| Author | Message | ||
     Tbowdre |
Anyone ever figure out why my bike for 15,000 miles says "system voltage" when it turns over? I think it started after my first stator fried, about 3000 miles. Currently all components of the charging system have been replaced and it has been great for about 6000 miles. Compufire R/R, Custom Rewind Stator, New Battery Plus OEM replacement type battery. Yet every time I start the bike the IC goes black, "system voltage" and it fires right up... explodes to life is more like when cold... after like a 1/2 a crank Runs awesome, no charging issues at all, no drivability issues, when hot still starts after like 1 or 2 cranks. But, same message. After being on a battery charger all night with the message "FULL" it will still say "system voltage" My guess is it's the battery has to low a rating? 200CCA, 12V, 12AH Batteries Plus model XTAX14L-BS I've posted about this before and other people have seen this once or twice so i just shrugged it. But right now both of my bikes are in great shape and my mind is wandering. I need to fix something. thoughts? Thanks, todd | ||
| Sparky |
I'd put a voltmeter on the battery terminals before and while the bike is running to determine if DC volts in nominal. Then switch the meter to AC volts to see if the voltage regulator might be putting out spikes which could be causing the system voltage message. Has it burned out any headlights after getting all the parts replaced? | ||
| 1125rcya |
while it says System Voltage;keep an eye on your head lights to make sure they are not pulsating and make sure your tail/brake light works. I had the same issue except it would happen out of the blue while riding. dangerous Oh ya mine also had a humm when the system voltage kicked on. tit was a bad VR.. (Message edited by 1125rcya on June 13, 2012) (Message edited by 1125rcya on June 13, 2012) | ||
| Tbowdre |
Never happens when riding. I ve lost a couple of R/R so I know that drill. | ||
| Tbowdre |
Always 13.5-14.4 on IC volt meter, I ll check the battery volts with a multimeter when starting and see what it does | ||
| Jdugger |
Normal. During starting the current demand causes voltage drop and the cluster goes into a power saving mode temporarily. I see it all the time on my race bike, only when starting it, as you describe. | ||
| Hybridmomentspass |
happens on mine too almost every single time, 18k miles I've come to ignore it | ||
| Bob_thompson |
Here is another opinion FWIW; with my #292 2008 1125R, with "so called" poor charging system, keeping my bike on a trickle charger all week and only riding the weekends I have never had a charging problem or low voltage reading and its still on the original battery. BUT I ride it like it was intended, a sport bike, not a commuter. I also very seldom get stuck in heavy commuter traffic and the "so called" heating has also never been a problem even in 100 degree temps. I have though, in all honesty, wrapped the headers and insulated the frame myself. Charging system is absolutely stock. Still lovin' it. Bob | ||
| Timebandit |
Had similar problems with my 94 and 95 oilhead boxers. CPU initialization for the ABS system is dependent upon a sampling of a normal nominal battery voltage. The CPU would attempt to boot the ABS system immediately upon ignition-on cranking/firing. The amount of current drawn to start the 1100 twin was enough that battery voltages sagged during startup -- enough that the ABS system always had initialization errors thinking that there was a system voltage problem. The result was that the ABS system never initialized, it defaulted to non-ABS and the dash continually flashed an annoying set of red wig-wag warning lights that would never go off because ABS initialization had failed. The problem was caused by the ABS computer reporting a system voltage that was "too low" during it's initialization, even though it was back to normal as soon as the bike had started running. The band-aid cure for the problem was to keep the bike on a tender. Sometimes that helped. If not, people would perform a rolling restart once the bike had been running long enough to replete the battery. Then the ABS computer would boot OK. The final cure involved putting the ABS computer's 12V feed on a time-delay relay so that it would not initialize until the bike had been running for a few seconds. Problem solved. Sounds like a very similar issue to what you're describing -- the sagging voltage during the starter draw is triggering a harmless display indicator. |
