| Author | Message | ||
     Tomseliga |
Been a while since I posted just wanted to say thank you to all who helped me. I had a friend make me a bigger tensioner pully wheel. Bike is working great belt is tight now not slipping. (Had replaced my cr swing arm with an r on accident after a crash). Next on list to do change spark plugs. i read a thread that says you can do it with out rotating motor. And also that it probly needs to be dun. I have 8000mi on original plugs. Then going to Check sump screen when i change the oil. Also read that on here and havent done it. and going to use better oil. Also read about adding water wetter to coolant. Going to drain and fill with new coolant. Thank you so much everyone for all the info. Just changed the brake pads for the first time. Thinking about doing the denoid. Is there any other general maintinance I'm forgetting | ||
| Sir_wadsalot |
Sand your rotor with 100 grit when you pull the brakes. Changed my world. Hat tip to Jdugger. | ||
| Tomseliga |
Yes sir will do! | ||
| Sir_wadsalot |
I'm not sure about the mileage interval on plug change, but you're 4000 miles from the 12K valve check, so you may want to wait and do it then. Oil is a huge thing, especially if riding in the heat....geez there's so much maintenance niggles with these things.....yeah I was having brake issues, rotor was glazed from not heating it. Just from sanding the rotor and starting to do regular hard stops I went from a bad pulsing not trusting the front brake, to two finger stoppies. Haven't even changed pads yet. Use distilled water if you change to water wetter or something like that. | ||
| Cataract2 |
The millage for just an oil change is ~6000 miles. The millage for oil change, spark plugs and valve clearance is ~12000 miles. | ||
| Sir_wadsalot |
Plugs with the valve check, makes sense!  |
