| Author | Message | ||
     Devondunit |
I am seeing a lot of buzz on here about stator problems, I just bought a 2009 1125r that has a 2010 motor in it (replaced on warranty), what's the problem with the stator and should I proactively replace it with a better one before it has a chance to go bad? | ||
| Duphuckincati |
Overheating. Check with EBR about the rotor mod that drills a hole to make use of an existing oil spray hole near the crankshaft end to spray oil to the stator windings for cooling. Do it now. (Message edited by duphuckincati on July 16, 2012) | ||
| Thor88 |
Looks like the best solution is to get the rotor mod from Ebr with the oiling jet before heat damages your current stator. http://www.erikbuellracing.com/store/parts-accesso ries/powertrain/2009-2010-charging-system-rotor-mo dification.html | ||
| Devondunit |
Thank you for the link. It says 250 for core charge, I assume it doesn't matter if I have had mine not go bad yet, should cost the same right? How many miles should I expect to get before it goes? How long does I take? I am planning a trip for August. - can I do it myself since its not blown yet? Thanks again for the help | ||
| Reepicheep |
The part they change isn't the part that fails, so no difference in the core charge. You should replace it ASAP, or you will be replacing the stator as well. | ||
| Froggy |
Impossible to say, some have had them fail in a few hundred miles, some have over 20 thousand miles without issue. Riding style appears to be a factor, the more traffic you sit in, and the more you ride at low RPMs, the more likely you are going to have an issue. Those that spend as much time as possible above 5000RPM rarely have failures. The EBR rotor mod linked above will fix the issue as it provides more cooling to the stator at all RPMs. Assuming your stator isn't damaged already, you will be good to go. | ||
| Devondunit |
Sounds like good advice, does anyone know if it could be done at home? | ||
| Hildstrom |
Removing and installing the rotor can be done at home. Drilling the precise oil-cooling jet cannot be done at home. Drilling air-cooling holes can be done at home, but more time and data are needed to quantify the performance of this modification. | ||
| Zac4mac |
The only real problem with DIY is the 300 ft-lb torque on the rotor nut. Simple Physics says a 1/2 breaker bar 3' long(cheater pipe included) and 100# at 3:00 tightens to 300 #. easy peasy Z DEEP - 32mm or easier to get, 1 1/4" socket (Message edited by zac4mac on July 18, 2012) (Message edited by zac4mac on July 18, 2012) | ||
| Redcrrider |
Isn't it possible to figure out how many more degrees to turn the nut past 150 ft lbs? Most torque wrenches go up that high. Who has 100 lbs to hang from a 3 foot breaker bar? Do you torque the nut to 150, then place 100 lbs on the breaker bar? | ||
| Zac4mac |
Just use fractional math to figure out how far out you hang yourself. Use a 1/2 ratchet instead of breaker bar to stay at 3:00. 3'/100# = 2'/150# = 4'/75# = 1'/300# | ||
| Duphuckincati |
I borrowed a 600 ft lb torque wrench from my friendly local 18 wheeler repair shop. Ask nice with beer/pizza/women. |
