| Author | Message | ||
     Andros |
Has anyone in here done a chain conversion without using the EBR kit, using either the Freespirits XB tensioner or the Grandstands version? Looks like the Freespirit solutions could work with a bit of fabrication since the arm symmetrical and therefore could be flipped. | ||
| Jdugger |
I would think it will be a bit difficult to get the chain length right. It would be a mixture of certain sprocket sizes and lengths to get close, and then depend on the tensioner for the balance. Also, you will need to fit chain rubs in a couple of places. I'm *shocked* with the rate they wear on the EBR kit. Why do you want a chain drive? | ||
| General_tso |
Jim, I'm waiting for my chain drive kit to arrive. If I'm interpreting your note correctly I should order some spare chain rubs? What chain are you running and how many races / sessions are you getting out of it? | ||
| Jdugger |
I'm on the 520 chain, and have multiple rear wheels. I'm running Aluminum vortex sprockets as recommended. The chain wear is totally reasonable. I think I'l get a season or so out of it for sure. The chain rubs, in particular the black one you fit into the swing arm, wears FAST. Within one or two track days TOPS. What really sucks is the rub requires you to split the chain to replace! (or split the rub, but then it's not nearly as secure.) | ||
| Smoke |
you might want to tighten the chain a bit Jim. i've gotten more than 1 season out of mine. the idler sprocket for me is a different story. tim | ||
| Jdugger |
I've got it tightened about the same as I would on a Japanese bike. Should it be *tight*, or have the usual two finders of movement on the bottom? Also, when you buy them new, the lower rub (the black one that fits in the swing arm) has a little nub on it that wears first. That thing is what wears so fast. The rub itself lasts much longer, but I've not known if I should replace it as soon as that nub wears... | ||
| Smoke |
i'm running just less than 2 fingers and i'm letting the swingarm insert groove up pretty good. it's there to protect the swingarm from the chain so i run it until i can almost see through it. ymmv tim | ||
| Battyone |
The standard swingarm geometry is all completely wrong for chain. The tiniest amount of movement changes the tension as the the arm gets longer the more it compresses. The safe way to set chain tension would be with the suspension at max compression,so the chain couldn't possibly get tighter. And a sprung tensioner would be a lot nicer for either chain or belt. Why do you think the output shaft is twice the size of the mille equivalent? And 1125s and XBs eat wheel bearings? | ||
| Smoke |
no cush drive on the sprocket side with the chain drive on the 1125r and constant on-off application of the throttle during racing is my appraisal of the bearing problem. sprocket side bearing is the bearing i have had problems with. dropped 4 mag wheels off yesterday to get that side sleeved as they got wallowed out over time tim | ||
| Jdugger |
The belts so the same, Smoke! You can get a cush drive in a PVM wheel, but it's an expensive way to go. | ||
| Nuts4mc |
+1 Bat1... a) why not look to a rice burner wheel that has cush drive and 3 brgs (I have a ZX6R wheel that I keep looking at...) b) a spring tensioner would also help with the rear suspension settings (shock spring rate)...(time to go to the junk yard and see what automotive application might work...) | ||
| Xtreme6669 |
A spring tensioner wouldn't work very well on decell thou would it? The chain would pull the tensioner all the way tight and you'd have a ton of slack on the top. | ||
| 99buellx1 |
Smoke has (had) some of the PVM wheels. Those are a nice setup. ...though, they don't like the curbing at BHF. I was told to run my chain tension set where you can get two fingers between the chain and the arm at the TOP where that rub is. | ||
| Jdugger |
Pic of that, 99? | ||
| Battyone |
I run fireblade wheels and used to set chain tension with the swingarm strapped to the subframe. Sounds horrible when there's no power thru the chain...slaps like a good un. Got the tension wrong once...and bent the swingarm spindle!!!!! New bike much lower and movement is either side of the tight/long point. But you won't be wanting to run yours with 2" ground clearance and an open megaphone...lol | ||
| 99buellx1 |
Jim- I don't, an unfortunately, the bike is a couple hours away in hibernation yet. | ||
| Smoke |
haven't replaced a bearing yet on the pvm cush drive wheels. never changed a rear bearing on the belt drive either. we broke 2 wheels last year, 1 front at BHF and one rear at NOLA. the PVM rears are about $1400 ea new. ouch! tim | ||
| Jdugger |
Smoke, I never wore out a wheel bearing on the belt drive either, I wore out the *wheels*, as the journal on the Mg wheels would slowly wear away until the point the bearing wouldn't stay in the wheel. I have a single PVM wheel that cost me nearly $2,000 landed. It does not have a cush drive, but there is something special about how it feels. I also had it made in Al for greater durability. By feel, it weighs ever so slightly more than a Buell Mg wheel. | ||
| Andros |
If its possible on XB how come its not on the 1125? |
