| Author | Message | ||
     Theothers2t |
Hey All; I have an '09 R that I use primarily for track days. The wife has sworn she will never ride on the back again (have a Multistrada for two-up), so I was thinking of removing the passenger pegs and mounts. Looking at the mounts, however, they appear like they might come in handy during a low-side, maybe protect the swingarm and other bits. Any suggestions or experience with this? Thanks. | ||
| Jdugger |
They can help in a crash, but they are also an impalement hazard. They may save your tail section some rash. They may cause a bike to flip when it gets to the curb destroying it. | ||
| Theothers2t |
Impalement vs. non-impalement? Tail section rash or destroyed bike? So far I am leaning towards removing them! Thanks Jd | ||
| Froggy |
I've seen them both protect the bike, and also cause more damage. Each crash us different. I had someone back into my CR and knock it over, the peg didn't retract when it hit the ground, and the leverage twisted my tail section a hair. I've also had my Lightning fall over with no damage, retracted footpeg keeping the tail off the ground. | ||
| Jdugger |
> I've seen them both protect the bike, and also cause more damage. > Each crash us different. This is the real lesson. The same debate is had over and over on frame sliders on the japanese machines. They might save bodywork in a pit tip over, but destroy the frame by snagging on curbing or digging into the dirt. Over time, I've come to the conclusion that low-profile sliders are a good idea: Clutch and stator covers to prevent grind-through and oil-downs, mushroom-style swing arm spools that slide but don't pivot the weight of the machine above the pavement, and so on. Stuff that sticks out has too much of an opportunity to do more harm than good. And, remember, the point of bodywork is to protect the bike. That IS the real crash slider. You shouldn't be, in my opinion, attempting to protect bodywork with parts of the machine. It's the other way around. | ||
| 1125rcya |
Personally, I would take them off for safety reasons. The last thing I won't is something that would catch my leg as I'm flying off my bike on the track nor would I want another pointy object worry about. You can replace your bike and parts. You can't replace your time, body parts or your life trying to save a dime. Im just speculating, thant in a crash with the passenger peg mounts, would cause the subframe to twist easier. I'm no expert at racing, but I have been down on the track, and it all happens really fast. Not every wreck is a low slide :0) (Message edited by 1125rcya on March 28, 2014) | ||
| Stirz007 |
Removed mine for reasons stated by JD and Frogster - plus 3 lbs useless weight. | ||
| Theothers2t |
Sounds unanimous to me! Thanks to all for the advice. See you on the track! (I'll wave when you pass me  | ||
| Brother_in_buells |
Maybe you can make some sort of protector from a piece of delrin and bolt that onto the frame instead of the passenger mounts. I've seen it once on a xb! | ||
| X1brett |
At the track I remove the right peg mount but have left the left peg mount in place because it holds the fuel tank breather tube. I've been looking for a charcoal can for an 1125r on ebay for a long time so that I can get rid of the hose. They don't come up often. I guess the Cali bikes leave them on there. Does anyone know of a good place to pick one up? That is, a charcoal can that is meant for the 1125 which will fit without much trouble? | ||
| Froggy |
It is a standard Harley part, so there are a bunch of them on Ebay, part number 27042-84A The hoses you will likely need to buy new, or run your own. If you want to buy them they are part numbers P0066.1AM and P0067.1AM | ||
| Stirz007 |
I you're not set on having a canister, you can just re-route the puke tube down along the right side of motor to where the radiator puker goes.... But don't keep the plastic (as opposed to rubber) part of the vent tube - use thin metal tubing for the terminal end. The plastic can melt closed if it's near the header, thus pressurizing fuel tank - I know this because I got a face full of gas when I opened the cap after I did the re-route. Hot gasoline under pressure: relieve pressure and instant phase change to vapor = impressive volcano of gas out the cap. After adding metal tube - works fine. (Copper tube adjacent to clutch line below radiator in photo)  | ||
| X1brett |
Thanks for the part numbers Froggy, I appreciate it. Stirz, thanks for the idea and pic. I'd be afraid of the tube dripping and wetting the rear tire while riding. If that's not an issue, I like it. (Message edited by x1brett on March 30, 2014) | ||
| Stirz007 |
I run a belly pan with that set-up so dripping on tire is not an issue. You do have to make sure you don't kink the hose at the top, so leave lots of slack if you go that way. There's enough room inside the air box to provide a bend and I've had no downside thus far. Some of the guys running race fairings run the vent tube forward to a puke can mounted in front of the fairing stay (That's where my radiator overflow goes - you can see a white plastic bottle), but I just haven't done that myself. (Message edited by Stirz007 on March 30, 2014) | ||
| X1brett |
Understood, thanks Stirz! |
