| Author | Message | ||
     Brokengq |
So as a lot of you know I'm sure, I'm new to the 1125r world by about a week now. I want to to ahead and change my oil (no this is not an oil thread) and the current oil in it is royal purple (weight unknown, could be 10w-40). This is what I'm thinking about doing, someone stop me if its a bad idea. I got 6 quarts of Amsoil 20w-50 syn and 2 filters. I was going to change the oil once to the 20w-50 and the filter. Run about 10mins, then drain and refill with new 20w50 and filter. This way I *should* get most of the purple out. Anyone against? | ||
| Stirz007 |
I think if you drain the oil, remove filter and screen (5 bolt plate on the bottom of motor), and remove both oil drain plugs, you should get almost all the old oil out. Three quarts of Amsoil and Filter is about $60 - me, I'd just change the oil once and not worry too much unless you're racing. Opinions and results vary, no warranty expressed or implied, common side effects may include dizziness, euphoria and displaced feelings of self-worth. | ||
| Brokengq |
Both drain plugs? Again I'm new. I see the one on the left side of the engine, near the filter cover. I don't have the manuals yet. | ||
| Stirz007 |
One on the side, below oil filter. One on the bottom, next to oil screen (the safety wired 5-bolt plate shown in the photo)- it is above the plate in the photo with safety wire through it. When you pull the plate, use needle-nose plier to remove the screen for inspection. Photo courtesy of JD.  | ||
| Noobuel |
There are drain plugs on the left and right. The case plug on the bottom is for the crank locking tool, it is not required during normal oil change procedure. | ||
| Kruizen |
Check out ukbeg.com the uk Buell owners group, they have some great info in the download section. | ||
| Stirz007 |
"The case plug on the bottom is for the crank locking tool, it is not required during normal oil change procedure. " That is not correct. The plug for the crankshaft locking tool is forward of the screen plate and recessed. Removal of both plugs I identified in my earlier post is the correct procedure per the service and maintenance manual. | ||
| Noobuel |
To be clear, the picture is rather small and not clear. Also, this phrasing can lead to confusion: This could be construed to mean the same as "recessed". Just so everyone is clear, here are the two plugs that need removing for standard oil change. The metal screen is not part of a standard change described in the manual.   | ||
| Rogue_biker |
Well only my opinion but, 20W50 is a bit too heavy especially if you frequently start in cold weather. Although it probably won't kill your engine. 10W40 is really the best overall for a much wider range of temperatures. Also, just drain the oil and replace once. Why run it for 10 minutes and change again? There is no benefit from doing that. You normally do that to a brand spanking new engine but you use a REALLY thin oil, not a heavy oil like 20W50. Anyway, drain and replace once and be done with it for this one maintenance cycle. | ||
| Noobuel |
Here is the best clarifying image, it shows all the openings in the area.  | ||
| Froggy |
I agree with this. If you really want to do it, let me send you a shipping label, I wouldn't mind some oil that spent less time in an engine than it did in a funnel! Also related to flushing the engine, don't be like this guy who took it a little too literally http://mustangforums.com/forum/5-0l-general-discus sion/368307-im-done-with-this-car.html | ||
| Stirz007 |
I agree you don't have to drop the screen, but you'll drain an extra half cup (4 oz +/-) when you do. That way, you just dump in 3 quarts and you won't overfill. Froggy - Classic!!! (Message edited by Stirz007 on April 11, 2014) | ||
| Brokengq |
Froggy: lol mustang owners. Everyone else: I considering doing this just because the manual warns against rapid oil type/weight changes. It also says that the crankcase will hold 3/10ths of a quart that cannot be drained using the typical oil change method, and I didn't want to mix the two. If y'all say it doesn't matter I'll just change the oil and ride the sucker. | ||
| Jimustanguitar |
Reminds me of a guy who asked me for help picking out oil at the store once. I asked him what kind of car it was and he told me that it was white. | ||
| Wymaen |
^^I used to do sales at a large auto salvage yard. On days when wholesale parts were slow, I would answer retail calls. You'd be shocked, dismayed, and amused by the number of people who don't actually know what kind of car they are calling about, let alone whether they have a V6 or V8, what their spring codes are, or even whether or not they have a CD player. Positively identifying the color of their car was never even on the table  | ||
| Rogue_biker |
That Mustang post. LOL! Has to be a troll! Nobody's that stupid! Brokengq, I understand now why you want to this kind of flush. I would suggest just drain the oil by removing both oil drain plugs and the screen. That should drain most of the oil. I don't think you have to worry about a tiny bit of different grade of oil will hurt any. I still think you should use 10W40 though. LOL! But whatever you feel comfortable with. | ||
| Brokengq |
I'll post this here as well as in my charging post from earlier. Just got the oil out. Mostly goo on the magnetic plug. Lot of goo drained out. Small shiny flakes in the oil, but nothing bigger than a pinhole. One flake on the magnetic plug about the same size. Cut open the filter, ~10 flakes of that size, nothing else. Ran a magnet over the flakes found in the filter, 3 or 4 stuck to it. This all looks rather normal to me, but opinions are nice. I know there is no such thing as a wear-less engine. But god it would be nice. |
