| Author | Message | ||
     Kruizen |
Been searching on how-to but cannot seem to find the threads, I'm sure I looked right at them in the search screen. I just ordered the EBR Clutch kit and have to get it installed ASAP, so I could use some help. It the clutch fluid was just dripping I wouldn't be in a hurry, but its pouring out. Are there any band aids I can perform until the kit gets here? I ordered it with overnight shipping, as I'm headed to NJMP | ||
| 99buellx1 |
No band aid. | ||
| Kruizen |
EBR is going to get it to me tomorrow, started tearing it down, Already got the sprhrical nut off, how do I get the piston out? Do I have to take he entire cover off to get the piston out? Thanks (Message edited by Kruizen on September 21, 2012) | ||
| Kevmean |
The slave cylinder comes out from the back so the complete cover needs to come off then remove the circlip and push the cylinder out of the case. Makes sure you line the new one up with it's notches in the case and be very careful not to damage the orings pushing it back into the case. | ||
| Kruizen |
Wow that snap ring was a bitch to get out. | ||
| Brumbear |
be very careful with the diaphram and make sure you take the bleeder out before you knock out the cup and use wood don't bugger anything up with steel on aluminum. Good luck the only part of it gave me trouble was getting the new cup in but I was using a new cover cause I buggered the old one up  | ||
| Kruizen |
So I've been looking at the piston/sleeve/nut, what is failing on these parts and how? Seems like the O-rings are the weak point. Looking at the EBR pistion it shows 3 seperate o-rings on each band. The piston I pulled out has 1 thicker/flat rubber ring on each level of the piston. | ||
| Kruizen |
Update, went to ace hardware and picked up some o-rings used 2 13/16x5/8x3/32 on the small end of the piston and 2 1-3/8x3/16x3/32 on the large end of the piston. the ID are good, would have liked to find slightly small thickness but the OD seem fine as well. Put all back together bled the clutch and took it for a ride, work great. today will be the test for how long it'll hold. going to ride to work. Wish me luck | ||
| Nuts4mc |
be careful - most hardware Orings are made from Buna-N or Neoprene = does not play well with brake fluid ( they will swell up)....you need Orings made from EPDM = plays well with brake fluid or hot water...might want to check a plumbing supply place as well as an auto parts store...wishing you good luck! | ||
| Kruizen |
EBR part was just delivered so I can get it installed tonight when I get home. UPS was telling me that it was picked up to late for Saturday delivery when they told EBR that it was not a problem. Well they came thru after making a couple of phone calls to them. Its a short drive so I feel comfortable to get home at least. Thanks for the info on materials. | ||
| Brumbear |
I would do it KruiZ cause if the rings are not made of I forget what they call it edm or something they swell and stick and you will never get it apart get those hardware store ones out of there asap.Believe me man I been down that road the very first set I had made before the fix was available did that shyt I had to get all new sets made cost me a pretty penny.The second sets I had made lasted awhile but as soon as the fix became available in it went. | ||
| Kruizen |
Yup getting the piston out so I could get the spring was a bitch. Well EBR kit is in and bled, going to test ride tomorrow am. But the piston has plenty of movement so I don't expect any issues now. | ||
| Brumbear |
Great to hear man!!!! | ||
| Kruizen |
Plenty of outward movement, but when I put it in gear it acts like I still have the clutch pulled in. Got it apart again. Any ideas? The notch is lined up on te sleeve, can bleed it fully. How much play should be post that the sperical nut screws onto have? In/out play? | ||
| Kevmean |
The Oberon unit comes built up as a complete unit so is a simple fit and bleed job .......... no reusing springs or any of the old Orings etc ......the manual gives a torque figure for the spherical nut so it should be done up tight and not left with any play at all. | ||
| Twobuells |
I have a 2008 with the old style cover Recall was done when the bike was new, but still with the small puck cover. I bought a EBR Cylinder. When I went to install the EBR unit I didn't think it would fit. At the time I didn't know you have to install from the rear. So I just replaced the o-ring on the nut and the old unit is working ok for now I do want to install the EBR unit but what orings and or gaskets do I need? I'd like to get new orings before I take it apart. | ||
| Kruizen |
I put it all together the piston is far enough in and the spherical nut is tightened, bleed the clutch, and the in/out play in the clutch release pin allows the piston to move far enough out that it won't return(move in). It almost seems like the spring is to tall and is pushing the piston to far out. My question is how far in/out play should the clutch release pin have? Looking at the exploded clutch diagram it looks like it is floating, but I could tighten the nut holding the outer disk plate on the outside of the diaphram. was running a brembo master cylinder, took that off and put the old one on and it still did it. | ||
| Brumbear |
IDK did you lock the bolt through the spherical nut? I think that is adjustable? I didn't have any problems. | ||
| Kruizen |
Yes, starting to really piss me off. | ||
| Kruizen |
How much play did ur bolt have | ||
| Father_of_an_era |
Kruizen, I had the same issue. With some help by our fellow badwebers, I learned that you don't want to over tighten the spherical nut. So, after much frustration, I put it all back together for the third time but after tightening the spherical nut I loosened it one half turn. Bled the clutch again and it was good to go. Give it a try and let us know. Oh, and if you have aftermarket levers, just remember that some levers don't allow you clutch to travel all the way causing issues with gearing. But, its probably the spherical nut being overtightened because your issues sound exactly like the ones I had. The bike ran great until it got hot then the clutch wouldn't engage all the way. I took some advice about backing the spherical nut 1/2 turn and all was good. | ||
| Kruizen |
No joy, emailed EBR. Just don't get it. Got the old one ready to go back in with my plumbing o-rings. Backed it out 1/2, then 1 full turn. Seemed like it was going to work but I could still push the bike forward in 1st gear Going to put the brembo rcs 19 master back on and reinstall the old one tonight when I get back from Busch gardens. Had to get away from it. (Message edited by Kruizen on September 23, 2012) | ||
| Kevmean |
When you first removed the spherical nut did you make sure you held the threaded rod it's screwed onto using an allen key? ...If not has it disturbed whatever that attaches into at the other end? | ||
| Kruizen |
Well I think I got it, well I cannot test ride it till the morning, but it looks correct. Tore into the clutch and found that the outermost clutch plate had shifted down thus not allowing the clutch to release, don't know when it happened. after I put it back together I couldn't roll the bike in 1st, and when in gear with clutch pulled in I could spin the rear wheel. so in theory I got it. | ||
| Father_of_an_era |
Well, I hope you got it too. Good luck! | ||
| Kruizen |
Ok well so far so good, made it to work. Feels like the clutch is slipping a little bit, might try backing off the sperical nut and ride again. Because of the fact that the top plate was wedged, im worried it may have done more damage than i saw, so I've ordered a clutch plate pack from American Sport Bike to be on the safe side, I'd rather have it and not need it than need it and not have it. | ||
| Kruizen |
Well it was definitely slipping, backed the nut off 1/2 turn and much better. Going to locktite it tonight when I get home and ride it for a couple of days and see how it is. Looks like the clutch replacement is pretty straight forward on these bikes. Anyone have input on how long their clutch lasted, I've got 12k miles of which probably 4k are track days. I have been known to drop a couple of gears and have the back tire skip around breaking after a straight. And bounce it off he rev limiter a time or 2. | ||
| Father_of_an_era |
One thing I forgot to mention. Make sure you replace the brake fluid after the first 30-50 miles or so. It get really dirty really fast. I assume the actuator has some breaking in to do after install because my fluid was absolutely filthy. I had to do a thorough flush to ensure all the deposits were removed. I have put approx. 2000 miles on her so far without issue. I can't add to clutch replacement since I have not had to do mine. Sucks that you have to do yours already. Good luck bro. | ||
| Kruizen |
Installed the clutch pack and the Barnett springs. Little bit harder pull but nothing I cannot live with, going to keep the stock springs just in case I want to switch back. YEAH I HAVE MY BIKE BACK!!!!!!! pulled awesome, just put in the EBR programmable ECM with the race map, it a totally new bike. I can't wait for NJMP this weekend to see how everything works together. | ||
| Kruizen |
PROPS to EBR just had a call from Danny, following up on my email regarding my issues over the weekend. | ||
| Brumbear |
Really glad you got it sorted out. When you removed the spherical nut did you lock the inside part the first time? | ||
| Kruizen |
Yup, the clutch release pin just spins, if you take off the clutch spring plate it comes off with it. It is just a pin that doesn't screw into anything, all tension on it comes from the clutch springs and the actuator spring. It actually is pretty amazing how simple this clutch is to replace. Literally 1/2 hour and that includes bleeding. Could have done it without loosing oil, but needed to change the oil anyways. Was actually planning on doing this up at njmp if needed this weekend, but had some time tonight so just got it done. Joanne at American Sport Bike was also very helpful when I ordered the clutch kit. |
