| Author | Message | ||
     Hardlyableto |
I hate to be the guy whose first post is a plea for help, but I have always thought it best to be silent and only be thought a fool... I put on new levers and now the clutch wont fully disengage (drags when lever pulled in). I have tried bleeding the clutch, changing the fluid, and have tried the original lever. No change. I pulled the puck and I can see the actuator move. History: I have had the bike since new and have only ridden 1600 miles (long story that I want to change, hence the post). Had clutch weep repaired under warranty. Parking lot tip-over on left side a couple of years ago but ridden several times since. Two weeks before this I took a short ride with no issues. Thanks, Jim | ||
| Brokengq |
Click here, or go one post down. We have been working with someone with a very similar problem. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/736042.html?1398198932 | ||
| Hardlyableto |
I have been watching that post eagerly and have tried everything in it to no avail. Figured that slip might not be the same as not disengaging, but I'm not certain so I asked. I also didn't want to hijack someone else's post. | ||
| Noobuel |
Have you compared the aftermarket lever profile to the OEM lever profile? I've seen posts over on BuellXB.com where people have purchased non-Buell 1125 specific levers and ended up with lever profiles that contacted the master cylinders when not compressed at all. | ||
| Puddlepirate |
Have you compared the aftermarket lever profile to the OEM lever profile? I've seen posts over on BuellXB.com where people have purchased non-Buell 1125 specific levers and ended up with lever profiles that contacted the master cylinders when not compressed at all. That seems to be a pretty common theme, so that is where my money is at. The difference could be so slight that the eye won't notice the difference. | ||
| Trojan |
hardlyableto - Which aftermarket levers do you have? if you have the make and part number that would help. | ||
| 1ofakind |
Hi Hardly, for a second I thought I was in the twilight zone lol. I had the same issue as you've seen. Have you wrapped the clutch to the handlebar overnight? That worked for me. I would consider shaving the inside of where the clutch cable rests slightly to adjust how it sits in the lever when not depressed. It looks like you've checked out all the other options already. Good luck! I think the disassembly of the OEM lever causes some havoc in the clutch line depending on the technique used. | ||
| Sprintst |
Hmm, I replaced the brake and clutch levers with aftermarket's on my 2008 and my 2009, no issues I wasn't especially careful during installation, so I do wonder if it's more the brand. | ||
| Hardlyableto |
Levers are the PSR Click-n-roll for the 1125. They are shaped different but the pivot and contact points appear to be the same. I have them set on the farthest setting to ensure that I get maximum "push" on the fluid. I put the original lever back on and re-bled with no improvement. I have experimented with different fluid levels. Anyone have any magic tricks for bleeding the line? Mityvac? Should I crack the banjos in case they're holding air somehow?1ofakind, I actually have the lever strapped down now since I figured it helped you and it shouldn't hurt anything! Thanks all. | ||
| 1ofakind |
good luck!!! | ||
| Ratbuell |
Anytime I bleed brakes (same theory) I always strap the lever to the grip overnight, with the reservoir lid popped loose so any air can bubble up and out. In the morning, release the lever slowly, tighten the lid, and test. | ||
| Puddlepirate |
I have been using the Mityvac for years and love it. The push method with a syringe, pushing fluid up from the bleed screw into the reservoir works well also. |
