| Author | Message | ||
     Leechykyle |
Yep. That's about it. I installed the new clutch actuator this weekend. I bled the clutch several times. Now, no matter what I do, it won't shift. It will go into gear when I rock back and forth. But, it's like the clutch won't fully engage/disengage. I take the little cover off and I can see the cylinder moving outward as I squeeze the lever. But no matter what I do, when I start it, it won't go into gear. What did I do wrong? | ||
| Terrys1980 |
Did you make sure the holes lined up properly? Did you put too much brake fluid in? Did you torque the acorn nut properly? I did this upgrade a couple weeks ago and at first the clutch would grab too soon but after a couple laps around the block it was working flawlessly. | ||
| Leechykyle |
I got the holes lined up. I got the sleeve all the way in and lined up with that little notch. I took a bit of fluid out, but there shouldn't be too much in it. The top level is in the sightglass. It's a bit tough to torque the nut correctly using a wrench, but what's the spec on it? I know it was quite tight when I took it off, and just as tight the second time I unscrewed it. | ||
| Terrys1980 |
The fluid should be just above the lower line with the bike level and bars straight. The torque is only 10Nm or 124 in-lbs or 10.33 ft-lbs. One thing I used was a syringe to force air up, instead of bleed the air down. | ||
| Leechykyle |
Alright. Correct amount of fluid and correct torque spec. Still nothing. The lever pull is pretty stiff. Almost feels and looks as if the cylinder isn't moving far enough out to disengage the clutch. | ||
| Terrys1980 |
The only other thing would be air trapped. | ||
| Nuts4mc |
with the puck off...can you see the piston move back and forth - it doesn't need much (.050"-.100") to disengage the clutch....if you can't see it move - back to pump pump hold- as you got air in the system. the clutch pull rod can become disengaged ( not likely as the big rubber diaphragm pretty much centers the rod in the clutch mechanism) but if it did - I doubt you would be able to get the nut started - the rod would be "In" too deep. sometimes the Oring on the spherical nut can "bind" and cause a false torque reading when you tighten the nut - Try this...you may need someone to hold the piston in ( there is spring behind it ...remember?) take off the nut and remove the O ring - put the nut back on without the oring and see if it fixes the problem...if it does - put the Oring back on the nut but FIRST lube up the O-ring so it will allow the nut to tighten all the way. good luck | ||
| Leechykyle |
The piston did move back and forth. Knowing it only moves a little bit is a relief. I'll take it apart again next weekend and see if it might be the clutch pull rod and check if the oring might be binding. Sadly, I'm away from it during the week, working out of town. Thankfully it isn't a primary means of transportation. It's just mighty frustrating. | ||
| Father_of_an_era |
Double check that everything is lubed and double check the clip and ensure that it is in tightly and securely. Once I tightened the spherical nut I backed it off one half turn. Replaced the fluid because it gets dirty pretty quick after changing the actuator. Also, when you check the clip, make sure there is nothing blocking the fluid holes. That worked for me. After I installed the EBR actuator, my bike wouldn't engage gears and felt like the knuckles were just grinding the surface of each other. Once I did the steps above, it all worked flawlessly. Good luck! | ||
| Leechykyle |
I'm stumped. I took it all apart again to make sure all the fluid ports were open and the ring was seated. They are. I lubed everything up nice and put it back together and torqued it to spec. The piston moves in the cylinder and I have plenty of pressure in the lever. Still nothing. I can shift it into first by rocking it, even with the bike started. It will move back and forth and stop, like it's in gear (unlike neutral, where it will roll freely), but it won't move. Even with the clutch pulled with it in gear, it won't roll freely. Could this problem somehow be deeper than the clutch? That's all I've messed with... | ||
| Leechykyle |
Well, it's working. Before I tore it apart for the third time, I tried starting it in gear with the clutch pulled. It lurched forward and started. Then I messed with it while running, into first and back to neutral. I rocked it a few times and let the clutch go, and it stalled. I fired it up again and it works. What it looks like is the piston moved farther into the cylinder, finally engaging the clutch. I don't know what was making it stick too far out, but now it works. | ||
| Father_of_an_era |
Do you have aftermarket levers? I read on here that some of the aftermarket levers may not allow the actuator to move enough to allow the gears to fully engage. Just an FYI if problems arise again. Hope it continues to work as it should. |
