| Author | Message | ||
     Xband |
My CR backfired as I started the motor after buying gas. After that my throttle seemed messed up -sluggish and now I have to give it a lot of throttle for a little go. Tps reset changes nothing. It's time for new spark plugs in any case. So I improvised a wheel wrench bit from nuts and a bolt with jb and a grinder. I just got done bracing my 2x6 rafter. Now I am trying to figure out where to put the 1900 lb rope to lift the rear. I have a manual is it in there? | ||
| Boogiman1981 |
Are you doing a valve adjustment too? If not why rotate? | ||
| Xband |
It is time to check the valves too, my first time doing it myself. But this is more like an autopsy, I am concerned about my timing. | ||
| Boogiman1981 |
okay well i strongly suggest not rotating the engine. i suggest looking towards the back of the manual where it has directions for basically splitting the bike in half. you'll leave the engine and swingarm on the ground and lift the rest off in one piece. gives you tons of room to work you wouldn't have otherwise and in my opinion from experience it's no slower and for me actually faster. | ||
| Anonymous |
OK, After a little manual reading I think you are right. i will take everything off | ||
| Xband |
Nuts, I endorse the last message. | ||
| Boogiman1981 |
Lol | ||
| Duphuckincati |
Here- http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/641161.html?1310232232 | ||
| 99buellx1 |
Depending on what you're working on, rotating can be quick and pretty simple. But you get a lot more room to work on top of engine stuff by lifting the frame. | ||
| Zac4mac |
Last time I checked the valves, I dropped a shim in the motor. 3 days with arthroscopic fiber optics and I found it. Next time, I'll pull the frame/tank.  |
