| Author | Message | ||
     Brumbear |
Can I have my rotor (front) cut on the lathe to take out high spots and resurfaced? | ||
| Sprintst |
Any rotor is better done on a blanchard grinder However, I'm guessing you can just get a drill mounted hone and DIY to accomplish your goal | ||
| Sir_wadsalot |
You sure it has high spots? Usually it's just the pads.... | ||
| Oldog |
I second the blanchard grinder | ||
| Terrys1980 |
You sure it's not just deposits left from the pads? If so a rotor hone with a drill would do the trick. | ||
| Two_seasons |
try steel wool to clean up the rotor (Message edited by two_seasons on June 23, 2014) | ||
| Brumbear |
Pads are fine they are new , rotor surface is fine it's worn quite q bit but it's fine, I am gonna check the springs and shyt when I pull it but thanks for the input. And thanks for the blanchard info, I have a lathe at my disposal so I was gonna use that but I was given the name of a guy in NJ who still does it has a grinder so I will get it done from him if it can be done that is I was more looking for the maximum thiness I can cut it and still be ok. I don't ride like I used to but I aint parking lot Annie either so i want to be safe if possible. | ||
| Nuts4mc |
if you can afford it...add the EBR disk mounting hardware ($50)...very good upgrade for the money... http://www.erikbuellracing.com/store/parts-accesso ries/brakes/front-brake-rotor-mounting-kit.html | ||
| D_adams |
I think you'd be better served by checking the rim itself at the mount points and possibly shim the rotor to make it true. I've heard of a fairly large amount of runout on some rims, .050" or more and it's certainly enough to feel through the brake lever. If memory serves me correctly, that's pretty much the lateral and radial runout limit, even 1/2 that can be felt under hard braking. | ||
| Jdugger |
It's not unusual to need to have front wheels machined back to "true" in order to use the EBR brake hardware. The OEM Buell wheels are not high quality. | ||
| Buell3some |
I like many had the front brake rotor pulsation. I tried the EBR hardware, new EBC HH pads, and removed the stock rotor to give it a thorough cleaning on both sides. After re-assembly it was better but still had pulsation. I didnt want to pay EBR's ridiculously "inflated" $340 price tag so i ordered an EBC brake rotor part# MD735RS from my favorite local independent bike shop. It took some time to get because it was backordered but now the pulsation is GONE and the rotor cost me $185.00 + tax= $200 total! | ||
| Noobuel |
Sweet, thanks for the reference. I will likely be headed that route after I recover from the funds I had to split with for the water pump replacement. | ||
| Rodrob |
I'm having pulsing issues as well on my street 1125R with the EBR Rotor and Hardware. Runout on my wheel is in spec, the height of the rotor mounting points vary between -.008" and +.003" for a total of .011 runout. Does this seem excessive? | ||
| Nobuell |
That seems high to me. It probably is not a problem with the Buell original flexible mounting. Does the EBR kit lock the disc directly to the wheel with no movement? I was thinking about getting their hardware kit for my track bike. | ||
| Rodrob |
According to EBR, this is excessive. The EBR hardware pretty much eliminates the float. Looking for shims on McMaster. Thanks Jdugger. | ||
| Jdugger |
Rob, Don't underestimate the value of machining the tabs on the wheel. | ||
| Rodrob |
I'm sure that's the best fix. But I need to find a machinist, so I hope this will work for now. (Message edited by rodrob on June 26, 2014) | ||
| Blake |
Just be careful not to inhale any BeCu. | ||
| Jdugger |
Or Al02. | ||
| Rodrob |
Or BS4U | ||
| Jdugger |
Blake didn't inhale that, he ate a piece whole.  | ||
| Rodrob |
LOL |
