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Jhuppdog
Posted on Sunday, March 03, 2013 - 10:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

This may seem like an odd question, but is there a benefit to removing the spring in the clutch actuator?

Myself and another 1125 rider were going to install a new clutch actuator because mine had developed the weep. When we removed the clutch actuator he noticed that the spring was missing. Is there a reason the PO would have removed the spring?

I have owned the bike since last fall and other than the weep I have never had a problem with it. I plan on ordering a spring for it but I thought I would check in here and see if there is a reason it would have been removed.
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Nuts4mc
Posted on Monday, March 04, 2013 - 09:10 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

the clutch rod activation is a "pull" rather than a "push" like on rice burners...removing the spring would remove any "pre-load" the piston would have to have in order to remove "play" in the system - felt up at the clutch lever.
removing a spring "may" help a slipping clutch stop slipping, but the clutch action up at the lever may be:
1) harder to pull
2) feel like it has too much "free play" ( like a loose cable activated clutch...needing adjustment)
when and if you replace the spring ( often it goes flying after you take the spherical nut off and finally coax the piston out of the original cylinder) you may have the following results:
a) an easier clutch pull at the lever
b) a slipping clutch - test it in a low gear going up a steep hill - or a high gear at high speed...the tach will indicate high RPM - but the speedo won't be moving...you'll hear the engine spool up without the speed to match it.
hope this helps
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Jhuppdog
Posted on Monday, March 04, 2013 - 09:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks for the info.

I think I'll order a new spring and keep my fingers crossed the my clutch doesn't start slipping. I assume this is something I have to order through the dealer.
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Jdugger
Posted on Tuesday, March 05, 2013 - 08:49 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If we are talking about the roughly 1.5" diameter compression spring that goes into the clutch slave piston assembly, I've run without it and not had issues.

I don't really understand the purpose of the spring -- it's not strong enough to really impact clutch clamping pressures, in my opinion, and the natural tendency of the slave piston is to return because of the main clutch springs.

What it DOES do effectively is cause the slave piston to pop out spraying everything with DOT4 and chasing you around the shop looking for parts that were shot out of the clutch cover. This is a pain in the ass.

I use an internal circlip in mine when servicing the clutch to hold the slave in place.
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Jhuppdog
Posted on Wednesday, March 06, 2013 - 08:35 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yes, we are talking about the 1.5" compressions spring.

Since it doesn't appear this spring is necessary would you suggest buying one and installing it or since it works leave it alone?
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Nuts4mc
Posted on Thursday, March 07, 2013 - 09:12 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

the springs in the clutch interact with the spring in the slave cylinder...if the spherical nut is kept tight on the "pull rod" the springs in the clutch will do the job of the PIA spring in the slave cylinder...if you should adjust the spherical nut to where (a) it is just tight enough ( or loose enough) so you can engage the clutch so you can shift gears (ie get it into neutral) ....or (b) the clutch plates should wear - the spring in the slave cylinder would take up the slack caused by (a) or (b)....JD is a wizard on brakes and clutches - he maintains his equipment for optimum performance on the track - (IMO)the original designers of the engine added the PIA spring for those of us that don't want to change clutch plates every season...it's a "belt and suspenders" solution to the issue caused by clutch plate wear...these engines are to die for - the torque happens right where most of us ride - the clutch takes on a big role in getting that power to the ground...add the spring or check your plates with every oil change if you leave it out...BTW JD has a slipper clutch in his bike a much better solution than the vacuum operated "cost savings" method that HD most likely dictated to the designers.

(Message edited by nuts4mc on March 07, 2013)
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Jhuppdog
Posted on Thursday, March 07, 2013 - 09:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The spherical nut is tight on the pull rod. I don't have any issues with shifting or getting the bike in neutral.

Any idea if not having the spring shorten the life span of my clutch?
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Jdugger
Posted on Thursday, March 07, 2013 - 09:36 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Clutch packs are cheap, anyway. $220 for a Barnett and it's fine.

The spring does keep the piston against the spherical nut so there's never any slop in the clutch pull, I'll give it that.

Personally, I drilled through my spherical and tapped it so I can adjust it until it's just tight and then back off a titch. I set it with loctite blue (I have to), but it works great.

Drawback? I think like nut implies, I don't have trouble because I'm adjusting that thing every other oil change because I'm inside the clutch shimming for plate wear with the slipper, anyway. I'd think if you took my approach, it would be worth adjusting checking that not fairly often.

I also take apart the slave piston (I use the oberon), clean with alcohol, and reassemble with fresh synthetic grease and new DOT4. I do that probably every time I put in a fresh clutch pack, so 2-3 times a season. Race starts and a softly set slipper equal a lot of clutch wear.
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