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Nobuell
Posted on Monday, January 06, 2014 - 09:08 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I am setting my 1125R for track use and I wondered what the racers are using for an ignition switch. I would like to eliminate using a key.
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S21125r
Posted on Tuesday, January 07, 2014 - 12:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have no experience with track use but my nephew bought a blast with a missing key. We clipped the pig tail off the switch and spliced the wires together. When ever he would stop he would just unplug the the connector and stick it in his pocket. I would imaging you could do something similar or just put a two position switch in place of the ignition tumbler.
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Jimustanguitar
Posted on Tuesday, January 07, 2014 - 02:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You'll have to check your track's rules. I haven't raced bikes, but on the cars I've worked on there are some very specific rules about having a battery cutoff switch, toggle ignition, and momentary starter with a neutral safety relay. Perhaps you'd need a lanyard safety switch too?

Better read the official rules before you commit to a solution.
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Jdugger
Posted on Tuesday, January 07, 2014 - 04:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ignition switch or a POWER switch?

If just a power switch, if you are using a stock wiring harness you need a DPDT or DPST, and if using the race wiring harness a SPST will do.

Use a continuity meter (beep! beeeeep!) to figure out what the key switch does if using the OEM harness. You will need to make two connections. I then just clipped my key switch off, and wired in a traditional automotive switch. That left in place the ability to disconnect the switch so pulling the fairing stay isn't a hassle.

Most racing orgs I'm familiar with just require a reasonably accessible kill switch on the handlebar. It must stop the motor, but it doesn't typically have to shut down the whole bike.

It's not uncommon on other models for guys to wire their bar killswitch as a general power switch, but it's so easy to have a separate power switch on the 1125r, that's always been my preferred approach and I leave the OEM motor kill, start button, etc., stuff alone and use it as is.
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Zac4mac
Posted on Tuesday, January 07, 2014 - 09:41 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The keyswitch has 4 wires. 2load and 2power(from different fuses).
For dedicated track use, 2 wires. SPST

Z

<edit> one wire is spliced directly, the other is switched.

(Message edited by zac4mac on January 07, 2014)
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Nobuell
Posted on Wednesday, January 08, 2014 - 09:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I envisioned keeping the OEM handlebar switch. I have the OEM wire harness but just wanted to eliminate the keyed switch so I do not need to keep track and not loose the key. I can check the wiring semantic and determine the wires to connect. Do you think a simple SPST toggle switch will work?
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Jdugger
Posted on Wednesday, January 08, 2014 - 09:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

zac knows something I don't. I use a DPST if using the stock wiring harness.
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Nobuell
Posted on Wednesday, January 08, 2014 - 09:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have a stock wiring harness. I did plan to keep the bar mounted kill switch and starter switch. Do you use a standard toggle switch?
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Nobuell
Posted on Wednesday, January 08, 2014 - 09:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Sorry for the double post. I did not see the first show up.
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Zac4mac
Posted on Sunday, January 12, 2014 - 06:51 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

So I pulled the wires to the switch, one-at-a-time and all 4 must be connected to start.
DPST for a toggle switch.

Z
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Nobuell
Posted on Sunday, January 12, 2014 - 12:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Zac4mac - I pulled the manual and checked the wiring schematic and cam to the same conclusion. I am in the process of ordering a DPST toggle. I have been trying to find a connector that matches the one on the key cable but have not had any luck. The manual identifies that connector as an AMP (tyco) but I have not had any luck finding a match. Any ideas where a connector can be found?
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Jdugger
Posted on Sunday, January 12, 2014 - 03:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

McMaster has everything...
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Reepicheep
Posted on Sunday, January 12, 2014 - 04:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I saw these...

http://www.goldmine-elec-products.com/prodinfo.asp ?number=G19285

Not a direct fit, but at 3 for $20, it sure seems useful for cobbling together something along these lines.
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Nobuell
Posted on Sunday, January 12, 2014 - 08:08 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Actually, McMaster Carr has one that looks similar. I have to buy a bunch of other stuff to order, so I think I will pick it up ad see if it works. If not, I will have to cut the pigtail off of the key switch for connection to the toggle. I do not want to modify the wire harness should I want to put the bike back to street trim.
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Jdugger
Posted on Sunday, January 12, 2014 - 09:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

> If not, I will have to cut the pigtail off
> of the key switch for connection to the toggle.

This is what I've always done, and I think it's best, because it allows you to pull the fairing bracket without having to remove the switch.
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Shawns
Posted on Sunday, January 12, 2014 - 09:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/HYSTER-KEYLESS-IGNITION-SW ITCH-3127309-HY3127309-/191027286465?pt=BI_Heavy_E quipment_Parts&hash=item2c7a1d11c1
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