| Author | Message | ||
     Jimustanguitar |
Hey guys! I've got about 100 miles on my 1125r now, and wanted to ask a few more questions about things I've observed while riding. Several times, I've killed it by cracking the throttle from idle. I'm not killing it with the clutch, because this happens before I let it out and even happens occasionally in neutral. The engine just falls on its face and dies when you rev it. Has anyone else experienced this off idle throttle kill? Also curious if the muffled buzzing sound I get while braking is normal. It sounds kind of like casting a fishing pole. I believe I'm hearing the cooling slots in the rotor pass into the caliper. How much of a clunk do you guys get when engaging 1st gear at a stop light? It doesn't seem too bad, but it's more of a clunk than I expected out of a sportbike. I do have a new clutch cylinder and may have some bubbles to bleed again, but it doesn't pull or do anything to make me suspect that the clutch isn't disengaging fully. It's not super easy to push it while in gear with the clutch pulled though. There's some sticktion to fight for the first inch or two. Also, do you guys get dripping fuel out of the tube in the rear foot-peg at the end of a hot ride? I've been parking it outside until the dripping stops before putting it into the garage. So far so good, no glaring issues or new problems to report. Lots of fun, just way too hot for the weather we've been having  Thanks again, I very much appreciate the great advice! | ||
| Jdugger |
> Several times, I've killed it by cracking the throttle from idle. Don't blip.. roll. This is normal with big displacement twins, honestly. > if the muffled buzzing sound I get while braking is normal. > It sounds kind of like casting a fishing pole. Your drive bushings are worn. Replace the hardware and rotor. > How much of a clunk do you guys get when engaging 1st gear at a stop light? It's a decent klunk. Is the transmission otherwise very smooth when shifting? Does it just "snick" between gears? > do you guys get dripping fuel out of the tube in the rear foot-peg at the end of a hot ride? An unfortunate 'normal' of this bike. | ||
| Johndb |
I've had the "blip" dying once or twice. Now I roll it... | ||
| Hybridmomentspass |
had the blip while riding one night, went to downshift, blipped too hard (i guess) and bike died. bigger mistake was trying to jump the bike off at 15 mph. let it slow down to about 15ish and put it in 2nd and dumped the clutch. she didnt like that as much as other bikes ive had/have | ||
| Captjoe |
Muffled buzzing sound? Hmmm, I get a bit of a clicking sound and feel when braking hard with the front brake, especially in a turn when the front wheel is slightly off center, but I'm not sure if that's what you are describing. | ||
| Jdugger |
Capt, your drive bushings are worn and need replacement. | ||
| Figorvonbuellingham |
So do you have a Fender Mustang? | ||
| Jimustanguitar |
Forgive my ignorance... What are drive bushings? Are they spacers for the rotor bolts or are they the slider pins for the caliper? Close. I've got a '67 Mustang project car and several guitars. Not a Fender Mustang or Jazzmaster though, no | ||
| Jdugger |
The drive bushings are the almost square pieces of metal that mount the rotor. They shift and twist with the OEM hardware design and if you look at them radially you will find they are all twisted up in the rotor and the rotor itself is worn unevenly along the load bearing edge. | ||
| Robertb1958 |
Interesting, I am a couple of weeks/hundred miles in to my 2008R, have very similar observations, except that my bike has not peed gas on me! My biggest gripe is that once or twice while slowing down/multiple downshifting rapidly from "high" speeds to low, the motor has shut down a few times. I plan to clean the idle control valve as recommended in the earlier post,and get an EBR race ECM. | ||
| Captjoe |
Thanks Jim. So the drive bushings are what give the front rotor that "floating" name? I spoke to my mechanic about this and he mumbled something about the clicking might be normal because the rotor "floats"? | ||
| Jdugger |
The OEM hardware mounts the rotor away from the wheel on springs. The drive bushings are what transfer the braking force between the rotor and the mounting bolts. The drive bushings wear or sometimes get slightly off center from the rotor. This causes shear wear, the drive bushings twist slightly, and there you go -- clicking when under the right amount of braking force for them to be loose. It's not normal, and they need to be replaced. Unfortunately, the fact they are clicking means they have probably gone on too long and compromised the bearing edges of the rotor, too. So, both need to be replaced. The new hardware mounting kit is a lot better, and less prone to this kind of wear because it holds the rotor in a tighter range. It also means your wheel needs to be more true, and in some cases, more true then they come from the factory. | ||
| Captjoe |
Well Jdugger you were correct. Just came back from the HD dealership and the whole front brake setup is going to be replaced. The rotor is warped and various bushings and springs are also down for the count. It'll cost me the extended warranty deductible to fix it all  Thanks for the info! | ||
| Jdugger |
Don't let the dealer use the OEM parts for this!!!! Use the EBR mounting hardware. A stock rotor will be OK if you are riding street, but DO NOT use the OEM hardware. You are just buying the problem again. |
