| Author | Message | ||
     Pmjolly |
I plan on going into the service manual for research, but figured I'd ask here first. My 2008 1125R has developed a problem idling. It runs fine while riding. It's not down on power, or stumbling anywhere in the powerband. It's just at idle that it acts up. I get no codes or CEL. I have had the same configuration since 2009. EBR ECM, K&N filter, Jardine exhaust. After I come to a stop at a light, it will be idling fine at first, then progressively get slower and slower until it stalls. I find myself watching the tach, and giving it a little gas to keep it running. I have probably 13,500 miles on the clock. I did my own valve adjustment earlier this year. It ran fine at the Dragon V gathering in April. I don't know where to start. Thanks in advance! | ||
| Pmjolly |
Actually, I'll probably start with a throttle reset. | ||
| Pmjolly |
I guess the real reason I was posting is I did not understand how something could be so wrong as to stall the engine, but throw no codes. Hmmmmmmmmmm. | ||
| Froggy |
Clean out the IAC valve | ||
| Rpm4x4 |
I had a poor tank of fuel do that. I topped off with new fuel and everything went back to normal. If not that the first place Id look would be the IAC | ||
| Boogiman1981 |
only time you're going to get a code is if a sensor dies or thinks it is seeing something outside of it's parameters. codes are a useful diagnostic aid but that is all. stalling at idle could be bad fuel easily. could be the IAC could be TPS could be carbon build up due to short use times and bad/old fuel. | ||
| Pmjolly |
Thanks, everyone. I will reset the throttle, check and clean the IAC, and go for a ride next weekend. I never ride mine for really short rides. I only take it out when I have plenty of time. I don't commute on it. Last Sunday, I put 300 miles on the clock. I ran gas from different stations. It ran fine all day, until I stopped at a light near home. It died while idling. I will chime in with what I find next weekend. | ||
| Crabby |
On the TPS reset, do you have to do it more than once? I reset mine and still am not getting 100% throttle | ||
| Froggy |
Crabby, you either did not do it right, or you have an issue like the throttle cables getting stuck on the linkage. You should see in diagnostic mode the throttle go from 2%-100% nice and smooth. | ||
| Crabby |
Nope. Guess im dragging it back to HD. I dont have time to sit around in the garage hacking it up when its a 2 hour truck ride one way to get HD to work on the bike. Luckly I left it up there at my brothers house. | ||
| Advanced66 |
Hello everyone, I have a problem that maybe one of you might be able to help with. My '08 has an issue with stalling out. I have approx 25,000 miles on her and last few hundred miles she's been stalling out after getting on throttle and after restarting when warm. Have tried switching gas, changed plugs, air filter, Manuel cleaning of plugs. Runs well other wise, also starts up again, but I have to baby throttle and rev hard to clear. Any thoughts ? | ||
| Advanced66 |
Almost forgot, venting is good as well. | ||
| Nuts4mc |
how old is the battery? are the battery connections tight? check your grounds (10mm hex nut by the swing arm pivot) Ignition switch? - the wires have been known to disconnect from the switch body - does it die if the bars are turned one way or the other? Connection to the ECM ( big plug with large amount of wires under left side radiator fairing ( shifter side) - all the wires "plugged in" ? how "hot" does it run - coolant level OK? - I would hate to think that the coils are overheating/worn out after only 25K miles - usually bad coils lead to a hi rpm/high load mis-fire...might want to try new coils... good luck (Message edited by nuts4mc on July 06, 2012) | ||
| Advanced66 |
Actually, battery is new, connections are good, been happening during normal heat temps,( 17l2- 198 ) and ad for ignition switch, already had and corrected that issue. Hadn't thought about coils though. If it is coils, would they have event then clear up with a minute of throttling ? Here is typical scenero, out on ride, bikes running great, purring , I suddenly grab a handful of throttle, crisp clean response, then I deaccelerate, all,s well until I start to roll on throttle, starts cutting out like too much or not enough air or fuel. Starts right back up, idles fine, I baby throttle until I can get some good revs outta her thematic she's fine . Just seems to happen during each ride segment , one time.} | ||
| Nuts4mc |
Coils usually fail after a "heat" event ( long HI RPM run/ or heavy load like pulling a trailer) or when starting...the starter pulls all the current and voltage to the starter motor and leave nothing for the coil... (that's why old cars had ballast resistors...they would fire the plugs on less than 12volts and once started the resistor would "manage" the excess (normal) 12 volts sounds like the ECU is "learning" all over again ( and again)...or the TPS ( Throttle position sensor) isn't working correctly...does the Inst Panel show the % open? ( 2% to 100%) when you do a TPS reset? Wild guess - packing (if it has any) in the Jardine has come loose and plugs up the exhaust...it unplugs/blows out and you have throttle again. | ||
| Advanced66 |
Thanks, you've given a couple of leads to check out.never thought about jardine packing, I get back tomorrow and let you know. | ||
| Advanced66 |
Well, after some suggestions, and some serious pondering, I believe I have more questions than answers. First, I've inspected jardine, seems to be ok, sounds great , so now thinking about tps, I have to confess, don't know alot about howfunctions, however, seems like a lot of people have problems having this reset at dealer. And due to ignorance and aloofness at my dealer, they are not allowed to service her unless its an emergency situation. Can tps temporary fail, and if so, does reset help, or should I replace altogether ? is there a self check ? I haven't opened her up, but I assume there's no fuel filter as I can't find any reference to one. Had her on dyno last month, not for that reason, but for dyno shoot-out , she had 2 runs, ran great, no issues, pull 153 hp with nitrous, 128 HP without. Driving me nuts! | ||
| Nuts4mc |
I've been working and riding these things for a long time...now you know where my "handle" came from... TPS procedure- from at the bottom of the forum - new owner tips and tricks http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/561521.html?1285617127 another wild guess - I know you have the EEEbr ECM - and it bypasses the 'noid's operation...but the 'noid does have linkage connected to the throttle shafts...maybe that linkage is causing an issue??? here is another link to the removal of the noid...again from the bottom of the forum... http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/490767.html | ||
| Advanced66 |
Thanks, I'll look into ,let you know | ||
| Pmjolly |
Well, my 1125 is idling better since I sprayed B12 Chemtool down the IAC tube, and into the other side of the IAC through the little holes inside of the throttle bodies. The only downside is I discolored my frame's powder coating when B12 Chemtool splashed down the side. |
