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Buell Forum » 1125R Superbike Board » Archive through July 08, 2012 » No Clutch!! WTF?? « Previous Next »

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Hogluvr
Posted on Thursday, June 28, 2012 - 12:53 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Pushed my bike out of the garage this morning, started it up, let it warm up, got on and went to put it in gear, clutch lever was as limp as a wet noodle. Anybody have an idea what's going on? Bike only has 1500 miles on it, it ran fine the other day...
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Froggy
Posted on Thursday, June 28, 2012 - 01:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Pop the puck off the clutch cover, it sounds like you have the clutch weep.
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Georgehitch17
Posted on Thursday, June 28, 2012 - 01:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Did you check for fluid in the reservoir? Hows the clutch cover look? covered in fluid? My best guess the clutch slave cylinder is shot! Great reason to upgrade to the Oberon model. The same thing happened to mine. The Oberon model is worth buying even if your OEM isn't broken!
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Staggie
Posted on Thursday, June 28, 2012 - 01:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Same thing happened to mine at about the same amount of mileage. Checked the reservoir and it was empty. Filled it up, tested. Worked great for a day or two and back to the no resistance. Purchased the EBR Clutch actuator and been fine for 4K miles.
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Jbarron
Posted on Thursday, June 28, 2012 - 02:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Mines been slowly leaking internally, no puck leak. Check fluid level and bleed.
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Kevmean
Posted on Friday, June 29, 2012 - 07:31 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Like george says ...a great reason to upgrade to the Oberon replacement. It really is a well engineered replacement and far superior in it's design to the original and dare i say the EBR option.
Improves clutch feel being lighter and moves clutch bite slightly nearer the bars..warrantied and with all spare seals etc available
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Hogluvr
Posted on Friday, June 29, 2012 - 12:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I've heard of the clutch weep but never looked into what it was all about. Could someone explain to me what the deal is?
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Xodot
Posted on Friday, June 29, 2012 - 12:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

try the search feature - tons of info in there - pictures, step by step, symptoms etc... to bring you up to speed on this easy to fix topic
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Nuts4mc
Posted on Friday, June 29, 2012 - 01:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

1) early design (2008) had a mis match in materials - the piston was hard the cylinder was soft - the hard piston digs into the cylinder... the seals get fouled by metal "shavings" and they leak...
2) retro fit by HD (warrentee repair ( Rev "B" not to be confused with the the clutch cover (Big Puck)repair)- the material mis match gets addressed - the cylinder is hard the piston is soft - this seems to work OK - but the seal design stays the same
3) EeeBr designs a new fix - like the HD retro fit - but with a new seal (double Orings - a proven classic application) design - the piston is Stainless the cylinder is hard anodized
4) a German firm designs a fix (Oberon) - it's very German - well designed and manufactured - and costly...
bottom line the design is flawed the L/D ( Length over Diameter) is not very good...kinda like building a coat rack with 1" dowels stuck in 1/4" thick piece of wood and hanging a heavy coat on it ( the dowels rock in the bore and eventually fall out)....the Rotax designers may have been constrained by a desired "engine width" by HD/Buell - they ( Rotax) have other clutch activation problems in other brands (Aprilia)
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Crowley
Posted on Friday, June 29, 2012 - 02:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I know nothing of the German cylinder so can't comment on that, but I'd like to correct your mistake. Oberon is British. This is fact, since I tested the prototype. Not only is the clutch lighter, it's been completely reliable.
Oberon manufacture quality slave cylinders for many other bikes too. All my Ducatis have had one fitted.
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Nuts4mc
Posted on Friday, June 29, 2012 - 02:49 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Crowley - thnx for the correction - too bad the site doesn't have a "section" for clutch weep- it would be easier for the new guys
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Albert666
Posted on Saturday, June 30, 2012 - 04:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

fitted my oberon today
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Jdugger
Posted on Saturday, June 30, 2012 - 07:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Oberon++

Running one here.
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Father_of_an_era
Posted on Saturday, June 30, 2012 - 11:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

EBR clutch actuator here. After a ton of info from the group here, it seems to work flawlessly! It is a less expensive alternative to the Oberon and I don't think anyone has said anything bad about it. Jut keep in mind that when you do change your existing actuator, you will probably have to change the fluid after 20 - 40 miles of riding. It gets dirty pretty fast right after the change. After that though, it is all good.
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Albert666
Posted on Sunday, July 01, 2012 - 09:48 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

i think for the sake of argument and due to import tax, postage etc, most of us in uk and europe will probably end up with oberon and you guys in usa will end up with ebr, and we'll all be happy with a better working bike
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Hogluvr
Posted on Sunday, July 01, 2012 - 12:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks for all the info guys, appreciate it!!
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