| Author | Message | ||
     Matteson |
I pulled the wheel and rolled it with my thumbs and the bearings felt smooth. The sleeve that the axle slides on is slightly scored but otherwise all seems well. The left bearing did just fall out though when I pulled the axle. Any ideas. | ||
| Skntpig |
Sounds like your axle wasn't torqued correctly and was too tight. Might be time for a new wheel if the bearing falls out. Are you also saying the swingarm is scored too? Ouch | ||
| Matteson |
Swingarm is fine. The spacer is scored. The bearing on the pulley side just spins in the hub and I can pull it out and pop it in. I need to find a good rear wheel now. This blows  | ||
| Mhpalin |
Go with the 3 bearing 2010 wheel Mike | ||
| Nuts4mc |
Matteson - like you I have the same "pop" - try and find a Loctite product that will retain the bearing (Loctite's site sez a #680 is what should work...if the gap is large between the wheel and bearing #660 is recommended) the parts need to be clean and dry before you apply the loctite...it sets up better in a warm garage, than a cold one. I could only find (2) P/Ns that show available for shipment for a (3) bearing wheel... Black = G0309.7AAYT Red = G0309.7AAYCC you'll also need the (3) bearing axle and bearing set...the old (2) bearing axle won't work EBR has a (3) bearing) "Kit" P/N G1321.10AZ Hope this helps | ||
| Nillaice |
Might as well try the loctite or JB weld before you get that wheel welded and milled. Otherwise I'd say a replacement wheel is in order. ... Sorry to hear about your troubles | ||
| Nobuell |
I would use the loctite product before using JB Weld. The loctite is designed for that application. We use the 680 compound to lock gears onto the shafts of precision components. Without heat, the gear is almost impossible to remove. It has a 4 ksi shear strength that will be more than capable to hold the bearing in place. Just make sure that you use new spacers and correctly press the bearing in pushing the outer and inner race concurrently. The rotor side bearing (left side) must be installed first to the stop. I would install using the loctite letting it sit overnight before installing the drive side. The drive side bearing should be pressed in until the inner race just contacts the inner spacer. It is essential that the inner spacer is held square so that it contacts the bearing race evenly to assure no axial load gets applied to the bearing races. Torque the axle nut per the specification or a little less to be on the safe side. (Message edited by Nobuell on December 04, 2013) | ||
| Matteson |
So I went to Harley and we figured 500 by the time I painted, mounted and balanced an 010 wheel. Ouch. I don't know. This is all worrisome too me. That's a chunk of change. On the other hand a little adhesive is easy to apply. But I hope it holds. | ||
| Nobuell |
The shear force on the outer race of the bearing that is "glued" in is minimal as long as the bearing is operating correctly. Install as described and keep an eye on it. The worst that can happen is the same as you have now. If done correctly, I believe it will work. By the way, I installed a black 2010 wheel on my 08 R. You have to look closely in the sun to see that it is not blue. I planed to paint it but I am not concerned about it now. | ||
| Nillaice |
There are wheels available from sources other than hd. Any xb wheel is interchangeable with your 1125. And just one can of phantom metallic or diamond blue should be enough to color the wheel to match. If you can't find an 1125 wheel to fit your budget, I'd get an 03 xb wheel cuz those are bare metal and should be easier to prep and paint than one that is powder coated. FYI the pulley bolts are supposed to be a one-time-use-item because they stretch at the torque spec. I and others have gotten away with reusing them. But Some grade 8 bolts will be easier to find and torque and should be cheaper than the torx bit bolts from hd | ||
| Cataract2 |
You can find the grade 8 bolts that fit the wheel for the pulley and brake rotor at Ace. | ||
| Matteson |
Ya, I have a grainger and a shamrock. I really like shamrock because they have everything nut and bolt you can imagine in stock one or a 1,000. Doesn't matter it's by the pound. | ||
| Sir_wadsalot |
My rear wheel is black too, all rear wheels should be black. You would have to do some pretty serious cleaning to find the blue. But that's ok, because blue doesn't match my purse. Or my shoes. Everything should be soot black! | ||
| Nillaice |
Matteson I have been informed that the bolts are a one time use item per the service manual not because if bolt stretch but because the new ones come with loctite. My mistake. Feel free to dab on some permeated and thread those puppy's back in. Be cautious as to not strip or booger up the torx head. Especially If you are going to re use them. I tapped in the bit with a hammer to make sure i had full engagement. To make sure I was square with the bolt when torquing, I used an extension and , as always, applied proper countertorque (Message edited by Nillaice on December 10, 2013) | ||
| Matteson |
Got them off last night with no problems minus a busted torx bit. The bits were the hollow ones with a tip so I think they weren't as strong as a solid one. I don't know the name of the bit, whatever. Thanks guys | ||
| Stirz007 |
There has been some success with others in having a wallered out two-bearing wheel machined for a steel bearing insert. Less than a new wheel for sure. I think JD has some direct experience with this exact issue. | ||
| Matteson |
I already bought a wheel and it's in the mail. IF this one is screwed too then maybe I will try that | ||
| Jdugger |
> I think JD has some direct experience with this exact issue. You will make a regular habit of it on the Mg wheels. Loctite 620 and a good machinist are essentials. |
