| Author | Message | ||
     Pmjolly |
Is it possible to find TDC of the compression stroke of the front cylinder by watching the intake valves through the intake? It seems logical to me that it would be possible to turn the engine over with a socket wrench while feeling for compression. Is the sequence of operation such that you can possibly tell by closed front valves and open back valves? I would also be watching the timing marks on the gears that turn the water pump, and I would insert the crank locking tool. I've done this on another 1125. The bike is running fine. I want to know if we just got lucky or not. The service manual has you rotate the engine, then remove the valve cover and spark plug. You watch the piston through the spark plug hole as all the valves are closed on the cylinder. It concerns me that there are separate notches for the crank locking tool for front and rear cylinder. | ||
| Northernyankee |
I guess you could do it that way...just would make it kind of hard to know the exact spot of TDC of the compression stroke for the locking tool. I guess you could wiggle the crank when you are close but I too would be worried that you are locking at the recess for the rear cylinder. What are you working on that you are locking the crank? | ||
| Jdugger |
Water pump. And, yea, we rocked it back and forth a bit to confirm the locking tool went up in the hole correctly. | ||
| Northernyankee |
Thats what I figured at first but I don't see anything in the FSM that says the crank needs to be locked...they do mention rotating the engine but I am guessing that its to be able to access the pump more easily. IMO if you are rotating the engine its only 5 more minutes to pop off the valve cover to get a look at the cam postions to know if you are at TDC Compression stroke. | ||
| Jdugger |
The water pump on a stock bike is a *job*. So much so, if I ever do it again I will go ahead and do valves and plugs while I'm in there! | ||
| Pmjolly |
Yeah, we did Jdugger's pump a few weeks ago, and now mine is weeping. At the time, it seemed logical to find TDC by watching the valves through the intake. We put the locking tool in place to confirm we were in the right spot. Today, I read the service manual and found there are separate notches for the crank locking tool for front and rear cylinder TDC. | ||
| Northernyankee |
I guess I am missing something, why does the crank have to be locked. I haven't had to replace a water pump yet and am curious in case I have to do one in the future. | ||
| Pmjolly |
It's a timing issue. The motor has to be at TDC of the compression stroke of the front cylinder to properly align the gear that drives the water pump. The pump is counterbalanced. If it is not lined up correctly, it will probably cause problems. The locking tool just holds the motor in place so nothing moves. There is a hole on the pump to insert a small pin or bolt, whatever is around, to keep the pump from moving as you put it in place. There is a mark on the pump to get it right. There are two marks on the gears on the motor that line up when the motor is at TDC, but I believe they also line up at TDC of the exhaust stroke. I will probably just rotate my engine out like the manual says, and take care of the valve adjustment while I am in there. TDC will be simple to find with the sparkplug out. | ||
| Northernyankee |
Hmm good to know...the FSM makes no mention of any of that. Yeah if you are doing the valve job at the same time then finding TDC is simple you just look at the cams on the front cylinder...if they are both pointing toward the rear then you are good to go. | ||
| Pmjolly |
In the 2009 service manual, page 3-61 describes removal and installation of the clutch side clutch cover. The water pump is mounted to this cover. We replaced the entire cover as a new assembly with the water pump already installed on it. You must remove the entire clutch side cover to get at the bad seal, no matter if you are replacing the whole assembly, or just the seal. Page 3-61 is where the timing is explained. It says to place the engine at TDC when removing the pump. Page 5-13 describes water pump removal. Step 12 says to remove the clutch side clutch cover. | ||
| Northernyankee |
Ahhh that is it...I didn't look at the section describing the clutch side cover removal. Thanks for the heads up! |
