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Mvaughn757
Posted on Saturday, April 05, 2014 - 02:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I recently developed a very nasty knocking noise coming from which sounds like the rear cylinder. almost like a rivet gun going on the inside of the engine. I have checked valve clearance which is still at the minimum, and my compression is a little high at 145 psi. supposed to be 120. my bike only has 8k miles on it and it is an 08 1125r. I'm pulling my hair out trying to figure out where its coming from. I have also drained my oil to look for shavings and rotated the engine to see all the valves move to make sure none are stuck. turning over the engine with the starter doesn't make the noise either, only when the bike is running. Anyone else have this issue or any ideas where to go from here would be greatly appreciated. thank you in advance. Also there were no indications anything was going up to this point, started one day ran great, two days later the noise came up.
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Two_seasons
Posted on Saturday, April 05, 2014 - 03:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Cam chain guides may need replacing.

Pull the screen out from your sump and make sure there isn't any metal in there. Test material, see if it's ferrous.
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Mvaughn757
Posted on Saturday, April 05, 2014 - 04:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

is there any way to tell if the cam chain guides are wearing out? all I could tell from it was while turning motor you could see the cam chain wobbling back and forth on the guides itself.
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Mhpalin
Posted on Saturday, April 05, 2014 - 06:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Have you checked your rotor nut or it could be the the water pump just two things that also could be the cause of your noise.
Mike
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Mvaughn757
Posted on Saturday, April 05, 2014 - 08:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

What should I look for on the rotor nut or water pump
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Mhpalin
Posted on Saturday, April 05, 2014 - 09:33 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Both nuts have been known to become loose it's not likely but worth a check.I would check the rotor first as it is easier to get at and if it isn't there is a revised torqe of 300 ft lbs and to use high heat loctite 272 I think Do the easy stuff first you might get lucky best of luck
Mike
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Mvaughn757
Posted on Sunday, April 06, 2014 - 04:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

well, so far I have pulled the sump screen and luckily no shavings or metal bits in it, I was looking into the rotor nut, but I guess ill be on hold until I can get a locking tool so I can break the torque on the nut. I did notice some dents in the stator housing, is that normal or is that a sign that the nut could be loose and what im hearing is the stator banging on it while it was running?
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99cyclone
Posted on Sunday, April 06, 2014 - 05:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Rotor nut. Mine sounded terrible with just over 4k miles. Checked the rotor nut and it was basically finger tight.

New nut, re torque with loctite and it is purring like a kitten
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Nillaice
Posted on Monday, April 07, 2014 - 01:36 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

check around in the HRH section to see if you can borrow the crank locking tool
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Mvaughn757
Posted on Tuesday, April 08, 2014 - 06:19 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

This might be a dumb question but whats the hrh section?
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Brokengq
Posted on Tuesday, April 08, 2014 - 09:48 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Just gonna leave this here.

http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/734073.html?1396989502
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Nillaice
Posted on Friday, April 11, 2014 - 02:30 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

sorry, i should have given you a link.

http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/37/ 266401.html?

you can check the TBO section too, but it's mostly the same people

http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/37/ 487619.html?1315591543

and don't be afraid to send a few PM's

i can't say enough good things about most of the other guys out there i've ridden with. they've put up with a lot of my stupid shit and some still sometimes talk to me.

(Message edited by nillaice on April 11, 2014)
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Nillaice
Posted on Friday, April 11, 2014 - 02:40 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

dont get me wrong, im happy to help you!!!

but i could be alot more helpful if i were able to be hand deliver the tools & manual i under an hour, dab on a little loctite 272, answer questions, and maybe even lend a helping hand if i had the time and you had the beers (beers is the plural form of beer)

i suggest that you try to borrow tools locally first. let me know how that works out for you tomorrow.
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Nillaice
Posted on Friday, April 11, 2014 - 02:42 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

and welcome to the forum!!!!
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Moorev2
Posted on Thursday, April 17, 2014 - 10:06 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Mvaughn757, I had a similar problem a while back, maybe my noise was worst, but it turned out to be the pistons kissing the piston. I say kissed because when I looked at the damage to the piston I could hardly feel it with my thumbnail. I couldnt feel or hear it when turning the engine by hand. Somehow my timing on the rear cylinder had slipped....I found no problems with chain or the gears. Its possible the slotted gear slipped but it didnt look like it....not that I really know what it would have looked like. Just an FYI
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Mvaughn757
Posted on Sunday, April 27, 2014 - 06:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

ok, just an update after the rotor nut change, I still have the knocking noise so I decided to rotate the motor and pull the front valve cover, come to find out the exhaust valves or .002 too tight, anyone have any tips or advice to make it a little easier before I start pulling anything apart?
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Two_seasons
Posted on Sunday, April 27, 2014 - 08:36 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Happy one year anniversary Mvaughn757

Things will get better, and soon you'll be out
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Brokengq
Posted on Sunday, April 27, 2014 - 10:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

From last weeks "adventure". Towels down the plugs holes, magnet handy, and a 1" micrometer. A set of digital or dial calipers is useless to you.
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Battyone
Posted on Wednesday, April 30, 2014 - 02:30 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The knocking rotor isn't necessarily down to the nut being loose! The splines don't match and the rotor "knocks" on the splines.
The fix is simple, undo the nut with an impact gun - after warming to loosen any loctite- Clean all threads, apply loctite to threads and the ends of the splines, do the nut up a couple of times, squeezing loctite into the splines. Re apply a dab of loctite and refit nut with the impact gun.

You do not need the crank locking tool and you definitely don't need the bullshit 300ft/lbs of torque.

They should have just made the freeking splines fit a bit better.

When only slightly loose the rotor can make an awful racket.
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Mvaughn757
Posted on Saturday, May 03, 2014 - 10:57 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

ok, so It seems I have a timing issue, the timing marks appear to line up, could be slightly off, but I have noticed that the rear cylinder intake opens, then as it closes front exhaust opens, then as it closes the rear intake opens with the front exhaust simultaneously. also according to the manual the front cylinder timing marks lined up, the lobes appear to be 180 out, they line up the way the book says the rear ones are supposed to look like, unless im looking at it wrong. my biggest concern though is the valve operation.
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Mvaughn757
Posted on Saturday, May 03, 2014 - 04:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ok. Got it fixed. MooreV mine also was the timing on the rear cylinder. Skipped 2 teeth. Thanks for the tip. Weird that it happened tho. Now the fun task of putting everything back together. Thanks to everyone for your help and inputs.
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