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Buell Forum » 1125R Superbike Board » Archive through November 18, 2012 » Sticking clutch « Previous Next »

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Kruizen
Posted on Sunday, October 07, 2012 - 06:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

swapped out the clutch Acutator with the EBR one. clutch started slipping after that swap out, one of the steel plates was warped.

Swapped out the plates and springs withe the Barnett plate kit from American Sport Bike. Now the clutch plates are randomly sticking, making finding neutral a real bear sometimes. To find neutral I need to blip the throttle to 4k with the clutch pulled in to break the plates apart inorder to get to neutral.

I've pulled it apart 3 times so far, the initial install, and 2 more times pulling the plates to reinstall-making sure everything is installed correctly.

I changed the oil thinking it might have been the oil, but it continued. Any ideas?

Also thinking I might replace every other Barnett spring with the stock spring to lighten up the pull. But am more concerned with the sticking at this point.

(Message edited by kruizen on October 07, 2012)
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Nuts4mc
Posted on Monday, October 08, 2012 - 12:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

a) do you have aftermarket levers? - do you have them "set" too close to the bar/clip on - if you don't have enough lever travel - the slave cylinder will not travel far enough to "release" the clutch.
b) when you changed plates did you count the number of plates removed? - did it match what you re-installed?
c) re-bleed the system (trapped air)
d) re-build the master cylinder (up on the bar)
e) others have replaced their plates - BUT used the original springs....hope this helps
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Kevmean
Posted on Monday, October 08, 2012 - 12:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

It seems like your clutch problems started as soon as you fitted the ebr kit, another member on here also had a problem with his clutch as soon as he fitted the ebr kit. Is there a possibility that either
A..... you both made some mistake fitting the kits or B........ that there is possibly something wrong with the machining of some of the kits????????
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Kruizen
Posted on Monday, October 08, 2012 - 01:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

IF it was an all the time thing it would be easier to pin-point. it'll be fine for a while then it starts acting up, blip the throttle and no problem getting it into neutral, then its good for a little while then back to issues getting into neutral.

Tear it apart and pull all plates apart, then its good for a day or so. Seems like not enough/to much oil is in that area causing the plates to stick together.

The acutator has good movement, yes I have after market levers, Brembo RCS19 adjusted to almost all the way out, so about 20. when I'm having issues I can feel it pulling when in gear with clutch pulled in, blip the throttle to 4k and it stops pulling and will slip right into neutral.

The only difference in the plates was that there wasn't one of the steel plates with the extra notch on the outside of the plate, supposed to be the 1st plate in. Figured I'd get through VIR this upcoming weekend, then pull it apart again and use the stock 1st plate and see if that makes a difference.
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Kruizen
Posted on Tuesday, October 09, 2012 - 08:08 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Looking thru the service manual, says if clutch is dragging or sticking that the clutch spacer might be missing or installed backwards. I cannot figure out what part they are talking about.

Anyone have an idea?
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Bartone
Posted on Thursday, October 11, 2012 - 01:18 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Just to add to this topic,I just purchased and installed my EBR clutch piston.
Question is.. Is it suppose to be a much stiffer/ heavier pull compared to the stock? It seems like I would need almost twice the strength to pull in the clutch.

Another thing is that now when I pull in my clutch, I would hear air being forced out form the little breather hole on the left side of the clutch cover. I cant recall if I was able to hear this before and if its normal or not.
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Mako
Posted on Thursday, October 18, 2012 - 04:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

is the spacer the plate with the extra notch?
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Gofastalot99
Posted on Friday, October 19, 2012 - 02:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Did you use a different type of oil after the work was done? I ask because I installed a racing clutch on my XL a long time ago and the clutches are sensitive to the type of lube I use.
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Kruizen
Posted on Friday, October 19, 2012 - 07:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Don't know if that plate is considered the spacer.

Had 20-50 in there thought that might have been it, changed to 10-40 as recommended on twinmotorcycles web site, little bit better but still is giving problems.

Going to put extra notch steel plate back in and swap out 3 of the springs with stock springs and see if that does anything. Just working on getting the motivation to do it again.
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Pwillikers
Posted on Thursday, January 09, 2014 - 11:59 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Eric, I'm still in the same boat as you. Have you ever resolved the clutch dragging?

When I replaced my leaking clutch slave cylinder with the EBR kit I also swapped in Barnett plates. Since then my clutch has been dragging. In first gear with the clutch disengaged it walks forward and it's almost impossible to find neutral.

Suspecting air in the lines, I've bled it and bled it and bled it with a Mighty Vac and I've also back bled it with a big syringe pressurizing the slave cylinder. Nothing has worked.

I'm wondering if I should pull the Barnett plates and install stock ones. Did you find any resolution or other suggestions? Are there esoteric bleeding techniques particular to this bike I'm missing?

Also, did you ever determine what that mysterious "spacer" is that the manual cites as may be missing?

Thanks for the help. This is frustrating the shit outta me.
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