |
So spliced in wire extensions, but I did it the best way I could imagine. I cut all of the wires in different places, as to stagger the splices and cut down on my overall width of the harness. I went for broke on my connectors, paid almost a buck each for them. VERY thick heat shrink insulation, crimped and a drip of solder on each. Spliced in about 4" of wire to each. Ran the wires through one large piece of heat shrink tubing, then wrapped them all tightly in high grade electrical tape. When all was said and done, had a nice amount of wire to play with. I lined it up so I had full range of motion without contact on the fairing stay, and zip tied it up to the wire bundle. Of course that made the connector hang down under the fairing stay a good ways. I tucked it up between the headlights, and when I mounted the fairing it held the connector up between them. So far, it works beautifully. Turning the handlebars to the max in either direction and the ignition harness doesn't touch anything, and there is still slack when turned all the way. I'm happy. For now. Also the ignition switch connector is NOT Deutsch. It is Sumitomo. Made trying to find the pins very hard locally, which is what pushed me to this decision. (Message edited by brokenGQ on June 24, 2014) |
