| Author | Message | ||
     Cherry_bomb |
i bought the brembo mastercylinders (brake and clutch) rcs 19 for the track bike. they should arrive any time soon and i need to put them on soon, because some track days in aragon are closing in. here's a question for the guys who have it: the brake/clutch line connectors are located differently on the cylinders, do i need to have new lines made (other connectors and other angles) or do they fit plug and play? and: what have you done with the clutch switch? put it somewhere switched to on? | ||
| Sportster_mann |
I wonder if you can use one of these to activate the clutch switch ? http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/3/13/123/2678 1/ITEM/Goodridge-Banjo-Bolt-with-Built-In-Brake-Li ght-Pressure-Switch.aspx I've used them in the past as brake switches - I imagine that the principal is the same. | ||
| 01fxdx |
I use that switch to activate a 2 step launch control on my drag bike. It's normally open and closes under pressure. If that helps. | ||
| Jdugger |
> the brake/clutch line connectors are located differently on the cylinders, do i need to > have new lines made (other connectors and other angles) or do they fit plug and play? You can use the stock lines, though the clutch will "bend out" a bit oddly, I've not had trouble. I am presuming you have gone to clip-ons, so your bars are already lower and therefore the bend of the line existing the MC isn't as critical... In this pic you can see how my line routes out because of the OEM line:  On the brake side, I had Galfer make a special brake line for me that's also longer than OEM making front wheel changes a LOT easier. Their superbike lines are really nice for front brake feel -- much tighter feel. >and: what have you done with the clutch switch? put it somewhere switched to on? I don't worry about it. The only real drawback is you have to be in N to start the bike. Leave it disconnected, IMHO. For what it's worth, if you get the EBR race harness, it doesn't even have a clutch switch in it! What's that tell you? I would have suspicions about the pressure switch being sensitive enough for a clutch operation, and anyway, why introduce another point of failure to a system that simply doesn't need it. | ||
| Cherry_bomb |
jdugger, thanks for that answers...really appreciate it! | ||
| General_tso |
After installing the Brembos and Clip-ons I wasn't comfortable with the angle the stock brake and clutch lines came off the MCS so I measured and had Speigler make lines with fittings at the correct angle. Like JDugger, I had the front brake line made longer to aid in front wheel replacement. cost for both lines was $140 US | ||
| Kruizen |
I bought the custom ends and lines at motorcylesuperstore and made my own. The ends are threaded and you can order pretty much any angle for the banjo. | ||
| Cherry_bomb |
how much longer is the brake line for easier wheel change? 1 inch, 2 inch? | ||
| General_tso |
I didn't keep good records but if I remember correctly I added 4" of length. This causes the line to bow out a bit between the clamp and the caliper. Basically I made sure it was long enough that with my bike on the front stand I am able to lower the wheel to the ground with the caliper in place leaving enough slack in the line so that I can still get the caliper off the wheel without having to hold the wheel off the ground. | ||
| 99buellx1 |
I bought an extended line from EBR. | ||
| General_tso |
99 ---- That line is too long when you switch to clip-ons and the RCS. Cherry ---- Forgot I have the EBR line which I am willing to sell. Send me a PM if you're interested | ||
| Cherry_bomb |
the one with the stäubli dry-brake? | ||
| Jdugger |
> the one with the stäubli dry-brake? That one is roughly OEM length. Since it has a dry-break, you just disconnect it to drop the caliper. | ||
| General_tso |
The standard extended line not the staubli dry brake. |
