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Buell Forum » 1125R Superbike Board » Archive through May 09, 2014 » Alright. What the HELL is wrong with my bike? » Archive through April 14, 2014 « Previous Next »

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Brokengq
Posted on Saturday, April 12, 2014 - 01:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ok so I'm not going to start with a whole rant. A lot of you know I just bought the bike a week ago. It just left me on the side of the road. I'm sure you can imagine.

So I've posted a few times about so symptoms I have been experiencing. And now I have a new one to add. For ease of reading, I'll post them all here.

First, dead battery-ish symptoms. If you try to start the bike cold, no issues. Doesn't want to start hot. Multiple starter turnovers, system voltage errors.
Bike seems to be charging well however.

Second, first oil change was last night. Small flakes (slightly larger than a pinhole) in the oil. I counted right around 10 of these flakes. Some were ferrous, some not. Decent amount of "dust" in the oil too. Also found a few flakes in the filter and one on the plug. I have pictures I can email if anyone wants to see them (hi-res pics, don't want to compress and lose quality).

Third, PO of the bike is either a good liar, or a complete moron. I'm not 100% certain he knew to pull the right side drain plug during an oil change. He told me there was nothing noteworthy as far as issues with the bike. I don't see how you could miss some of this stuff. Test rides of the bike went well however.

Fourth, U0001 comm error code, most likely connected to system voltage error.

Fifth, (new symptom). Rode to work today. Uneventful ride in. Got off work, bike started like it had a dead battery. System voltage showed again. Let her warm up, and went to leave work. Rolled up to the stop sign and it died. Not noises, just died. Like someone flipped the ignition switch. Hit starter and got a rattling sound, but it turned over and fired. Let the clutch out a bit and it died again. Started back up and revved it again. It stayed running and I rode to the gas station ~5 miles away. Checked oil per manual, looked good. Put gas in it and went to leave. Bike died trying to leave gas station. Tried to start again, slow start, fired. Rode to the traffic light, stayed running until I went to make the left at the light. Died while moving in the middle of the turn. Slow start, lots of turnovers before it fired. Rode ~3 miles to my complex. Bike died in my complex 4 TIMES. The first time it died I hit starter and got nothing. Absolutely no response. Key off, key back on, starter, fired. Died again. One more round of firing/dying and I pulled over. Cussed at it, let it sit til the cooling fans turned off. Key on, starter, fire. Rode .7mi to the back of my complex and parked it.

Also, I don't think I've been hearing the fuel pump lately after shutting it off, but I can't say with certainty.

I know its long. I'm sorry. But I'm hoping if I list all the symptoms someone can help me.
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Oldog
Posted on Saturday, April 12, 2014 - 03:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Not trying to be personal on this please bear with

>>> Bike seems to be charging well however. <<

what is the at rest battery voltage bike and systems off. please post measurements.

the alternator harness comes up into the air box area with 3 yellow wires to a 4 point square Duetz plug,
this may run to the HD bandaid from there to the Voltage regulator, disconnect the alternator plug ( the first one farthest from the voltage reg )

with the engine running and the alternator disconnected what is the voltage at 3000 rpm from 1-2, 1-3, 2-3

With the engine off what is the resistance from 1-2 1-3 2-3 and ground to 1, then 2, then 3.

have you determined if the IC plug is seated fully.

Note if the IC is functioning its likely that its communicating with the ecm, its probable that you had a low voltage event

most of your problems sound like battery voltage stator problems.

Metal in the oil, I recommend that you drop the pipe ( if stocker get the gaskets before you do that )
drain and catch your new oil pull your pipe check and clean the oil pickup screen report back what you find.

issues:
a few have had starter clutch issues, a hand full of cams may have gotten past QC at rotax, ( rare ) or balancer gears, these issues are rare and documented.

the 1125 is a well designed motor / tranny setup the majority of your problem sounds like a bad battery or a charging problem these are easy to find and fix in most cases.
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Brokengq
Posted on Saturday, April 12, 2014 - 03:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

At rest systems off: ~12.3v.

Voltage measured while starting: 7.7v

IGN on, engine off: 12.1v voltmeter 11.8 IC.

IGN ON engine ON under 150 degrees: 13.87v voltmeter on bat, 13.9-14.4v measured from IC.

IGN ON engine ON over 150 degrees: 12.8v voltmeter on battery 12.2v IC.

Haven't tested off plug yet.
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Two_seasons
Posted on Saturday, April 12, 2014 - 04:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

1.) Have your battery load tested at a reputable battery house.

2.) Check your ignition switch harness, where is goes around the fairing stay. Some have found trouble there and at the back side of the ignition switch itself. The switch can be taken apart.
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Brokengq
Posted on Saturday, April 12, 2014 - 05:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Stator tested. Don't fully trust this multimeter, the nice one is at work.

Measurements are as follows:

Resistance while off:
1-2:0 ohms
1-3:0 ohms
2-3:0 ohms

All pins to ground 0 ohms

While running, 3000 rpm:

1-2:39.8 VAC
1-3:38.9 VAC
2-3:39.8 VAC

(Message edited by brokengq on April 12, 2014)
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Tbowdre
Posted on Saturday, April 12, 2014 - 05:53 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

since its an '08 and having electrical issues, (slow start, dying at idle) I am guessing your charging system is not the issue and you just have a worn out battery.

At rest systems off 12.3 volts is too low
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Brokengq
Posted on Saturday, April 12, 2014 - 06:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Here's something I don't understand. How can a bad battery be causing the bike to die out?
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Nikoff90
Posted on Saturday, April 12, 2014 - 06:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Starting voltage dropping sub 9.6 says your battery is toast. A good battery will smooth power output like a capacitor, computer electronics do not like big swings in volts or amps. Coils firing spark-plugs will not charge fast enough if your Volts and amps are insufficient.
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Brokengq
Posted on Saturday, April 12, 2014 - 06:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Shouldn't I be showing SOME resistance between the phases of my stator though? If I remember correctly I thought it was around .5 ohms. Doesn't that point to the stator?
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Nikoff90
Posted on Saturday, April 12, 2014 - 06:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Sorry did not read the whole thread don't know the specs look at the service manual it should tell you that info. Throw the battery on a trickle charger to make sure it has a complete charge and than retest it that will tell you if its good. Could be you have multiple problems it does happen.
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Shawns
Posted on Saturday, April 12, 2014 - 07:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

My 09 manual says 0.1-0.3 anything higher the stator is damaged and must be replaced. I don't know if the 08 is different.
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Brokengq
Posted on Saturday, April 12, 2014 - 07:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

So zero is ok then?
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Shawns
Posted on Saturday, April 12, 2014 - 07:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If measuring from the stator lead to ground.....then yes. Across the stator sockets....then no.
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Brokengq
Posted on Saturday, April 12, 2014 - 08:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Pin to pin was 0 all the way across.
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Shawns
Posted on Saturday, April 12, 2014 - 08:20 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

That's no good. Pm me.
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Wymaen
Posted on Saturday, April 12, 2014 - 08:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

How old is the battery?

These bikes are similar to mid-80s Honda V4s re: their propensity for doing inexplicably odd things if the battery isn't fresh and fully charged. Your drop while cranking is quite large; if you didn't install the battery yourself and you don't have a receipt showing the actual age of the battery, that's where I would start- a new battery.

Unless you're trying to start it in gear without pulling in the clutch, I mean: )

(Message edited by wymaen on April 12, 2014)
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Brokengq
Posted on Saturday, April 12, 2014 - 08:36 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Sent
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Brokengq
Posted on Saturday, April 12, 2014 - 10:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Battery was supposedly replaced by PO March '13. O'Reilly brand Super Start battery. "Aftermarket". Harley says it wouldn't wok very well. But I can't imagine a scenario where I change the battery and stator magically finds phase resistance.
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Rogue_biker
Posted on Saturday, April 12, 2014 - 10:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Stator issues not normal on an '08. Does your instrument cluster have a gear indicator? If not, it's the original '08 cluster and is known to drain batteries. The fix was under warranty by replacing it with an '09 cluster.
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Brokengq
Posted on Sunday, April 13, 2014 - 08:45 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Its the original cluster. No gear indicator.
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Oldog
Posted on Sunday, April 13, 2014 - 10:18 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Stator tests are good stator is ok,
Charging tests look ok

Battery is bad replace it with an HD battery
problems should get better

On shutdown, red handle bar off first, then Key if you leave the kill sw on batt can get drained,

the stator windings are not very long so they will read near a dead short, just no short to ground, the voltages out phases 1-3 are per manual...

I would look for a key switch issue on the '08 this is a known problem.
have you checked the IC plug to see if its seated....?
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Bob_thompson
Posted on Sunday, April 13, 2014 - 10:19 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Brokengg (Chris), are you always shutting the bike down with the kill switch or the key? I have a 2008R #296 and my owners manual says to always do that, then turn off the ignition switch. Make this a habit. I understand the early 1125R's had a small battery drain with the original instrument cluster if you did not do this. No need for a new cluster, just shut down with the kill switch first and naturally always start with a fully charged battery (12.85v). I always keep mine on a trickle charger overnight. The original battery is now in its 6th year with no problems. One more thing that has plagued some folks: check the ground cable to the frame, it can get oxidized and initiate high resistance in the charging system, which is weak to start with. Hope this helps somewhat. Bob Wow, looks like Olddog and I are on the same page with this one but he typed faster.

(Message edited by Bob_thompson on April 13, 2014)
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Brokengq
Posted on Sunday, April 13, 2014 - 11:33 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have not checked the IC plug. Will do that asap. Going to look into an HD battery tomorrow. Hope that solves the problem. Do I need to remove the front fairing to get to that plug?

Also how does the stator check out? There is no resistance pin-to-pin....is that ok?
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Tbowdre
Posted on Sunday, April 13, 2014 - 01:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

What ohm scale are you working with? The resistance pin to pin is tiny and you might just miss it due to scale... Equal values are almost more important.

VAC out is normal..... So you are charging. Period

I would replace the battery and then reevaluate
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Brokengq
Posted on Sunday, April 13, 2014 - 09:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Removed battery per manual. Found something funny. It was installed backwards. Its the wrong battery.
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Shawns
Posted on Sunday, April 13, 2014 - 09:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Shouldn't start if it was hooked up backwards.
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Brokengq
Posted on Sunday, April 13, 2014 - 09:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

No I mean the battery has reversed terminals compared to the stock battery. So the leads were pulled around to make it work.
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Rogue_biker
Posted on Monday, April 14, 2014 - 12:10 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

That's the just plain stupid to fit a battery that way.
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Stirz007
Posted on Monday, April 14, 2014 - 03:09 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I guess I'm plain stupid - had a battery go junk on a race weekend and had to use a loaner with reverse terminals to make my last two races.
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Cataract2
Posted on Monday, April 14, 2014 - 09:01 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Get the right battery with the terminals in the correct place. Rerouting cables sucks.

You could go to Batteries Plus. They have the AGM for the 1125R as well.
http://www.batteriesplus.com/products/558-CC/3990- Motorcycle-Batteries/138122-Buell/1125R/1125CC-200 8-to-2010/1.aspx
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