| Author | Message | ||
     Easyrider |
Buell 1125 Stators in stock again http://www.twinmotorcycles.nl/webshop/artikel.asp? guid=YXHFSC&aid=5768&cid=0&s=newbuellstator&a=&ana me=New_Buell_1125R_and_1125CR_2009-2010_stator We like to make clear that only a complete fix cure the burned stator: http://www.twinmotorcycles.nl/webshop/artikel.asp? guid=YXHFSC&aid=5320&cid=0&s=fix&a=&aname=TM_Buell _1125RCR_09-10_burned_stator_fixing_kit | ||
| Yugi |
They are supplying wrong loctite 648 with a rotor instead of 272. Bummer! | ||
| Easyrider |
Yugi, Here is the story hope Yugi learns from it. This article will be written to help customers out to analyze and repair there Buell 1125R/CR stator and Rotor. IT IS NOT FINISHED YET. The point for the worries about the nut coming loose, which actually is a problem cuased by the splines having too much play, cause the rotor can move under extreme acceleration and deceleration. EBR has experienced this under racing conditions when it came loose and advices customers to tighten the nut to 400 NM of Torque. In our own Buell 1125R racer who did raced in the super stock 1000 cup ( our little local AMA class ) we have not experienced this ourself. But we take EBR's experience very serious, so we advise customers to tight the nut to the 400 NM of Torque. In our opinion a better solution would be to fill the splines with a filler type Loctite to fill the play on the splines, ensuring the rotor would not move anymore, but this will have an effect on servicing the bike as pullers and heat guns would be needed to pull off the rotor when needed. As these pullers are very rare under our customers, and if used wrong or the magnets can break, we don't advice to do this. Instead we advice to use Loctite 648 for the rotor nut. ( see also picture work shop manual Buell 1125 09 ) as Buell originally advised to use this loctide for the nut and to tighten it with the proper tools In all our maintenance we used the loctide 648 for a good hold retention against coming loose. We support race bikes and streetbikes and untill today the nut has not come off. The picture below you can find in your 2009 workshop manual  (Message edited by easyrider on September 26, 2013) | ||
| Andros |
You guys know your shit. I love it! | ||
| Kevmean |
Also anybody that is tempted to Loctite the splines remember if you have the oiling rotor fitted you will render it useless if you block the oil hole  | ||
| Yugi |
Easyrider, You should check 2010 manual, as it specifies loctite 272 and torque spec is different there, and tightening procedure is different also. | ||
| Zac4mac |
I've only rebuilt 3 but I used 648 on the sprag bolts and 272 on the rotor bolts at 300 ft-lb. | ||
| Tbowdre |
im just a backyard hack but i did mine as yugi suggests. 272 red on the nut and splines, tighten to pretty damn tight then loosen a turn then 400NM, done. | ||
| Zac4mac |
I jotted the short version inside the lid of my cigarette tin - Red 272 Tight to 210# Back off 720 deg(2 turns) Tight to 300# Z | ||
| Easyrider |
My buddy Martin slapped me yesterday for posting this. He says the 272 locktide is correct. We can start a long discussion about this but let's not do that (-: I don't wrench here for a while so forgive me please. We will update all info for the locktide. |
