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Buell Forum » 1125R Superbike Board » Stator/Voltage Regulator/Charging System subforum » Archive through January 29, 2013 » Alternative way to tighten Rotor nut. « Previous Next »

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Redbat
Posted on Monday, October 15, 2012 - 01:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'm thinking about tightening the rotor nut with an impact wrench rated at 300 lbs. maximum torque. I have the correct crankshaft locking tool in place. Is this a good idea, or will this possibly break the locking tool tip?
Has anyone tried this yet?
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Hildstrom
Posted on Monday, October 15, 2012 - 02:53 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If you use a properly rated impact wrench, you shouldn't need the locking tool. I removed and reinstalled the rotor nut using my impact wrench with the rear wheel off the ground in 6th gear. Jsg4dfan removed it in neutral without heating the original nut/loctite. There should be plenty of inertia in the system to impact the nut with the transmission in neutral without the locking tool.

If the locking tool can take 300 ft-lbs from a torque wrench, it should be able to take 300 ft-lbs from an impact wrench as it approaches maximum. However, I did it without the locking tool and it is still holding good 2500 miles later.
http://hildstrom.com/projects/buellstator/index.ht ml#rotormodification
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Dennis_c
Posted on Monday, October 15, 2012 - 09:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

All of you math guys will this work? I want to get to 300' lbs. If you have a 100' LBS torque wrench thats 1' long can you weld ends on a 2 foot pipe so you can use a socket on the end of the 2' pipe your total length is 3' from center of scocket to end of torque wrench. Or would the pipe be 3' long then use a 100 LBS torque wrench or am I all with this idea. My torque wrench is 16" long would make the pipe 20" long? I would weld the ends on the pipe so I could use socket and torque wrench.
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Reepicheep
Posted on Monday, October 15, 2012 - 09:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

No, that won't work. The torque wrench measures torque no matter how far out from the axis it is applied.

What you can do is get a 3 foot long normal wrench and put 100 pounds of force at the end of it. Thats 300 foot pounds.

If you are willing to post your weight, we can easily calculate how many inches out on a 2 foot breaker bar you will need to stand. It will give a fairly accurate measurement. I don't need a very long wrench these days. ; )
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Hildstrom
Posted on Tuesday, October 16, 2012 - 11:02 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Why won't Dennis_c's idea work? He's talking about using an extension along the axis of the torque wrench handle, not the rotational axis. It's the same principle as using a cheater bar or a wrench with a longer handle, but from the drive side of the torque wrench. A 1' torque wrench, with a 2' drive-side extension, reading 100 ft-lbs should be equivalent to hanging 100 lbs off the end of a 3' wrench. Check out these links:

http://www.freeinfostuff.com/TorqueExtension/Torqu eExtension.htm
http://www.norbar.com/calculators/torque-wrench-ex tension-calculator.aspx
http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=1261 18
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Sprintst
Posted on Tuesday, October 16, 2012 - 11:26 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Harbor Freight failed to get my torque wrench to me on time, so I used a standard socket bar and an extension

As a former mechanic, I'm pretty confident it's close enough, and much more would have broke that nut, there isn't a lot of beef to it
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Al_lighton
Posted on Tuesday, October 16, 2012 - 11:39 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

An engine builder that I trust cautioned me to never use an impact wrench on a bolted together flywheel. I don't have any personal experience with it, but I was told that it is possible to affect flywheel truing using an impact wrench. Truth, or wives tale? I dunno, but I won't do it. YMMV

DOH!!! 1125 thread, it isn't a bolted flywheel like on an XB or tuber.....

A known weight at the right distance works just fine for me.

Al

(Message edited by al_lighton on October 16, 2012)
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Rodrob
Posted on Tuesday, October 16, 2012 - 12:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I would never use an impact to torque a stator nut because:

A. It might come loose when you don't want it too
B. It might never come loose when you want it too
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Reepicheep
Posted on Tuesday, October 16, 2012 - 01:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

My bad, I misunderstood Dennis' post. I thought he meant just extend the handle.

Hmmm. I think it would work, as 10 pounds on the end of the 1' bar should surely be 10 foot pounds where that bar mounts to... well... the other bar. That torque has to go through that perpendicular socket joint. Seems like it would have to work. And that force if applied to a longer lever arm would multiply according to the length.
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Oldog
Posted on Tuesday, October 16, 2012 - 01:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Im Glad that no one has suffered a rotor failure, has any one considered that the beats of the impact may cause the glue used to hold the magnets in the rotor to fail?

Tuber rotors are marked not to use an inpact
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Redbat
Posted on Tuesday, October 16, 2012 - 02:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I think I need to restate the question. I understand everything in the replies so far, and thank you. But......I'm asking a specific question. Will the "hammering" of the impact wrench possibly break off the tip of the locking tool.
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Kevmean
Posted on Tuesday, October 16, 2012 - 02:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I think there is a real possibility it could ........... you will be subjecting the tool to shock loads which is a lot different to a steady load as applied by using a torque wrench.
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Hughlysses
Posted on Tuesday, October 16, 2012 - 06:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If the problem is finding a torque wrench rated for the required torque, try your local auto parts store for their "loaner" tools. Generally no cost, and they're apt to have a MUCH better wrench than you could afford to buy.
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Dennis_c
Posted on Tuesday, October 16, 2012 - 06:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hildstrom
thats what I was talking about. The difference is the length from center of the torque wrench handle to the socket is 45" with the torque wrench set at 100' lbs to get 300' lbs. that helped a lot now I can make a home made one http://www.freeinfostuff.com/TorqueExtension/Torqu eExtension.htm
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Redbat
Posted on Tuesday, October 16, 2012 - 11:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Kevmean is the only one that understands the question.
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Kevmean
Posted on Wednesday, October 17, 2012 - 12:15 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yep I think the others have gone off on a tangent lol ............. it happens a lot on UKBeg as well :-) .........If you look at the next post down about piece of locking tool broken off I think that alone is enough to say it's not worth the chance of breaking it ; )
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Redbat
Posted on Wednesday, October 17, 2012 - 10:04 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Kevmean, thanks. I read that thread too, but he was using a non-hardened homemade locking tool. I'm using the correct locking tool. When I started this thread, I had already torqued the rotor nut down with a two foot breaker bar, but everyone else seems to assume I need advice on how to tighten down the nut. I am simply wondering if the impact wrench would also be an alternate way to torque the nut down without causing any other problems. I regret starting out saying "I'm thinking about".

(Message edited by redbat on October 17, 2012)
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Rodrob
Posted on Wednesday, October 17, 2012 - 01:05 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have removed several rotor nuts with an impact with the blessing of EBR. So I would think you could tighten it. But I would never do it that way. And you must make sure that the locking tool is properly seated in the notch in the crank.



It's fairly easy to miss. You are more likely to bugger the crank making it more difficult to lock in the future, than to break off the tool. The gap between where the tool exits the case and seats in the crank is very small. Properly seated, shearing off the tool would take tremendous force. I think the case would crack before that would happen.
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Figorvonbuellingham
Posted on Wednesday, October 17, 2012 - 01:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Using a impact is by no means a good method to get an accurate torque. It hammers different torque increments indiscriminately. There is a very good chance of overtorque not to mention damage to other componenets from the hammering frequencies. If you hit 300 ftlbs on the first blow and it beats on it for two or three blows it will stretch the bolt further. Thats why you should only click one time with a clicker type torque wrench.

An impulse gun is a completely different tool and looks very similiar to an impact gun. An impulse gun you can set to any torque spec within its parimeters and it will only hit that spec once then pulse after it reaches that spec so there is no further torque. You could certainly use an impulse tool to torque this joint but I would never use and impact. I think that is only asking for trouble. My 2 cents.
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Redbat
Posted on Thursday, October 18, 2012 - 12:06 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Rodrob, what do you mean by "But I would never do it that way"?
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Redbat
Posted on Thursday, October 18, 2012 - 12:09 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Never mind, I reread it and figured out what you mean. Thanks.
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Rodrob
Posted on Thursday, October 18, 2012 - 05:41 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

See Figorvonbuellingham's post above.
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Azxb9r
Posted on Friday, October 19, 2012 - 04:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Will the "hammering" of the impact wrench possibly break off the tip of the locking tool.

Yes... if you are going to use an impact do not use the locking tool. Repeatedly hit and release the trigger on the impact to get it tight. Keep in mind that while the impact may be rated at a certain torque it needs to have enough pressure and volume to deliver that torque. A 5 gal. tank with a 1/4" hose is not going to deliver enough volume(regardless of pressure) to achieve max. torque.
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Bud
Posted on Saturday, October 20, 2012 - 10:09 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

just me asking stupid questions

i ask EBR too why the high TQ on the nut,
"other wise they come loose"

ok, but if they come loose , means there is play on the splines ? and the accelerating and decelerating mass will cause the nut to loosen because the rotor has room to move,
why not make sure there is no more room to move ?
and put a little bushing loc-tide on the splines, not on the oil bore channel off course ?
we use to fix hubs on splines like this, when they clicked reversing forward / back ward.
true, they become a bitch to loosen again

just a little mind fart from me

gr, B
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Rodrob
Posted on Saturday, October 20, 2012 - 01:41 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Why is there so much angst about tightening the nut to 300 ft/lbs? Whats the big deal?
Right now you can get a 3/4 in 300 ft/lb clicker torque wrench from Harbor Freight for $10. Works like a charm. Who here weight less that 100lbs? Just sayin'.
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Bud
Posted on Saturday, October 20, 2012 - 02:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Lol I'm not afraid done it more than ones
Only need to bolt a loose engine down to the workbench an some guys helping holding it
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Rodrob
Posted on Saturday, October 20, 2012 - 05:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Put the motor back in the bike, then put the rotor and stator/cover on.
One thing I have learned is to take all high torque nuts off while the motor is still in the bike and put them back on when the motor is back in the bike.
This includes crank shaft nut, rotor nut, clutch nut and VSS rotor screw.
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Dennis_c
Posted on Saturday, October 20, 2012 - 05:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Rodrob are you sure you can get a 3/4 in 300 ft/lb clicker torque wrench from Harbor Freight for $10. I have never seen a 3/4 that cheap. I have seen the 1/4 3/8 1/2 that was ether $10 or $20
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Rodrob
Posted on Sunday, October 21, 2012 - 02:26 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have an add I believe from Road Racing World, with a coupon. $9.95 your choice of 3/8, 1/2 or 3/4 clicker. Good till 11/1. Paid $79 two weeks ago. Going there tomorrow for a refund.
Look in the back of bike or car mags. It should be there.
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Scooter9495
Posted on Sunday, October 21, 2012 - 06:17 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The ones i have seen are 1/4-3/8-1/2 for that price. If its a real coupon for the 3/4 thats one HELLUVA deal.Hopefully they accept it.
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Battyone
Posted on Sunday, October 21, 2012 - 06:52 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yeah if they had made the rotor fit the crank properly none of this would be an issue.
Probably made by different suppliers.

I'm taking a crank assembly for balancing soon,I'm sure they'll find it amusing.
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Scooter9495
Posted on Sunday, October 21, 2012 - 07:31 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Here is a couple coupons for harbor freight if anyone wants them, these are email coupons so you can print them and use at store





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Rodrob
Posted on Sunday, October 21, 2012 - 03:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

DOH! You are absolutely correct. 1/2 not 3/4. My bad. Guess it was wishful thinking on my part. Sorry to send you on a wild goose chase.
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