| Author | Message | ||
     Foxy_1 |
Hi all, A few weeks ago I posted a thread about my 1125r not running to well,from the responses it seemed like fuel and after a fresh re fill it seemed to improve, however the revs are still jumping about a lot on tickover and it sounds like its only running on one cylinder when first started ,i have taken it on a short journey to see if it clears but everytime you pull up to a junction and pull the clutch in it just dies where the revs wont hold steady enough.Just after a bit of input in case anyone has had a similar fault. | ||
| Two_seasons |
TPS reset. Make sure you follow it to the letter. | ||
| Pmjolly |
Idle air control could also cause a rough idle with no codes. Mine would idle slower and slower until it died. A little fuel injector cleaner down the IAC fixed it. | ||
| Pmjolly |
Be very careful if you try to clean out the IAC. It might spit cleaner back out at you. | ||
| Foxy_1 |
Thanks for the advice...i will try both and let you know how i get on | ||
| Foxy_1 |
pmjolly- Am I right in thinking the IAC is located between the throttle bodies and if so is it easily removed? Thanks | ||
| Tbowdre |
yes between the throttle bodies. The vacuum tube for it goes up into the air box, so If you remove the cover and air cleaner you can squirt some throttle body cleaner down into it. I think the hose is like 3/8 inch | ||
| Foxy_1 |
Tbowdre- Thanks for your advice that is a big help. | ||
| Foxy_1 |
well the TPS Has done nothing tried three times.....will try the IAC later fingers crossed. | ||
| Foxy_1 |
Well I have tried cleaning the throttle bodies and IAC and it has made a big difference to the running from cold. I took her out for a ride and at first it was not picking up revs like it used to,you could wind open the throttle and not much would happen,then it would surge forward and even the mid range was lost,i was guessing this was all the throttle bodie cleaning fluid I had used,after about 10miles the engine light came on and stayed on.I pulled over stopped the bike for a while it re started fine and off I went,the engine light then came back on for a while and then stayed off.So far on the ride home the bike is running quite well and im hoping after a much longer ride next time it will be fine.Thanks again for the advice,this really is a great Forum. | ||
| Two_seasons |
Get the bike up to operating temperature, then do the TPS reset. After the TPS reset, you'll need to let it idle for a couple of minutes, then take your bike out and run it through the gears, making sure you do not go over the maximum closed-loop rpm while running your bike around the highway. I'm not sure what the max rpm is...sorry. It will take a couple of trips such as this for the ECM to re-learn. | ||
| Foxy_1 |
Two_seasons - Thanks for that I had only tried the TPS reset from cold so I will give that a go over the weekend. cheers | ||
| Foxy_1 |
So now ive tried the tps reset from warm and still no joy.i now also have the battery and engine light on.it only had a custom re wound stator from blackbear about 700miles ago including new battery.battery will not charge above 11.9 on run....and it still runs terrible no power then a sudden surge etc.any more ideas welcome. | ||
| Foxy_1 |
Forgot to say,the cold start and erratic idle problem has been sorted | ||
| Two_seasons |
Have your battery load tested at a good battery shop. That should tell the tale. If your battery is just discharged, have the battery shop charge it fully, then see what that does for your bike's response. If that isn't the problem and the battery is shot, buy a new one and expect the same results...good performance again! I've read on this board that some change out the voltage regulator annually, as in yearly preventative maintenance! Let us know what you find out. New bikes, with all these sensors, don't like voltage under +12VDC. | ||
| Foxy_1 |
Two_seasons - thanks for your reply,the battery has been checked this afternoon and is ok.it is now being fully charged again via my optimate,I was just concerned why it would not charge on a run,only discharge,my thoughts being the stator etc.however the stator and all other mods including a new battery was done last year by a very good main dealer I use.I will try again once battery has had a full charge and let you know.thanks again for your help with this . | ||
| Zac4mac |
Because the design carries a heat management F/U, the only real way to fix the stator failure is the get the rotor mod from EBR. Anything else is a band-aid that will be revisited. Oops, another fix is the 2008 charging system. Less watts and no heat failures, I have almost 29k with NO elect. issues. Stock electrics except Kuryakyn Voltmeter LED, Buell heated grips and HID lo-beams. Garaged, often on tender. nothing regular but at least a few days a month. Z | ||
| Foxy_1 |
Zac4mac - Thanks for your reply,battery was fully charged and set off for a ride volt 12.5,whilst riding it went to 12.7,but after about 20mins it dropped to 12.3 and stayed there...and still running very bad low down in the revs hardly wants to pull away,had the engine light on again and this time it displayed fault front 02 sensor for a few seconds.so still none the wiser for now. | ||
| Foxy_1 |
Been into diagnostic mode and found the following errors P0506 IAC sys error P0131 front 02 sys error P1047 AF system error P0134 front 02 sys error P0562 system voltage error I understand that some may be historical but is there a list of what these codes mean on the forum? Thanks | ||
| Stirz007 |
P0506 IAC sys error - rpm higher than expected P0131 front 02 sys error - front O2 circuit low/engine lean P1047 AF system error - feedback fuel cylinder difference too great P0134 front 02 sys error - front O2 sensor open/inactive P0562 system voltage error - battery voltage low | ||
| Satori |
I would start with the IAC, it performs a job similar to a cars Mass air sensor. My Silverado had its mass sensor slowly go bad, would throw a code, then go away, occasional stumble off idle, and lack of power, then suddenly run fine. It finally got consistent. It finally thew a code that sticked and guess what? same codes you have. To lean, o2 sensors out of range. The easy test to confirm was just to disconnect it (yes it threw a code) It ran better which was the confirmation. I replaced it, and it runs just like it should, and the other codes? they went away. Good luck | ||
| Foxy_1 |
Satori - Thanks for your reply,i think you are right and that will be my next step,i will let you know how I get on. cheers | ||
| Sir_wadsalot |
A clogged fuel filter will cause every FI code known to man on some engines. | ||
| S21125r |
Foxy_1 - couple of questions/comments... Are you running stock exhaust and stock ECM? What are the AFV # for front and rear? Based on what you report back for those two questions, I'll have better feedback for you. Although I wouldn't dismiss the IAC error just yet, I'm speculating that it's a secondary issue. The 047 code tells me that the AFVs between the cylinders are extremely different which would rule out a fuel pump, fuel filter, and IAC as these items support both cylinders concurrently. After market exhaust with a stock ECM might throw this code after awhile but I don't think anyone running that combo has had symptoms that severe. My preliminary guess is that your problem lies somewhere in the front cylinder fuel control loop. First thing I'd check is the front O2 Sensor. Not the end all test, but put a volt meter on it while running and it should output between 0-1 volts (will probably throw the 134 code again while unplugged). If in doubt replace it - they are cheap enough to expense for diagnostic purposes. If the O2 sensor is known good and the front AFV is high then I'd start looking at the front injector as possible being partially clogged or a leak in the boot between the TB and the head. If your really want to be proctological about it, then get a cable and a copy of Tuner Pro or ECM Spy so you can real time log all the parameters. Been awhile since I used it, but I can help get you off the ground with Tuner Pro if needed. | ||
| Foxy_1 |
S21125r -Thanks for taking the time to reply to me ,I am running a GPR exhaust with standard ECM this has been the setup for over 15 months now with no problems at all,the stock ECM seemed to adapt very well to this.I did email EBR to see if the could recommend what ECM to use but they do not have one programmed for this exhaust,so as I have had no problems since fitting it I have just left it alone. So far as the other settings AFV, do you mean the adaptive Fuel,sorry im not to familiar with these as last night was the first time I had used the diagnostic mode,if so they were reading as follows F ADAPTIVE FUEL 104.5 R ADAPTIVE FUEL 89.5 Some other readings I had noted were as follows TPS % 2.0 TPS VOLTAGE 0.6 IAC STEP 190 FUEL VOLTAGE 1.0 FRONT O2 VOLTAGE 0.4 REAR O2 VOLTAGE 0.4 Hope these may be of some help. and thanks for the offer of the Tuner Pro | ||
| Firemanjim |
Front at 104.5 means it is adding 4.5 % to front and at 89.5 the rear is pulling 10.5 % out as it sees a rich condition. And fuel injected bikes do not like low voltages as yours is seeing. | ||
| Foxy_1 |
Firemanjim -Thanks for the info,its actually now going back to the dealer I use at the weekend for them to check it over,they are great guys there,infact more like good friends so I will update the post once we sort out what has been going wrong. | ||
| Foxy_1 |
just an update,it looks like all the problems are the stator again,only managed 700 miles this time!,i have just placed a new post headed stator AGAIN! as im after some input | ||
| Foxy_1 |
Update it turns out it was the front plug that was fouled and the stator was burnt out,have now replaced front plug,had the stator rewound and now running the modified rotor,just not sure whether to remove the relay,(Harley band aid fix)or run with it as there is so much debate I will probably run with it for now. Thanks for eveyones input | ||
| Dannybuell |
I have 20K miles without the harness! | ||
| Foxy_1 |
Dannybuell...20k thats great,more seem to run without it seems |
