| Author | Message | ||
     Mcelhaney14 |
A little over a month ago and about 2000 miles ago I installed a new belt on the R and now I'm greeted with this.  I was worried the belt was too tight and am thinking my fears are coming true. In my head, all roads are leading to a case split. Its a shame since I wanted to see how far I could go before pulling the top end. She still runs great but I guess the end has come. I'm just hoping this doesn't turn into an engine rebuild. Anyone have any other ideas? I know I can change the seal but the bearing is probably gone by now. I will measure the play before I fully disassemble it but I'm not holding high hopes. | ||
| Deanh8 |
my new belt is super tight and I fear this also. | ||
| Brumbear |
Nah they go pretty regular and they are a pretty easy fix. I think it's more a road grime issue i know guys who have done it twice already.It's the output shaft seal behind the pulley. I did mine in my driveway in about an hour and a half. (Message edited by brumbear on November 19, 2013) | ||
| Mcelhaney14 |
Brum, the one other thing that I forgot to mention is that on deceleration I am getting a small howl as I'm slowing through 20 mph. The howl is not affected by engine RPM or clutch position. | ||
| Kruizen |
I remember getting a howl when I put a new belt on. It goes away in about a few hundred miles. | ||
| Rogue_biker |
What is going on here? New belts are "too tight"? More info would be appreciated. I have a new belt that I have not installed but have been wanting to just as a precaution. My OEM belt is still ok but looks a little frayed at the edges at over 30k miles. But still working fine. | ||
| B2tomtom |
@Rogue Here is the thread where he changed his belt last month. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/723837.html?1381814472 It seems that with a new belt they are extremely tight and have been known to wear out some bearings. @Kruizen he has 2000 miles on the new belt and is still getting the howl. | ||
| Two_seasons |
Sounds like the properties of that belt are not correct. Just a guess. | ||
| Duanelr |
My bike, 3000 miles, on deceleration, has a small howl I've never heard on any other bike. I have attributed it to the belt too. It does not sound indicative of any problem, though. | ||
| Deanh8 |
I also have a howl, not a belt issue, but because there is a tensioner. The EBR bikes at the track make the same noise with a chain. I spun the bearings in my wheel after a new belt, literally had the bearing fall into my hand when I took the rear axle out. Wheel would have to be machined out and have an insert to hold the bearing to use again.. ALways wondered what damage it is doing internally if it crewed my wheel up. | ||
| Shawns |
WIth the Keda exhaust I can't even hear my motor. | ||
| Mcelhaney14 |
I don't recall my bike having the howl prior to the belt change. I still have my old belt so maybe i will swap it back on and see if it goes away. | ||
| Kevmean |
My Cr howled for a while after fitting a new belt  | ||
| S21125r |
At certain speeds/loads my bike howls during decel with the original belt. I chalked it up to the texture on the back of the belt riding on the idler pulley and hitting just the right frequency/tension to amplify the noise. Just a swag though as it hasn't bother me enough to investigate further :-) | ||
| Sir_wadsalot |
Anybody think pre-stretching a belt betwixt two trees with ratchet straps is a good idea? Cuz' amma totally do that. | ||
| Sparky |
I'd think that oblonging out the tensioner mounting holes slightly when fitting a new belt would reduce the tightness of a new belt fitted to a bike with more than a few miles would be one way to "break in" a new belt. The only problem with this idea is how to restore the correct tension with buggered tensioner mounting holes after the belt has ran about a 1000 miles or so. Perhaps a shim with the same thickness as the amount of material removed from the "oblonging" process could be installed on the mounting bolts to restore proper tension? | ||
| B2tomtom |
I was talking with Bill and he was thinking about making a different pulley that could be used to break in a new belt. I know its a lot of work but could be a smart idea if it did in fact take out the bearing. We are going to find out soon if its just the seal. Oblonging the holes could be a good idea also, just have a spare tensioner and mod the brackets on that one. | ||
| Mcelhaney14 |
I took the bike apart and I am happy to say that I measure less than 0.001" of radial play on the final drive bearing. Looks like I should be able to R&R the seal and move on. Thanks for everyones input. | ||
| Matteson |
Glad to hear its not real bad! | ||
| Mcelhaney14 |
Since it's been about 4 months I figured I would update this thread. I tore the the bike down to fix the final drive seal, a water pump squeal, and do a valve adjustment. I'm finally turning the corner and getting the bike back together. This whole tear down started after I saw this on the ODO   Here are some pics of tear down   | ||
| Mcelhaney14 |
My OCD then took over and I figured I might as well give the bike a good cleaning while its apart. Hence it turned into this.  After cleaning and a seal change. I was surprised to find the original seal would actually spin in the case. I guess it was just that wore out.  My improvised tooling to install the rotary seal for the water pump. This seal presses onto the pump shaft and presses into the case. The manual shows a special shouldered driver to install it. I put the smaller 1/2 socket into the larger one to drive the seal onto the shaft and when it contacted the case both sockets worked together to press it in.  I took an educated guess as to how far to drive the seal onto the shaft. I went until I couldn't push the push the impeller to where it would touch the case. | ||
| Mcelhaney14 |
I used a drill bit to time the water pump shaft and got the engine most of the way buttoned up tonight.  Of interest to note, I ordered all the parts to do this job before I took the bike apart. My bike is a 2008 but when I started to put it all together I found that all my water pump parts were from a 2009. This meant I had to get a new thrust washer and oil seal as they were different designs. I don't think the clutch side cover was ever changed but maybe because my bike was a late 08 they used 09 parts. Here she is all clean and ready to go back into the frame. Now I just have to clean the frame, wiring harness, and coolant parts before I will marry them all together.  My water pump failure turned out to be the thrust washer was starved of oil. I know I should have upgraded to the 2010 design but I couldn't justify the cost in parts. |
