| Author | Message | ||
     Faceyman |
I am getting ready for new tires and have spent the last hour or so searching the 1125R Superbike Board for Front & Rear Wheel Removal Tips. Here's my cut & paste from multiple posts, is there anything that I am missing? 2009 Buell1125R Front & Rear Wheel Removal Rear Wheel Removal (Note: threads are reverse threads) 1) Remove top and bottom belt guards. 2) Remove 2 bolts hold rear caliper and nest in swingarm recess. 3) Loosen/ remove pinch bolt 4) Support bike off of rear wheel 5) Support rear wheel (wood block) 6) Remove left handed rear axle 7) Now remove axle. 8) Roll rear wheel slightly forward and remove belt and remove wheel. (Note: During reassembly put belt in place before tightening axle, axle taper will allow belt to auto adjust) Rear Wheel Torque values: Caliper bolts: 18-20 lbs/ft Pinch bolt: 40-42 lbs/ft Axle bolt: tighten to 27 lbs/ft loosen back up again two full turns re-tighten to 48-52 lbs/ft The reason for the axle tighten/loosen/re-tight procedure is to properly seat the wheel bearings. Front Wheel Removal (Note: threads are reverse threads) 1) Lift the bike 2) Remove front fender 3) remove caliber bolts 4) loosen pinch bolts on axle 5) remove axle 6) slide wheel back to clear room for caliber 7) pull caliber off to the side and let hang 8) remove wheel Front Wheel Torque values: Front axle 39 - 41 ft-lbs Caliper bolts 35 - 37 Axle pinch bolts 20 - 22 ----------------------------------- Fender bolts 72 - 82.5 in-lbs P clamp 36 - 60 Rear wheel Axle tighten to 23 - 27 ft-lbs back off two turns then tighten to 48 - 52 Pinch bolt 40-45 Caliper bolts 23.5 - 26 p clamp 18 - 20 | ||
| Craigg |
For the rear wheel you do not have to remove the top belt guard. | ||
| Duphuckincati |
For the rear wheel, consider removing the little half-fender and leaving the caliper alone. This allows you to lift the wheel up and out and the fender bolts are easier to deal with than the caliper bolts. You need to angle the wheel a bit to clear the rim past the caliper, but overall this method seems slightly easier to me. For the front you can remove the fender and turn the fork assembly to one side and move the wheel back and clear the disc from the caliper, again without needed to unbolt the caliper. But you need a front stand with the steering stem attachment. | ||
| Sprintst |
I've never supported either wheel, other than by hand. For the front, I don't remove the caliper at all. With the stock muffler, I can get the wheel off easily w/out removing. Never understood why folks think they need to pull it I am using the front stand with steering stem attachment, maybe that's it. Allows you to rotate the fork leg Pulling the rear fender is interesting, would be nice to leave that caliper in place | ||
| Hybridmomentspass |
I've never had to remove front fender for a front tire change. | ||
| Duphuckincati |
The reason for the fender removal is if you're going to use the "turn forks move wheel back" method is to be able to rotate the fork leg with the caliper so the caliper is out of the way to remove the wheel. Somewhere there's a thread showing this... | ||
| Rogue_biker |
I found it a whole lot easier to remove the front fender and remove the caliper. Four bolts for the fender, two bolts for the caliper. | ||
| Jdugger |
I have videos! and | ||
| Dannybuell |
Jdugger ~ Nice vids.. | ||
| Faceyman |
Jdugger...thanks for the videos, very helpful! | ||
| Froggy |
I found this method to not work on a completely stock bike. The passenger pegs obscure the fender bolts, then there is not enough clearance between the licence plate mount, passenger pegs, and belt guards easily get the wheel out. I personally find removing the two bolts on the rear caliper to be easier than removing and reinstalling fenders, passenger pegs, and licence plate/turn signal mount.
This is another one that seems to vary based on your bike. I've done it with one bike that has an aftermarket Keda RT-1 exhaust, but the stock muffler on my other bike gets in the way making it no easier than removing the caliper and doing it by the book. | ||
| Jdugger |
If you have the passenger pegs on the bike, drill a 1/4" hole just below and a bit to the front of the rider's left peg -- the correct location for the hole will be obvious to a person drilling it. This will allow you to easily insert a T30 through the hole and remove/install the upper belt guard mounting bolt. It's small and obscure enough to never be noticed. This is a great trick... | ||
| Froggy |
I heard you mentioned that in your video, it is on the list of things to try. |
